Adding weight to a tractor with a twist.

[wushaw]

I had 171lbs on the ft. and need to add more weight to my little 15hp Mitsubishi so I went to my metal place and found a small pallet of lead and the perfect container to put it in. A 4" square 1/4" wall tube almost 33" long.
I capped off one end of the tube and used my torch to melt the lead into the tube ( I used a fan to keep the fumes away) I came out with 183lbs of weight.
I capped off that end after it cooled the next day and layed it on top of the RR track I already have on there and welded it to the track, I used my stick welder 6011 rods and put down three beads on each side.

I think it turned out pretty good and now have 354lbs to help with my 400lb tiller or whatever else I hook up to it.

I spent $43.00 for the lead and tube, I don't know what real tractor weights cost but I figure I got out pretty cheap and the weight I already had on there didn't cost anything.

Two of the pictures is what I had left over from the pallet of lead.

The picture of the welding clamp is one of them magnetic switch types that is just the cats meow for when you don't have a thin place to attach your ground clamp.

 

[Grrrr]

Looks pretty good, using the lead was a good idea.

You could box in the ends of the I beam to make it look more factory with some metal plate.

 

[GuglioLS]

Nice compact way to add weight. Did you just hold the lead scrap in one hand then torch the other so that the lead dripped into the 4" tube?

Did the extra ballast help after you installed the tiller?

Larry

 

[wushaw]

Nice compact way to add weight. Did you just hold the lead scrap in one hand then torch the other so that the lead dripped into the 4" tube?

Did the extra ballast help after you installed the tiller?

Larry

Yup, lead in one hand & torch in the other.
I haven't tried the tiller yet but I can feel the extra weight is gonna do the trick.

 

[JRP]

While you are fixing it up, add some chain hooks. 3/9" hooks work for 1/4" to 3/8 chain and are $5 a pair at harbor freight.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Did you design this weight so that it can come off quick? I would be worried that this much weight on this size tractor might affect the front axle and cause your problems.

 

[diyDave]

Would you like a mower deck for your tractor? I have one in excellent condition for sale in MD. P.M. me for details.

 

[wushaw]

JRP; I don't want chain hooks on this little thing, If I need to really pull some dead weight I use my L2800 or Jeep

Robert_in_NY; Four bolts hold it to the frame and the ft. tires are rated at 770lbs each so I figure that the axle should be up to snuff to hold that and the rest of the ft. of the tractor.

diyDave; I use a 42" bush hog with this one and my ZTRs for everything else...thanks though

 

[diyDave]

Wushaw - I should have looked before I posted, shipping 2-300 lbs to Texas from Md would eat a hole in your pocket, for sure! Does your tractor have the adapter kit that changer the direction of the PTO to the standard size and rotation? If it does, could you post a picture of that little gem?

 

[wushaw]

Wushaw - I should have looked before I posted, shipping 2-300 lbs to Texas from Md would eat a hole in your pocket, for sure! Does your tractor have the adapter kit that changer the direction of the PTO to the standard size and rotation? If it does, could you post a picture of that little gem?

It is a built for U.S. tractor, not a grey unit, built in late 80's is my guess. The PTO rotates the correct way and the PTO shaft is standard..... so no adapters required

 

[diyDave]

Wushaw- mine is a built for the U.S. tractor, too, but it and lots of others of the same model, Does not have the standard pto. I still would like to see the pto end of your tractor, if you get the chance to get a picture of it! Thanks, Dave

 

[wushaw]

Ok I will get ya pic in the morning. I thought if it was built for U.S. then it wouldn't need any adapters, turn the U.S. standard way and would come with a PTO cover.

 

[wushaw]

Here is the Picts Dave

 

[diyDave]

Thanks, Wushaw. That's the angle that I wanted to see. Mine has a metric shaft with a fine spline, about 1" in diameter, between the bottom 2 bolts of the gearcase. If you ever kill the tractor, that gearbox is worth about 600 bucks, if you can find them! Thanks, Dave

 

[wushaw]

Your welcome

With a little over 300hrs on the clock I hope it will be many years before I kill it.

 

[lake rat]

Wushaw,

Thanks a million! your solution looks GREAT! -Now I'm lookin' 4 lead. Was considering a standard class 3 hitch receiver to put a 5' w x 2' d standard cargo carrier on the FE, but you've got me rethinkin it. My solution would be portable 4 sure, but cumberson to say the least. Since my intent is to work with all rear (3 pt.) attachments, something like your FE weight would seem almost never to come off. Heck, I could still weld the receiver on your design (above or below) getting what I'm after for counter weight as well as the towing hauler utility, couldn't I?

Questions:
1. Would the front weight you added tip me forward without rear attachments? (for example were I to hook a 1 ton gross loaded weight trailer to my front end for spotting around the "yard?" (i.e., 300+ front end weight, 1135# tractor and 400+ #s on the back)
2. What size/specs of bolts did you use x4 to attach your weight?
3. Got an oxy/acetylene torch kit and a light duty flux core welder (with little to no experience welding.) My welder lays a 1/8" max. bead, which I can pull off. Can I still build your solution? Will it hold together?
4. Where would you look for lead?
5. If you were building it from scratch, without the prior rail (I-beam) would you have welded the I beam and filled the void with lead to keep the center of gravity lower?

(Not second guessing, just tryin to save a few steps and maybe a roll over before I start tearin' the **** outta things 'round here. It's awful hilly.)

Your reply sure raised interest AND response(s). Exactly what I need to move my projects forward. Thanks again to you and all the others for your thoughtful advice.

TBN is GREAT!! -Lake Rat

 

[wushaw]

Wushaw,

Thanks a million! your solution looks GREAT! -Now I'm lookin' 4 lead. Was considering a standard class 3 hitch receiver to put a 5' w x 2' d standard cargo carrier on the FE, but you've got me rethinkin it. My solution would be portable 4 sure, but cumberson to say the least. Since my intent is to work with all rear (3 pt.) attachments, something like your FE weight would seem almost never to come off. Heck, I could still weld the receiver on your design (above or below) getting what I'm after for counter weight as well as the towing hauler utility, couldn't I?

Questions:
1. Would the front weight you added tip me forward without rear attachments? (for example were I to hook a 1 ton gross loaded weight trailer to my front end for spotting around the "yard?" (i.e., 300+ front end weight, 1135# tractor and 400+ #s on the back)
2. What size/specs of bolts did you use x4 to attach your weight?
3. Got an oxy/acetylene torch kit and a light duty flux core welder (with little to no experience welding.) My welder lays a 1/8" max. bead, which I can pull off. Can I still build your solution? Will it hold together?
4. Where would you look for lead?
5. If you were building it from scratch, without the prior rail (I-beam) would you have welded the I beam and filled the void with lead to keep the center of gravity lower?

(Not second guessing, just tryin to save a few steps and maybe a roll over before I start tearin' the **** outta things 'round here. It's awful hilly.)

Your reply sure raised interest AND response(s). Exactly what I need to move my projects forward. Thanks again to you and all the others for your thoughtful advice.

TBN is GREAT!! -Lake Rat

If I were to do it again straight from scratch I would do the lead in tube thing since it is heavier and cheaper than anything else.
I got the lead from my local steel guy, he had a small pallet of it.
I used either 7/16 or 1/2" grade 5 or 8 (can't remember) bolts 4ea to the existing frame holes.
There is no problem what so ever of it being ft. heavy without weight on the rear. I do have the rears filled, I filled them after the weight increase just to add more weight to the tractor.

Your only problem with having a ft. hitch for moving trailers is axle and/or tire capacity, just look at them before attempting it, I move my 20' (2100lb) car hauler into and out of its parking spot with 3pt hitch and I have an incline to go down or up and the tractor is very stable either way.

Your small flux core welder should do just fine, I used my stick just cause I don't use it that often and just wanted to play otherwise I use my MM175 most of the time.

One word of advise is molten lead is hot, gear up just like your gonna do some welding except you don't need a welding helmet just a clear face shield and a fan blowing away the fumes.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
One word of advise is molten lead is hot, gear up just like your gonna do some welding except you don't need a welding helmet just a clear face shield and a fan blowing away the fumes.

Also if you are using "scrap" lead be wary of "air bubbles" in it. My dad used to make lead diver belts, lead sinkers etc. 1 little pocket of air can make a big splatter. 1 splatter on your skin is a 3rd degree burn mark.

 

[zman007007]

also when melting lead, keep away any type of water into the molten lead including sweat. it will make it blow out of the container it is in, and possibly on to you.

 

[GATC35]

I did something very similar for my Kubota M5400. I use a dual spindle 8 ft bush hog on it that causes the front end of the tractor to get really light. Instead of buying the expensive weights I made one the same way you did. I didn't use lead, mine is full of scrap metal and concrete. I decided to make a bumper/bull bar, counter weight and trailer mover all in one. It comes in right at 450 lbs. I have about $100.00 invested in it.