Adding weight to a tractor with a twist.

diyDave · Oct 9, 2007

Wushaw- mine is a built for the U.S. tractor, too, but it and lots of others of the same model, Does not have the standard pto. I still would like to see the pto end of your tractor, if you get the chance to get a picture of it! Thanks, Dave

wushaw · Oct 9, 2007

Ok I will get ya pic in the morning. I thought if it was built for U.S. then it wouldn't need any adapters, turn the U.S. standard way and would come with a PTO cover.

wushaw · Oct 10, 2007

Here is the Picts Dave

diyDave · Oct 10, 2007

Thanks, Wushaw. That's the angle that I wanted to see. Mine has a metric shaft with a fine spline, about 1" in diameter, between the bottom 2 bolts of the gearcase. If you ever kill the tractor, that gearbox is worth about 600 bucks, if you can find them! Thanks, Dave

wushaw · Oct 10, 2007

Your welcome

With a little over 300hrs on the clock I hope it will be many years before I kill it.

lake rat · Jul 22, 2009

Wushaw,

Thanks a million! your solution looks GREAT! -Now I'm lookin' 4 lead. Was considering a standard class 3 hitch receiver to put a 5' w x 2' d standard cargo carrier on the FE, but you've got me rethinkin it. My solution would be portable 4 sure, but cumberson to say the least. Since my intent is to work with all rear (3 pt.) attachments, something like your FE weight would seem almost never to come off. Heck, I could still weld the receiver on your design (above or below) getting what I'm after for counter weight as well as the towing hauler utility, couldn't I?

Questions:
1. Would the front weight you added tip me forward without rear attachments? (for example were I to hook a 1 ton gross loaded weight trailer to my front end for spotting around the "yard?" (i.e., 300+ front end weight, 1135# tractor and 400+ #s on the back)
2. What size/specs of bolts did you use x4 to attach your weight?
3. Got an oxy/acetylene torch kit and a light duty flux core welder (with little to no experience welding.) My welder lays a 1/8" max. bead, which I can pull off. Can I still build your solution? Will it hold together?
4. Where would you look for lead?
5. If you were building it from scratch, without the prior rail (I-beam) would you have welded the I beam and filled the void with lead to keep the center of gravity lower?

(Not second guessing, just tryin to save a few steps and maybe a roll over before I start tearin' the **** outta things 'round here. It's awful hilly.)

Your reply sure raised interest AND response(s). Exactly what I need to move my projects forward. Thanks again to you and all the others for your thoughtful advice.

TBN is GREAT!! -Lake Rat

wushaw · Jul 22, 2009

lake rat said:
Wushaw,

Thanks a million! your solution looks GREAT! -Now I'm lookin' 4 lead. Was considering a standard class 3 hitch receiver to put a 5' w x 2' d standard cargo carrier on the FE, but you've got me rethinkin it. My solution would be portable 4 sure, but cumberson to say the least. Since my intent is to work with all rear (3 pt.) attachments, something like your FE weight would seem almost never to come off. Heck, I could still weld the receiver on your design (above or below) getting what I'm after for counter weight as well as the towing hauler utility, couldn't I?

Questions:
1. Would the front weight you added tip me forward without rear attachments? (for example were I to hook a 1 ton gross loaded weight trailer to my front end for spotting around the "yard?" (i.e., 300+ front end weight, 1135# tractor and 400+ #s on the back)
2. What size/specs of bolts did you use x4 to attach your weight?
3. Got an oxy/acetylene torch kit and a light duty flux core welder (with little to no experience welding.) My welder lays a 1/8" max. bead, which I can pull off. Can I still build your solution? Will it hold together?
4. Where would you look for lead?
5. If you were building it from scratch, without the prior rail (I-beam) would you have welded the I beam and filled the void with lead to keep the center of gravity lower?

(Not second guessing, just tryin to save a few steps and maybe a roll over before I start tearin' the **** outta things 'round here. It's awful hilly.)

Your reply sure raised interest AND response(s). Exactly what I need to move my projects forward. Thanks again to you and all the others for your thoughtful advice.

TBN is GREAT!! -Lake Rat

If I were to do it again straight from scratch I would do the lead in tube thing since it is heavier and cheaper than anything else.
I got the lead from my local steel guy, he had a small pallet of it.
I used either 7/16 or 1/2" grade 5 or 8 (can't remember) bolts 4ea to the existing frame holes.
There is no problem what so ever of it being ft. heavy without weight on the rear. I do have the rears filled, I filled them after the weight increase just to add more weight to the tractor.

Your only problem with having a ft. hitch for moving trailers is axle and/or tire capacity, just look at them before attempting it, I move my 20' (2100lb) car hauler into and out of its parking spot with 3pt hitch and I have an incline to go down or up and the tractor is very stable either way.

Your small flux core welder should do just fine, I used my stick just cause I don't use it that often and just wanted to play otherwise I use my MM175 most of the time.

One word of advise is molten lead is hot, gear up just like your gonna do some welding except you don't need a welding helmet just a clear face shield and a fan blowing away the fumes.

newbury · Jul 23, 2009

wushaw said:
<snip>
One word of advise is molten lead is hot, gear up just like your gonna do some welding except you don't need a welding helmet just a clear face shield and a fan blowing away the fumes.

Also if you are using "scrap" lead be wary of "air bubbles" in it. My dad used to make lead diver belts, lead sinkers etc. 1 little pocket of air can make a big splatter. 1 splatter on your skin is a 3rd degree burn mark.

zman007007 · Jul 24, 2009

also when melting lead, keep away any type of water into the molten lead including sweat. it will make it blow out of the container it is in, and possibly on to you.

GATC35 · Jul 27, 2009

I did something very similar for my Kubota M5400. I use a dual spindle 8 ft bush hog on it that causes the front end of the tractor to get really light. Instead of buying the expensive weights I made one the same way you did. I didn't use lead, mine is full of scrap metal and concrete. I decided to make a bumper/bull bar, counter weight and trailer mover all in one. It comes in right at 450 lbs. I have about $100.00 invested in it.