Thoughts on 200 hour maintenance.

[The Haymaker]

The proper way to keep from losing oil is the same as my TZ25 was. The proper method is demonstrated at the 6 minute mark of this video.

Even in the diluted form of it's intended purpose, coolant/antifreeze is indeed flammable under the right conditions. Anyone on the FD who has been to a car fire started by a coolant line exploding on a redhot manifold has seen the results. If the heat source is hot enough and has a thermal mass to sustain the heat required to evaporate the water, the glycol will burn.

Next ime you have a bonfire, throw a gallon jug of used antifreeze in there at the peak moment, like when all 20 pallets are burning good (I like small bonfires) and you'll see the stuff doesn't care if there is water or not.

Under normal circumstances, I don't believe the flammability will ever be an issue. Under a catastrophic system failure? Yes.

 

[N80]

Thanks. My work computer doesn't allow me to access YouTube but I'll check it out when I get home. Of course, the next time I need to change the filter it will also be time to replace fluid so I won't need to do this again until 600 hours. At my current level of usage, that will be about 7-8 years from now.

 

[Patches]

That makes sense. I don't know where the vacuum vent is, but I have a parts and shop manual so I could find it. How would you apply vacuum? Or does it just need to be blocked? It would have been nice if the manual had mentioned this trick.

The sump is too large for a "block" to be very effective. I've used a shop vac, being sure the connection to the vent is not air tight(read a small air leak)so as to prevent the possibility of actually sucking some of the fluid through the vent system into the vacuum. I doubt you would be able to this, but no sense in taking a chance; could be messy

 

[scott_vt]

Good Mornin George,
Is there anyting in your manual about the changing out the oil in your injector pump ? I remember doing that at some point in time.

Also my manual suggests changing out the gear lube in the front axle, center, and both left and right sides, all seperate resevoirs. I think my manual suggests every 200 hrs on that change.

Just some ramblings with out my manual at my fingertips...

Also adjusted the two stage clutch... a bit of a pain

 

[N80]

Good Mornin George,
Is there anyting in your manual about the changing out the oil in your injector pump ? I remember doing that at some point in time.

No, it doesn't say anything about that anywhere. Wonder how it gets lubed? Any chance it just uses the egine oil?

Also my manual suggests changing out the gear lube in the front axle, center, and both left and right sides, all seperate resevoirs. I think my manual suggests every 200 hrs on that change.

On my tractor the front axle is separate from the tranny/hydraulic fluid but the tranny/hydraulic fluid is all one system. I did not notice about the front end. Will have to check the manual again. Fortunately that's a very easy change.

 

[Soundguy]

park in a ditch or on a ramp so that the hyd filter is up or higher.. that should help with the gush. My nh 7610s has a hyd filter the size of a gallon paint can.. no joke...

as for the air filter... I have an inner and an outter.. I replace the outter atleast yearly.. and inner when it shows signs of dirt.. or every 2 years.

as for repalcing the hoses.. I think that's a kubota thing.. I believe I remember reading that they like having their ps hoses replaced quite often as well!

soundguy

 

[Egon]

.) Manual says to be very careful with radiator fluid (ethylene glycol) because it is highly flammable.

It is highly toxic though.
It's sweet and some animals/birds may like it. Results in an ugly death. No antidote.

Ethylene glycol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Soundguy]

depends on your machine.

some are fuel lubed.. some share engine oil.. and some have their own sump.

for instance.. my NH 7610s (delphi) and ford 5000 (CAV) both with rotary pumps are fuel lubed.. my older 3000 with an inline sims pump has it's own oil sump and needs to hae it's oil change at the same time the crankcase oil is changed..

soundguy

No, it doesn't say anything about that anywhere. Wonder how it gets lubed? Any chance it just uses the egine oil?



On my tractor the front axle is separate from the tranny/hydraulic fluid but the tranny/hydraulic fluid is all one system. I did not notice about the front end. Will have to check the manual again. Fortunately that's a very easy change.

 

[N80]

It is highly toxic though.
It's sweet and some animals/birds may like it.

Its good on pancakes.

Results in an ugly death.

And blindness.....but not necessarily in that order.

No antidote.

Actually, regular old alcohol (ethanol) is preferentially metabolized over ethelyne glycol and it is the metabolites of the ethelyne glycol that cause much of the toxicity. So you can actually treat an ethelyne glycol ingestion with vodka.

 

[N80]

park in a ditch or on a ramp so that the hyd filter is up or higher..

Doh! That's the kind of thing a reasonably intelligent adult like myself should have thought of on my own. Sometime the simplest soultions are the hardest to think of on the spot.

Of course, the main problem was trusting the kid behind the parts counter at the Kubota place. I should have had more sense than that too.

as for repalcing the hoses.. I think that's a kubota thing.. I believe I remember reading that they like having their ps hoses replaced quite often as well!

soundguy

Yep, those too. Aint gonna happen, not every two years anyway.