I'd put a pressure treated board against the barn. I wouldn't leave a space as it will fill with dirt anyway, defeating the purpose. That board and the gravel will remain fairly dry anyway since it is up against the structure and protected from most rains. You could skip the side boards and taper the gravel down to each side, beyond the apron width. 1' height is a little high for that but not too bad. The tapered gravel sides do make it easier to angle onto the apron without catching the side board out towards the ends.
How to repair a concrete apron?
- Thread starter IslandTractor
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inmaestro
New member
Bet you didn't expect so much advice...most all of it very good! For my two cents, don't try to repair the concrete ramp. As you note, it is moving and that means the base under it has failed. Repairs would likely fail soon.
My vote is use that great tractor of yours to tear it out. Good news is the suggestion to reuse the broken concrete in the repair is right on. A stable base is the most important part of a concrete repair. If you got that route, excavate enough soil to be sure you are on solid ground (no topsoil, roots, organic materials. Then replace the broken concrete and enough sand or gravel and compact the base leaving about 4-6" for the new concrete. Use rebar or 6/6/10 welded wire mesh to reinforce the new ramp. For the size you need, the 3pt concrete mixer will make quick work of mixing the batches. Plan to mix all the batches the same day to prevent cold joint problems. Looks to me to be about 8' wide by 8' long (for a lower slope) so you will need about 1 to 1.5 cubic yards of concrete, depending on how thick you make it.
As mentioned by others, a pickup load of premixed sand/gravel should be enough. Get extra so you won't run out. Buy enough cement to make a good mix. Shoot for 3000-4000 psi mix (about 6 bags per cubic yard). Get a helper or two and mix away. Be sure to float the slab and broom the surface for good traction.
Sounds like a lot of work (and concrete work IS hard.) But well within a determined DIYer's capability.
On the other hand, if you are better a carpentry, a stout wood ramp like others mentioned is a great way to go. Just be sure to use in-ground contact treated wood.
Good luck. Be sure to post photos of the project.
My vote is use that great tractor of yours to tear it out. Good news is the suggestion to reuse the broken concrete in the repair is right on. A stable base is the most important part of a concrete repair. If you got that route, excavate enough soil to be sure you are on solid ground (no topsoil, roots, organic materials. Then replace the broken concrete and enough sand or gravel and compact the base leaving about 4-6" for the new concrete. Use rebar or 6/6/10 welded wire mesh to reinforce the new ramp. For the size you need, the 3pt concrete mixer will make quick work of mixing the batches. Plan to mix all the batches the same day to prevent cold joint problems. Looks to me to be about 8' wide by 8' long (for a lower slope) so you will need about 1 to 1.5 cubic yards of concrete, depending on how thick you make it.
As mentioned by others, a pickup load of premixed sand/gravel should be enough. Get extra so you won't run out. Buy enough cement to make a good mix. Shoot for 3000-4000 psi mix (about 6 bags per cubic yard). Get a helper or two and mix away. Be sure to float the slab and broom the surface for good traction.
Sounds like a lot of work (and concrete work IS hard.) But well within a determined DIYer's capability.
On the other hand, if you are better a carpentry, a stout wood ramp like others mentioned is a great way to go. Just be sure to use in-ground contact treated wood.
Good luck. Be sure to post photos of the project.
valley
Platinum Member
Greetings, Thats a nice set of pictures you posted. We can see the sides are not supported. Looking forward to see your new ramp. Richard
Egon
Epic Contributor
I'd make a guess of at least six 3/4 ton P/U loads of gravel for a nicely sloped ramp.
As stated some treated wood should be placed between the gravel and any wood on the barn.
As stated some treated wood should be placed between the gravel and any wood on the barn.
OP
IslandTractor
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How does one make an educated guess on this? Eight feet wide by say eight feet long and one foot high at the peak. That seems to me to be about 32cubic feet of material (assuming I ignore the spoils from the current damaged ramp that I will need to break up). Let's assume I can get away with 27 cubic feet of new gravel or one cubic yard. That much gravel should weigh in at about 2800lbs from a quick googling. Why would it take six p/u loads to bring over that much gravel? I would imagine that two 5x9 Uhaul open trailer fulls (about six inches high) at 1400lbs each would do it. Where am I going wrong with my estimate?
Egon
Epic Contributor
Oh, I just mentally looked at the height difference, visualized a proper approach ramp angle, added a little for the side slopes and then put in some more for the organic material that should be removed and then added in the fudge factor.
The old concrete may/may not be usefull. It will have to be broken up into smaller chunks so you don't get delamination on the pad.
And I did figure at about 1500 pounds per load which may be wet or dry depending on conditions.
The old concrete may/may not be usefull. It will have to be broken up into smaller chunks so you don't get delamination on the pad.
And I did figure at about 1500 pounds per load which may be wet or dry depending on conditions.
OP
IslandTractor
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Regarding the fudge factor in calculating how much real gravel I would need for a ramp apron, is there any reason that I could not use some beach sand and pebbles (plentiful as you can imagine on island) to substitute for some of the base layer of gravel, especially to replace whatever organic material I remove (turf, topsoil etc)? That could significantly cut the amount that I'd need to haul over on the ferry.
(Unlike my neighbor Charles, who hangs out on a hoity toidy island full of presidents, ex presidents and secretaries of state, and that is serviced by large ferrys multiple times a day, our ferry service is rather limited and it is tough to get trailer on in the summer)
(Unlike my neighbor Charles, who hangs out on a hoity toidy island full of presidents, ex presidents and secretaries of state, and that is serviced by large ferrys multiple times a day, our ferry service is rather limited and it is tough to get trailer on in the summer)
FredH
Platinum Member
Here is a link for concrete calculations .
Concrete Slab Calculator - The Concrete Network
Rock of what ever sort is in your area would work fine . I have a similar short ramp made of granite , which is approximately 22" deep at its peak , and with layered compaction , it has held up for almost 20 years now without any problems .
Fred H.
Concrete Slab Calculator - The Concrete Network
Rock of what ever sort is in your area would work fine . I have a similar short ramp made of granite , which is approximately 22" deep at its peak , and with layered compaction , it has held up for almost 20 years now without any problems .
Fred H.
Egon
Epic Contributor
If you got local granular material use it by all means. If it is fine stuff you may want to mix it with the better quality granular material.
Another option here is to add a little Portland cement as your layering it in and water it when packing. That would end up giving you a nice solid base.
Remember the toe of the ramp must be dug down too to so you have a thicker granular base there.
Another option here is to add a little Portland cement as your layering it in and water it when packing. That would end up giving you a nice solid base.
Remember the toe of the ramp must be dug down too to so you have a thicker granular base there.
Charlesaf3
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Hey, our ferries are a pain in the summer too! But we do have a gravel yard, which is quite useful. I order mine by the big dump truck load.
Granted they charge me a ferry premium, plus a hoity toity premium, plus a monopoly premium. Things like that are why I now own my own tractor.