Headlight / Rear light solutions

[the fox 1940]

I just signed on here today, after reading your note on Lights I felt I should
add my two cents worth. I wired in some heads lights on my CK30 the other day and I
drilled 2 holes in the Roll Bar and fished a wire across to the second light and then Drilled
another hole at the bottom of the roll bar and pulled the wire out and ran it too a switch and hooked the power off the Starter through a fused 15 Amp. link. Also have done the same for the Back Up Lights. This way I don't have to worry about getting wires hooked
on something in the bush.
Dave

 

[o2batsea]

While a pair of 55 watt halogens draws only a hair over 9 amps, it is advisable to have a switch that operates a solenoid which carries this load instead of wiring off the hot side of the IGN switch or something. An inline 15 amp fuse going to the solenoid load and a 5 amp inline fuse protecting the switching wire going to the solenoid will be adequate. Use crimp connectors and don't solder. I recommend the marine grade connectors that have adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. This gives you a water tight crimp. I always use marine grade tinned wire and connectors for outdoor equipment which you can get from genuinedealz.com.
Remember, fuses protect the WIRE, not the device.

 

[the fox 1940]

Good info there Obatsea.. I usally use shrink tubes for a lot of my wiring and the tape them just to make sure no water can get it. Also I use crimp connectors, makes for a
good connection. When you say Solenoid , What kind of a solenoid do you mean.?? I did put a switch in with a light built into the switch, so I can see if it is on or off.
Dave

 

[LBrown59]

I just signed on here today, after reading your note on Lights I felt I should
add my two cents worth. I wired in some heads lights on my CK30 the other day and I
drilled 2 holes in the Roll Bar and fished a wire across to the second light and then Drilled
another hole at the bottom of the roll bar and pulled the wire out and ran it too a switch and hooked the power off the Starter through a fused 15 Amp. link. Also have done the same for the Back Up Lights. This way I don't have to worry about getting wires hooked
on something in the bush.
Dave

NEVER ever drill grind or weld on the ROPS?

 

[LBrown59]

Thanks for your replies guys.

I'll do a search and see what I can find. I was planning on drilling a hole in the ROPS <small hole> so I can run the wires inside the bar... I can imagine that it will weaken it slightly... but I don't think it will be a big deal.

Phill

NEVER do that.

 

[Gil Case]

"Its not easy being green" Kermit

 

[the fox 1940]

I am surprised a little as too what you wrote Re. drilling holes in ROPS.
The reason I drilled holes is: that the dealer where the tractor was bought drilled and wired in the back work lights. So if the Dealer does this what does that tell you ?
I guess I can too. Well you are no doubt right in what you say. Point taken.
Dave

 

[Grand_Pooba]

Fox,
The "alter/don't alter ROPS debate" has been beaten to death on this site and you will find those who approve and those who do not. There are many who have zero tolerance policy to altering the ROPS. Just the way schools now have zero tolerance drug policies where a kid caught with a cough drop is treated the same as a kid caught smoking crack. IMO let common sense rule 1/4" hole ok, 2" hole bad.


DON'T EVER EVER EVER DO THIS (Just saving Lbrown59 some time)

 

[the fox 1940]

Reply to Grand Pooba
Yeah I guess that goes for everything. If I roll my tractor over running on the level
ground I have around here on my 8 acres I should not be on one .. If anything I'd worry about getting sunk in the wet land I have around here. Like you say a small hole
should be okay, But yeah, to go and start drilling holes like a wood pecker I'd say man you got trouble coming at you. Sounds like I am trying to justify things don't it ?
Dave