snow plow hydraulics from Backhoe

[Bedlam]

Dont forget to be sure its not the 'regenerative' type of valve. The idea of using the 'dump' cylinders to angle the plow. I found out the hard way.Otherwise it will work
couldnt find many links on it but these two
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/140793-regen-both-spools.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/95363-my-loader-functions-regenerative.html

 

[kennyd]

By leaving the other piston still plumbed in I am assuming it will just bypass and the flow will be the the plow pistons. I do not have a lot of hydraulic experience so please bear with me. Am I risking causing any harm to the hydraulics with this method?

Leaving what pistons "still hooked up"?

 

[Smalljobs]

Hello Rims,
I'm in Massachusetts and am doing something similar with my 6.5' Meyer plow. I've had help from KennyD and 3RRL to set up the hydraulics. The Prince valves arrived yesterday, the loader arm-to-plow bracket are here, and all that's left to do is to weld up a suitable frame over the Meyer A-Frame. The A-frame is the triangular frame that connects the plow trip frame to the vehicle.

I'm tapping into the loader hydraulics to create two front QD remotes for supplying the plow angle cylinders. I also added a cross relief valve to be mounted on the A-frame.

I'd be glad to help you out online, offline, or on the phone.

 

[Duffster]

Leaving what pistons "still hooked up"?

He meant if he only stiff linked one curl cylinder and left the other in.

 

[kennyd]

He meant if he only stiff linked one curl cylinder and left the other in.

OK...Bad idea I think. The cylinder make give a little causing the frame to get tweaked.

 

[Duffster]

OK...Bad idea I think. The cylinder make give a little causing the frame to get tweaked.

It would depend on wether or not He was going to run down pressure or not.

 

[schmism]

That sounds interesting.
I thought it might be useful to be able to curl the bucket a little to change the angle of the blade (for scraping packed snow or back blading)
Also I was not sure what position to fix the curl of the bucket till i used it on some snow.

The way i would rig it up is to weld on a set of gussets on the back of the bucket (or QA plate) and a second set on the cross bar right behind that.

then use a 3pt adj toplink to set the distance (also makes it adjustable)

Run a long set of hoses up (from the L/R plow) to the QA points on the FEL control block for the curl function. let the 2 hoses for the curl cylinders just hang or cable tie them to the FEL arm.

 

[rims421]

That sounds like an exellent idea.
I am only plowing my own property with it.
It is a long paved drive ( approx 500' ) and the rear road out to the shop (crushed stone approx. 350')
The whole thing is pretty much flat.
Using the top link to adjust the curl if needed would be no problem.

 

[Smalljobs]

My plan is to preserve all loader functions, mount my Meyer plow to loader arms directly, add two remotes, add cross over relief, etc. The result is full loader lift, curl, and float functions while angling is handled separately by new remotes. Plow angling is handled by new Prince valve, etc. With big late winter snowbanks, and the need to remove snowbanks, I can just remove the plow, put the bucket back on, and go to work. I will also use the new remotes to run logsplitter, backhoe thumb, etc.

 

[Duffster]

My plan is to preserve all loader functions, mount my Meyer plow to loader arms directly, add two remotes, add cross over relief, etc. The result is full loader lift, curl, and float functions while angling is handled separately by new remotes. Plow angling is handled by new Prince valve, etc. With big late winter snowbanks, and the need to remove snowbanks, I can just remove the plow, put the bucket back on, and go to work. I will also use the new remotes to run logsplitter, backhoe thumb, etc.

Why 2 additional remotes?