1700 Freeze plug delimma, need opinion.

[rayikeo2]

My freeze plug is leaking. I ordered parts and have them. Expected a fairly easy job until I took the fuel tank off where I could see the plug. See pictures attached. The plug diameter measures 1.769 inches or 44.96 mm.
As seen in the picture only part of the freeze plug is above the Transmission housing. My question is: Can I remove the plug and replace it without pulling the engine or some other extreme measure? The plug looks like it will come out as the antifreeze seeps out easily.
I measured the exposed part of the freeze plug and a little more than 1/2 is exposed. Total diam in inches = 1.769 Exposed measurement 1.052 inch (over 1/2 of diameter)
MM measurements: Total diam = 44.96 mm Exposed = 26.72 mm

Any help will be appreciated.

 

[rayikeo2]

Picture of freeze plug. Also will I need to put a gasket sealer on the new plug if I (ever) get it installed?

 

[rayikeo2]

I tried to send both pictures in the first post and they must haave been too large. This is just a larger view which may or may not be helpful. Thanks

 

[JC-jetro]

Ray,

That's a horrible place to put the freeze plug what were they thinking?
I can see that you can butcher it piece by piece to get it it but can not see how you can install it side ways without damaging the plug.
Take my suggestion with a grain of salt as I don't like it myself. I even dislike it more to split the tractor just to change the plug. When I was in college the heater core in my Buick skylark developed a leak dumping coolant inside. The car was old and I took the easy route, I bought some leak stop from part store. I dumped the whole bottle in it and took a trip around town in about 30 minutes it plugged the hole. I never saw the actual size of the hole. I later on dumped the old coolant and put new stuff in. I kept that car for 5 years after and i never had any more leak. You might want to consider it before doing serious work. If you do it, I'd make sure to put new coolant in it and getting rid off the old.

JC,

 

[paratrooper]

If you have good anti-freeze discipline with regards to your maintenance schedule you could just silicon the by gollies out of it . Also try running without a radiator cap . This will relieve any pressure in the system . The function of the cap is to RAISE pressure therby raising the boiling point of the coolant . No cap , no pressure and good anti-freeze content also keeps it cool . Other than disassembling your machine this is worth a shot . If you feel that you MUST replace the freeze plug there is another way to approach it . You need an expandable replacement plug . It has a bolt in the middle . You put it in and turn the bolt in the middle and it expands . Good luck .

 

[rayikeo2]

Another Question or two... Does anyone on this forum think this plug can be replaced without any additional disasemly? Has anyone replaced one. I am looking at this and thinking if I was lucky I could lift the old one out and slide a new one in. There may be just enough room. Another option I have mulled over in my head, maybe I could tap the center a couple times to add to the dimple and create more sealing value of the old one.
Would radiator stop-leak as mentioned above stop the leak? It doesn't appear to be rusted any. The old plug looks to be in good shape. I want a permanent fix as easy as I can do it.
"One short step for mankind, I giant leap for my New Holland"

Murphey's Law: "If something can go wrong, it will"

Through my own experiances I have learned it is better to ask questions first than to jump in on repairs and to do something wrong that causes yet more problems. That is the reason I am asking before jumping in. Ray

 

[JFS2295]

Never did no 1700 so ........

I've never been able to properly install a freeze plug without tapping it straight in.

Plugs are usually cups, but if this is one it's installed in reverse of the norm. If you tap it, you run more of a risk loosening more of the plug to block sealing surface.

I'd propbaly go:

1. Leak Stop & silicone the heck out of it.

2. Replace the engine-trans bolts with longer ones and with some support under the clutch and engine try to semi-split the assembly so I could get more room.

3. Be ready with time and tools when doing #2 to fully split the tractor and replace any coolant passage plugs that are behind the block, and which may be hidden behind the flywheel as well.

 

[JFS2295]

Ray,

That's a horrible place to put the freeze plug what were they thinking?..........
JC,

Like that is where they needed a riser support for the internal sand core of the cooling passage?

 

[JC-jetro]

Like that is where they needed a riser support for the internal sand core of the cooling passage?

Jack,

May be.. but , couldn't they do it a bit higher or on either side of the block?

JC,

On my 1700 freeze plugs are on either sides of the block. I gotta check to see if there is one next to steering column but I don't think there is.

Edit: My bad, just realized Ray had issue with his 1700. Most likely I have the same plug where he shows it. I gotta check it's location , although It ain't leaking.

 

[rayikeo2]

JC, there are 3 plugs listed in the engine block diagram. The third one is in the back as my picture shows and yes you have one there also.

Silicone is out of the question as the bottom 1/3 rd is not accessable. Stop leak may be an option but not very permanent in my estimation.

I measured again and I can see dead center of the plug exposed with .333 of an inch to hammer on split 1/2 of that measurement above and 1/2 below dead center. = .165 inch from dead center down to Tran housing.

I don't think there is enough room to use a "plug with a nut" on it to tighten as there wouldn't be enough room for the nut to rotate.