You guys all know that the whole problem with removal of oil filters is the design engineer. If they would just put the danged thing where you could get too it with both hands or any kind of tool, most of these problems would go away.
(SNIP)
I use one hand tightening and dont put out on it much at that. Just check it after it is hot for leaks. I also oil the rubber gasket good before installing. I can usually then spin it off by hand when oil change time comes, that is if I can get my hand into the location. It doesnt take much torque to seal one.
1. There is an annual banquet where awards for various automotive achievements are recognized and rewarded.
The one most coveted is the burned or skinned knuckles award which goes to the automotive engineer responsible for the layout most likely to give a DIY mech burned or skinned knuckles. They try to put stuff the average DIY guy will try to work on himself such as filters, alternator changes, water pump changes, and the like in an arrangement where without the special factory tool you will have a devil of a time getting a fastener loose and trying will likely cause your standard tool to slip. They compute where your knuckles will go during that slip and make sure to have something hot, sharp, or preferably both there for you on which to impale your hand.
2. When I lack specific reliable instructions regarding filter installation I just lube the seal/gasket and spin it on till slight resistance is felt as the gasket touches and then give it a quarter turn more. Works for me (so far.) I have NEVER had a filter that I installed leak.
I have had trouble removing filters that I didn't install. Back in the days when I could pick up a bathroom scale and squeeze it with both hands till it went past its max reading (well over 300 lbs) I had a filter that challenged me. I finally carefully placed my hands, one atop the other, around the filter and methodically gripped down on it the best I could and then began to try to turn it. I felt a little slippage and heard a little tearing sound and my palm felt funny. I removed my hands. I had begun to tear the layers of flesh in my palm but the filter didn't budge.
I went to HF and bought an assortment of filter removal tools. Most of them work just fine most of the time.
The canister style fuel filter (non spin-on) of the 1997 Dodge Cumins diesel is a bear to get to and messy to change. I paid a Cumins shop $85 (Dodge wanted $90) to change my fuel filter. I wanted to watch so I could learn. The mech never looked at what he was doing. He used 1/4 drive ratchet with extensions, universals, and wobble sockets and did it by feel while smiling and maintaining eye contact with me.
I went to the parts department and bought a kit to remote the filter up above the engine on the driver's side. It then used the same filter as the 1996 Dodge Cumins diesel, a spin on. There is a filter minder pressure gauge on the adapter so you can change filters based on empirical observations instead of guessing from miles driven, months of use, how dirty was the fuel?, and so forth.
The last several winners of the burned and skinned knuckles award should be shot and their estates given to the guy who developed the remote kit I bought.
Pat