Tractor weights. Is this really significant?

   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #21  
Within reason, I would much rather have my tires spin when under a heavy load. They are the "fuse" of the driveline.

If you have too much slippage try another technique or get a bigger machine. I would rather deal with a little slippage than a driveline failure. Most manuals I've seen will list how much weight can be added to the front or back of the tractor. Exceed that at your own risk.
 
   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #22  
Within reason, I would much rather have my tires spin when under a heavy load. They are the "fuse" of the driveline.

If you have too much slippage try another technique or get a bigger machine. I would rather deal with a little slippage than a driveline failure. Most manuals I've seen will list how much weight can be added to the front or back of the tractor. Exceed that at your own risk.


Thank You! The tires are cheap compared to a mechanical failure or the extra fuel that is needed to do one job that only equates to less then ten percent of the total life of a machine.
 
   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #23  
I know that some Kubota dealers like to talk about high grade metals that allow light construction but that is most likely bunk. Korean and Indian steel companies lead the world in steel production these days so I find it hard to believe the myths about "pot metal" used by Kubotas competitors.

I feel this inference is about what I've said so here goes! We work on many makes of equipment not just Case-IH, Gehl, Kubota and Cub Cadet. The types of failures we see in engines, and chasssis I could pick on some of our own manufacturers for some parts of their lines as well but some tractors are just using twenty plus year old technology because they can get by with it. It worked then so why not now? Not only with their designs but with the materials they build the machines with. Yes they can build cheaper that way which normally equates to them being able to sell for less unless they spent to much money trying to make them look like the latest and the greatest with the hood and fenders being in style and hopefully making them sellable.

We have one in our yard now that is three years old and 850 hours on it, old design new sheet metal, the engine reminds me of how a Belarus sounded when they were built twenty plus years ago. I was shocked at the noise levels of the engine and glad that we have nothing in our line-up that sounds like it.

Do these tractors stilll do a job? Yes they can, chances are not for as long, not as well and the return on the investment is lower.

Working in the ag industry as well as with compacts opens many avenues that the typical purchaser of a compact tractor would never think about as far as weight. The typical compact tractor dealer that is not knowledgeable with ag tractors wouldn't know! If a compact tractor is bought with the sole use of digging then go heavy and big and I'd recommend the Kubota industrial line of compacts for the hydraulics, but the majority of the customers we have coming through the doors will only be using their compact for digging less then twenty percent of the time they are in the seat.

Any way you look at it there are differences of quality, you may try and ignore it and if that fits for your life thats fine!
 
   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #24  
Within reason, I would much rather have my tires spin when under a heavy load. They are the "fuse" of the driveline.

If you have too much slippage try another technique or get a bigger machine. I would rather deal with a little slippage than a driveline failure. Most manuals I've seen will list how much weight can be added to the front or back of the tractor. Exceed that at your own risk.

I would have to agree. It is smart to design in safe limit indications and weight limits. I have found that with the 3PH maxed out and the rear tires loaded that the FEL LA703A loaded with wet heavy soil it is all you can safely work with. If you are operating in this zone and constantly tryng to stretch farther(Red Zone) you probably need to move up in machine size. look at what the rear #PH max implement weight is and try it out. Most modern tractors with their design matched loaders operating at spec are well matched. You can get into failure issues if you operate in the red zone all of the time.
 
   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #25  
Within reason, I would much rather have my tires spin when under a heavy load. They are the "fuse" of the driveline.

If you have too much slippage try another technique or get a bigger machine. I would rather deal with a little slippage than a driveline failure. Most manuals I've seen will list how much weight can be added to the front or back of the tractor. Exceed that at your own risk.

Spot on. The ideal balance between tractive force and load results in 15% slippage. This I recall from a Firestone engineer discussing tire design considerations, or as he called them "Pressure Vessels".
 
   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #26  
I have only owned 2 tractors and both had the tires filled so I don't know what difference it makes.I have a #900lb boxblade on the rear and it does make a huge difference when using the loader. Both had R-4's and I DO regret not getting the r-1's.The R-4's simply load up too much in mud.
 
   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #27  
Messick has already given my opinion...

Load balance is more important than total weight.

You can always add weight as needed... don't need to carry around with you all the time.

That said, I do have fluid filled rear tires, air in front tires, fill FEL bucket full when using a pin pull dirt bucket/land plane which requires max traction, and keep box blade on 3ph with about another 500 lbs on it when doing lots of FEL full bucket scoop, lift and carry. Always have round bale on rear fork before picking up bale with front spike.

Load balance is more important than total vehicle weight.
 
   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #28  
Filling your tires should not in any way cause them to loose their flex. You likely have too much pressure it the tire or too much water and no air pocket left to absorb the bump. Loosen the valve stem, drain out any water above the valve core with it at TDC and only put about 7-10 pounds of air pressure in the tire.

It was my understanding that when you load a tire the water line should not be above the axle centerline....wrong or right ?
 
   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #29  
It was my understanding that when you load a tire the water line should not be above the axle centerline....wrong or right ?

I think that the usual thing is to fill to the top of the rim. Put the valve stem at 12 o'clock and fill until liquid runs out the stem. Install valve stem and air up as needed. My Mahindra Owners Manual says to fill up to 80%.
 
   / Tractor weights. Is this really significant? #30  
Within reason, I would much rather have my tires spin when under a heavy load. They are the "fuse" of the driveline.

If you have too much slippage try another technique or get a bigger machine. I would rather deal with a little slippage than a driveline failure. Most manuals I've seen will list how much weight can be added to the front or back of the tractor. Exceed that at your own risk.
A tractor that will not spin all 4 of its tires on good ground with loaded R1s is weak in the engine. One that is in any kind of mechanical danger doing this is just plain weak.
larry
 

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