The Haymaker
Veteran Member
Maybe some QC cleaner and a small bore rifle barrel brush, such as a .22 or .17?
Shop Tricks
- Thread starter 49tandc
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Maybe some QC cleaner and a small bore rifle barrel brush, such as a .22 or .17?
Have you tried getting a can of electra clean and spraying it in the socket, blowing it out with air first isn't a bad idea and using a thin blade on a knife to kinda gouge the build up loose isn't a bad idea either.
BearKiller
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2009
- Messages
- 230
>> TRAILER PIG-TAIL CONNECTORs <<
Having backed trailers more miles than most people have driven means I have pulled a lot of trailers and had to clean and trouble-shoot a lot of pig-tails.
Even if you never own a gun, get the biggest gun-cleaning kit with the most little cleaner gizmos that you can find.
Those kits have brass bristle brushes in sizes ranging from about 3/4 down to .17.
The .17 and .22 sizes, chucked in a slow turning drill, better yet one of those egg-beater drills, are ideal for polishing the bores of trailer connectors.
Don't forget plenty of electrical contact cleaner.
Once the holes are clean and shiny, take a Dremel bristle brush in a Dremel and polish the prongs.
Once polished, take a small straight screw-driver and carefully spread the prongs just a shade.
When messing with electricity and wires, Vaseline is your friend.
Fill the cavities of the trailer plug, BOTH sides, truck and trailer, with plain old Vaseline, both during use, and especially when NOT IN USE.
Vaseline is about as good a water repellent as there has ever been.
Also, bugs, dirt-daubers, etc., can't mess with the plug when it is smeared full of Vaseline.
An added advantage is it lubricates the plug, thus making it much easier to plug/un-plug.
Wire to a "brain-box"; don't just hard-wire the plug into the truck wiring system.
Either make your own design inside a weather-tight tool-box using terminal strips, or buy one of the purpose-built seven-stud trailer harness boxes.
Mount this box in an easily accessible location, as close to the trailer connection as feasible.
Route the proper wires for ALL SEVEN functions, even if your current trailer only uses four of them.
Having such a brain-box, should you ever have need to use a pig-tail of different design to the one you have, it is a simple matter to run it's wires into the box and tie into the appropriate terminals.
You can have fourteen-thousand pig-tails, all connected to the truck via
that one terminal box.
If you have to pull a trailer that has been incorrectly wired, and this is an all too common situation, simply move the wires around inside the box to match the wrong-wired trailer, making sure to put them back to rights as soon as it is un-hooked.
NEVER EVER have the trailer lights controlled by the head-light switch on the truck, not even through a relay, never.
The trailer markers should ALWAYS be controlled by a dedicated switch of their own, completely independent of the trucks lighting system.
SOLDER SOLDER SOLDER; never ever use those "scotch-locks" suitcase-type squish-together connectors.
Brand new high-dollar gooseneck trailers come factory-fresh with about a five-gallon bucket full of those sorry connectors at every light and function; a little cow pee, some salty water, and a few vibrations is all it takes to knock the lights out.
I have seen it a million times, and done it too; reach under the trailer and grab the wires, give them a few jerks, and the lights start working.
What this does is wiggle those scotch-locks back into temporary electrical contact.
Before making another trip, cut away those offensive connectors and properly crimp/solder/heat-shrink the connections.
Having backed trailers more miles than most people have driven means I have pulled a lot of trailers and had to clean and trouble-shoot a lot of pig-tails.
Even if you never own a gun, get the biggest gun-cleaning kit with the most little cleaner gizmos that you can find.
Those kits have brass bristle brushes in sizes ranging from about 3/4 down to .17.
The .17 and .22 sizes, chucked in a slow turning drill, better yet one of those egg-beater drills, are ideal for polishing the bores of trailer connectors.
Don't forget plenty of electrical contact cleaner.
Once the holes are clean and shiny, take a Dremel bristle brush in a Dremel and polish the prongs.
Once polished, take a small straight screw-driver and carefully spread the prongs just a shade.
When messing with electricity and wires, Vaseline is your friend.
Fill the cavities of the trailer plug, BOTH sides, truck and trailer, with plain old Vaseline, both during use, and especially when NOT IN USE.
Vaseline is about as good a water repellent as there has ever been.
Also, bugs, dirt-daubers, etc., can't mess with the plug when it is smeared full of Vaseline.
An added advantage is it lubricates the plug, thus making it much easier to plug/un-plug.
Wire to a "brain-box"; don't just hard-wire the plug into the truck wiring system.
Either make your own design inside a weather-tight tool-box using terminal strips, or buy one of the purpose-built seven-stud trailer harness boxes.
Mount this box in an easily accessible location, as close to the trailer connection as feasible.
Route the proper wires for ALL SEVEN functions, even if your current trailer only uses four of them.
Having such a brain-box, should you ever have need to use a pig-tail of different design to the one you have, it is a simple matter to run it's wires into the box and tie into the appropriate terminals.
You can have fourteen-thousand pig-tails, all connected to the truck via
that one terminal box.
If you have to pull a trailer that has been incorrectly wired, and this is an all too common situation, simply move the wires around inside the box to match the wrong-wired trailer, making sure to put them back to rights as soon as it is un-hooked.
NEVER EVER have the trailer lights controlled by the head-light switch on the truck, not even through a relay, never.
The trailer markers should ALWAYS be controlled by a dedicated switch of their own, completely independent of the trucks lighting system.
SOLDER SOLDER SOLDER; never ever use those "scotch-locks" suitcase-type squish-together connectors.
Brand new high-dollar gooseneck trailers come factory-fresh with about a five-gallon bucket full of those sorry connectors at every light and function; a little cow pee, some salty water, and a few vibrations is all it takes to knock the lights out.
I have seen it a million times, and done it too; reach under the trailer and grab the wires, give them a few jerks, and the lights start working.
What this does is wiggle those scotch-locks back into temporary electrical contact.
Before making another trip, cut away those offensive connectors and properly crimp/solder/heat-shrink the connections.
Ken45101
Elite Member
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- Feb 14, 2009
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- 3,669
- Location
- southern Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota M5040, M9540, B21 TLB, B2710, RTV900, JD 325 Skid steer, KX-121-3 mini excavator
If it has rust in it, I would suggest replacing it. There is no way you will prevent rust once you have removed the tinned protection. It will always be a problem even if you get it cleaned up for a week or two.
Ken
Ken
Uncle Doug
Gold Member
You can try one of these brushes. We use the SS brushes while hold up better than the brass brushes.
Orifice Brushes
Egon
Epic Contributor
One can also use a dielectric grease.
Ken_CT
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2004
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- 483
- Location
- CT
- Tractor
- BX23, Hustler Mini Fastrak 42 w/mulch kit, Wheel Horse 14-38XL
These mini brushes from Harbor Freight are pretty good for small orifices.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Bedlam
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2005
- Messages
- 1,878
I considered replacing and I would have with the extent it was rusted up but its the control that does the switch from the amber to red lights and the plug is a molded part of it. Its usually in the compartment on the fender well. but after 10 years the fender starts to rot a bit and leak, thus the problem.
I got it done with the sand paper rolled up and I twirled it around, and used cleaners et. then took some pliers and flattened the ends a bit.
I like the idea of the gun cleaner brush its on my list now .Also Agree 100 percent with solder. CHEAP and Easy , And I believe the best bond possible.
Thanks for all the ideas and comments.. Again some good ideas come through.
Oh I also. repaired the side lens. I saw all the tail light fixtures from cars I junk, and cut sections out of the plastic lens to hot glue in the broken lens.I did one on my car once Like a puzzle to put together but it took allot of sticks of glue. But saved a bundle.
THANKS for the HF link Im placing an order antd thats just what ill order also
I got it done with the sand paper rolled up and I twirled it around, and used cleaners et. then took some pliers and flattened the ends a bit.
I like the idea of the gun cleaner brush its on my list now .Also Agree 100 percent with solder. CHEAP and Easy , And I believe the best bond possible.
Thanks for all the ideas and comments.. Again some good ideas come through.
Oh I also. repaired the side lens. I saw all the tail light fixtures from cars I junk, and cut sections out of the plastic lens to hot glue in the broken lens.I did one on my car once Like a puzzle to put together but it took allot of sticks of glue. But saved a bundle.
THANKS for the HF link Im placing an order antd thats just what ill order also
studor
Veteran Member
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- Dec 23, 2007
- Messages
- 1,464
- Location
- Eastern Ontario
- Tractor
- Jinma 284(Spirit fel), MF 135 (MF200 fel)
If you can taking the plug off a solution of baking soda and water will take off the corrosion -- I have a supply of both ends which I buy when they are on sale to replace the ends on a regular basis
BearKiller
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2009
- Messages
- 230
I thought I was the only one to be stingy enough to do that.
We bought the wife's truck one night and she was driving it on a couple hundred mile trip early the next morning; if I hadn't have already known the truck I wouldn't have trusted it quite so quick; besides, it's a 1st Gen. Dodge/Cummins and they are better than Maytags.
Anyway, it came with a big hole broken out of one of the tail-lights.
I didn't want to give the cops any excuse to harrass her, so I undertook to plastic-weld a flattened marker-light lens into the broken light.
I warmed the oval-shaped marker lens until pliable and flattened it like a pancake.
Then, I used an old broken-handle rolling-pin to contour my patch to conform to the shape of the tail-light.
I warmed both the patch and the lens until both were almost hot enough to melt; then, using the son's H-F plastic welding kit, I fused the two together.
The repair turned out so well that it was barely noticable.
If anyone ever did notice, they did not comment.
She drove it that way for a couple years, until I found a brand new chrome-trimmed pair at a swap-meet.
