Pole building: to slab or not to slab

   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #1  

keegs

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2009
Messages
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Location
The County, ME
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Kubota M5640SUD
When constructing a pole building, beside cost, what are the advantages and disadvantages of putting down a slab?

My guess is that a slab could be put down after the building is up without too much trouble. If that assumption is correct then what provisions do I need to make for a future slab when putting up a pole building?
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #2  
When constructing a pole building, beside cost, what are the advantages and disadvantages of putting down a slab?

My guess is that a slab could be put down after the building is up without too much trouble. If that assumption is correct then what provisions do I need to make for a future slab when putting up a pole building?

Alright Keegs!

Usually a slab is poured after the pole building is closed in but before windows and doors.

If you plan on a slab sooner or later, the slab site needs to be prepared before you start setting poles. Good compacted gravel base built up on undisturbed subsoil, drainage provisions, vapor barrier. Those are good to have with or without a slab. You can put the foam board insulation and final 2-3 inches of base in after building.

Dave.
 
Last edited:
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Alright Keegs!

Usually a slab is poured after the pole building is closed in but before windows and doors.

If you plan on a slab sooner or later, the slab site needs to be prepared before you start setting poles. Good compacted gravel base built up on undisturbed subsoil, drainage provisions, vapor barrier. Those are good to have with or without a slab. You can put the foam board insulation and final 2-3 inches of base in after building.

Dave.

Thanks Dave...What are thoughts on the drawbacks to just going with a vapor barrier and a compacted gravel base?
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #6  
because?? My guess is that it's cheaper and plays better with frost?

No, it won't play better with frost. That's why you do a good prep!

You can pour the slab anytime if the prep is done.

The slab makes it sooo much easier to work on things, little parts don't disappear in the gravel, you can roll a floor jack around, or anything on casters. It's a lot more comfortable to lay on too when that is called for.

I store my bush hog (700+ lbs) with a super duty furniture dolly under the front end. I can move it into a corner, or out of the way without dropping my backhoe and hitching up. That's a real pain remover. I don't think that would work on a gravel or dirt floor.

Dave.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #7  
My slab was poured after the building was finished. Separate contractor. I believe the outfit that erected the building did ask if I was going to have a slab poured, so they may have done something different to allow for it. Ask your contractor.

Concrete prices: Varied from $2,600 to $5,400 for 24' X 36' plus a 12' X 24' area, about 12 years ago. So get lots of quotes-I must have had a dozen quotes, at least. The contractor I selected bid $2,800, including zip strips to control cracking and adding fiber to the concrete for added strength. Some higher bidding contractors didn't want to do those extra things or wanted to charge even more if I insisted on them.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #8  
because?? My guess is that it's cheaper and plays better with frost?


Not really sure if it's cheaper, may be??? The reason I suggested it was because of frost. Slabs will give trouble sooner or later seen it happen a lot up here. Pavement can move without chipping and falling apart. If it's done right it will outlast concrete. Not saying there aren't good concrete floors, but if it were my money pavement would be the way to go. Guy just did his 24X24 garage up the road came out real nice{IMO nicer then concrete} cost was around $1500-$2000{I believe}.

This is just my opinion, do what makes you happy, just remember there is allways more than 1 way to skin a cat. ;)
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #9  
Not really sure if it's cheaper, may be??? The reason I suggested it was because of frost. Slabs will give trouble sooner or later seen it happen a lot up here. Pavement can move without chipping and falling apart. If it's done right it will outlast concrete. Not saying there aren't good concrete floors, but if it were my money pavement would be the way to go. Guy just did his 24X24 garage up the road came out real nice{IMO nicer then concrete} cost was around $1500-$2000{I believe}.

This is just my opinion, do what makes you happy, just remember there is allways more than 1 way to skin a cat. ;)

20-20, Pavement - you must be talking about asphalt pavement?

Dave.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #10  
Not really sure if it's cheaper, may be??? The reason I suggested it was because of frost. Slabs will give trouble sooner or later seen it happen a lot up here. Pavement can move without chipping and falling apart. If it's done right it will outlast concrete. Not saying there aren't good concrete floors, but if it were my money pavement would be the way to go. Guy just did his 24X24 garage up the road came out real nice{IMO nicer then concrete} cost was around $1500-$2000{I believe}.

This is just my opinion, do what makes you happy, just remember there is allways more than 1 way to skin a cat. ;)

I wouldn't use asphalt unless it was purely just machine storage, even then it wouldn't be worth the savings.

BTW a concrete slab is a pavement.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab
  • Thread Starter
#11  
As always...thanks for your thoughts...I'm feeling my way around this issue of whether to get an old tractor and bush hog for keeping things tidy around the farm. And of course I've gotta have a place to store the thing.

Breaking even on something like this seems very unlikely even over a ten year period so I'd like to try keep the cost down as best as I can... keeping in mind course ....I won't live forever....
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #13  
I wouldn't use asphalt unless it was purely just machine storage, even then it wouldn't be worth the savings.
Why?

BTW a concrete slab is a pavement.

:confused: Not around here, 2 completely different creatures. Different areas have away with naming things. Just go from 1 gravel yard, stone yard, rock qarry, etc... to another in a different area, things can get real confussing.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #14  
I wouldn't use asphalt unless it was purely just machine storage, even then it wouldn't be worth the savings.
.


Along with the why; I know of a few people that have used it in their garage and never had 1 issue. My parents neighbor had his paved garage for well over 30yrs. Someone else owns the house now but still uses the same old paved garage for a rapair business. The original owner also used the garage for his car and a bee business, best honey ever. Not sure why you wouldn't want it? :confused:
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #15  
Lots of tractors and machinery are stored outside. What's the big push for a shop? Just get a good engine heater and a tarp to cover in bad weather. I wouldn't put myself into debt for what your describing. Just my thoughts and I do live in NW and it gets cold here. bjr
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #17  
As always...thanks for your thoughts...I'm feeling my way around this issue of whether to get an old tractor and bush hog for keeping things tidy around the farm. And of course I've gotta have a place to store the thing.

Breaking even on something like this seems very unlikely even over a ten year period so I'd like to try keep the cost down as best as I can... keeping in mind course ....I won't live forever....

Morning Keegs,
I've seen a lot of barns with dirt floors, that's fine for parking equipment out of the weather. You will get some rust on your metal things because there is no moisture control. Also hard to keep mice out, they love to chew on stuff and make a stinky mess in general. You aren't there all the time, so a barn cat won't work.

Consider this:
Remove the top soil down to clean and level dirt. Use that top soil later to build a sloping grade around the outside of the building for rain run-off.

Build the pole barn. Plan the wall height to allow for the thickness of the floor materials.

Run one or two rows of 2x10 pressure treated lumber around the inside bottom edge of the building. The top of the top row board should be above the level of the finished floor. Plan doorways carefully. Assuming an overhead door, put a section of whatever you used for poles between the inner and outer wall bottom stringers. Lag bolt this in good. This is what your overhead door will seal against. Make it level. Set it on compacted stone. Drill 3/4" holes, pin it in place with 5/8" rebar driven well into the ground every 4' between the poles framing your doorway.

Fill the inside of the building with crushed stone up to the finished outside grade level, this is maybe 8-10" of stone. For a 30'X40' building @ 9" avg. stone depth you would need 33 cu. yards of stone. Round that off to two 16 yd loads. The stone should be around $12/cu yd delivered, so $384. If the stone is running too deep, start with compacted sand, its cheaper, but put down at least 6" of stone.

Rent a vibrating plate compactor for a day. Every 2-3 inches of stone run the compactor over it until it is solid.

When you are done with the crushed stone, Lay at least two layers of 6 mil black poly plastic over all the stone. Put a good overlap on all seams. A 200' long roll 12' wide ~$80. You can't have too many layers - within reason.

Put 3" more crushed stone on top of the plastic, compact it. For a 30'x40' building this would be ~12 cu yds, should cost about $150.

You are done. Less than $1000, solid, moisture barrier, reasonably mouse resistant.

Dave.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #18  
Lots of tractors and machinery are stored outside. What's the big push for a shop? Just get a good engine heater and a tarp to cover in bad weather. I wouldn't put myself into debt for what your describing. Just my thoughts and I do live in NW and it gets cold here. bjr

Keegs is trying to keep/store a tractor at a second home, he's not there much of the time. He doesn't have a garage, so it makes sense to have some sort of outbuilding.

Dave.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #19  
Along with the why; I know of a few people that have used it in their garage and never had 1 issue. My parents neighbor had his paved garage for well over 30yrs. Someone else owns the house now but still uses the same old paved garage for a rapair business. The original owner also used the garage for his car and a bee business, best honey ever. Not sure why you wouldn't want it? :confused:

20 20,

I figured you where talking about asphalt pavement. I don't know what would be wrong with it for Keegs' uses. The only downside I can think of is oil drips might eat into it, and it may not be as fire safe as concrete.

It would be unusual around here, but that don't make it a bad idea :D

Dave.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Morning Keegs,

Plan doorways carefully. Assuming an overhead door, put a section of whatever you used for poles between the inner and outer wall bottom stringers. Lag bolt this in good. This is what your overhead door will seal against. Make it level. Set it on compacted stone. Drill 3/4" holes, pin it in place with 5/8" rebar driven well into the ground every 4' between the poles framing your doorway.

Dave.

Hi Dave,

Do I understand this is to serve as a saddle or threshold or sole plate...at the base of the door and somewhat burried in compacted stone?

This horizontal member that's partially in the ground then gets lagged into the vertical door frame at the base?
 

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