Pole building: to slab or not to slab

   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab
  • Thread Starter
#11  
As always...thanks for your thoughts...I'm feeling my way around this issue of whether to get an old tractor and bush hog for keeping things tidy around the farm. And of course I've gotta have a place to store the thing.

Breaking even on something like this seems very unlikely even over a ten year period so I'd like to try keep the cost down as best as I can... keeping in mind course ....I won't live forever....
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #13  
I wouldn't use asphalt unless it was purely just machine storage, even then it wouldn't be worth the savings.
Why?

BTW a concrete slab is a pavement.

:confused: Not around here, 2 completely different creatures. Different areas have away with naming things. Just go from 1 gravel yard, stone yard, rock qarry, etc... to another in a different area, things can get real confussing.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #14  
I wouldn't use asphalt unless it was purely just machine storage, even then it wouldn't be worth the savings.
.


Along with the why; I know of a few people that have used it in their garage and never had 1 issue. My parents neighbor had his paved garage for well over 30yrs. Someone else owns the house now but still uses the same old paved garage for a rapair business. The original owner also used the garage for his car and a bee business, best honey ever. Not sure why you wouldn't want it? :confused:
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #15  
Lots of tractors and machinery are stored outside. What's the big push for a shop? Just get a good engine heater and a tarp to cover in bad weather. I wouldn't put myself into debt for what your describing. Just my thoughts and I do live in NW and it gets cold here. bjr
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #17  
As always...thanks for your thoughts...I'm feeling my way around this issue of whether to get an old tractor and bush hog for keeping things tidy around the farm. And of course I've gotta have a place to store the thing.

Breaking even on something like this seems very unlikely even over a ten year period so I'd like to try keep the cost down as best as I can... keeping in mind course ....I won't live forever....

Morning Keegs,
I've seen a lot of barns with dirt floors, that's fine for parking equipment out of the weather. You will get some rust on your metal things because there is no moisture control. Also hard to keep mice out, they love to chew on stuff and make a stinky mess in general. You aren't there all the time, so a barn cat won't work.

Consider this:
Remove the top soil down to clean and level dirt. Use that top soil later to build a sloping grade around the outside of the building for rain run-off.

Build the pole barn. Plan the wall height to allow for the thickness of the floor materials.

Run one or two rows of 2x10 pressure treated lumber around the inside bottom edge of the building. The top of the top row board should be above the level of the finished floor. Plan doorways carefully. Assuming an overhead door, put a section of whatever you used for poles between the inner and outer wall bottom stringers. Lag bolt this in good. This is what your overhead door will seal against. Make it level. Set it on compacted stone. Drill 3/4" holes, pin it in place with 5/8" rebar driven well into the ground every 4' between the poles framing your doorway.

Fill the inside of the building with crushed stone up to the finished outside grade level, this is maybe 8-10" of stone. For a 30'X40' building @ 9" avg. stone depth you would need 33 cu. yards of stone. Round that off to two 16 yd loads. The stone should be around $12/cu yd delivered, so $384. If the stone is running too deep, start with compacted sand, its cheaper, but put down at least 6" of stone.

Rent a vibrating plate compactor for a day. Every 2-3 inches of stone run the compactor over it until it is solid.

When you are done with the crushed stone, Lay at least two layers of 6 mil black poly plastic over all the stone. Put a good overlap on all seams. A 200' long roll 12' wide ~$80. You can't have too many layers - within reason.

Put 3" more crushed stone on top of the plastic, compact it. For a 30'x40' building this would be ~12 cu yds, should cost about $150.

You are done. Less than $1000, solid, moisture barrier, reasonably mouse resistant.

Dave.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #18  
Lots of tractors and machinery are stored outside. What's the big push for a shop? Just get a good engine heater and a tarp to cover in bad weather. I wouldn't put myself into debt for what your describing. Just my thoughts and I do live in NW and it gets cold here. bjr

Keegs is trying to keep/store a tractor at a second home, he's not there much of the time. He doesn't have a garage, so it makes sense to have some sort of outbuilding.

Dave.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab #19  
Along with the why; I know of a few people that have used it in their garage and never had 1 issue. My parents neighbor had his paved garage for well over 30yrs. Someone else owns the house now but still uses the same old paved garage for a rapair business. The original owner also used the garage for his car and a bee business, best honey ever. Not sure why you wouldn't want it? :confused:

20 20,

I figured you where talking about asphalt pavement. I don't know what would be wrong with it for Keegs' uses. The only downside I can think of is oil drips might eat into it, and it may not be as fire safe as concrete.

It would be unusual around here, but that don't make it a bad idea :D

Dave.
 
   / Pole building: to slab or not to slab
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Morning Keegs,

Plan doorways carefully. Assuming an overhead door, put a section of whatever you used for poles between the inner and outer wall bottom stringers. Lag bolt this in good. This is what your overhead door will seal against. Make it level. Set it on compacted stone. Drill 3/4" holes, pin it in place with 5/8" rebar driven well into the ground every 4' between the poles framing your doorway.

Dave.

Hi Dave,

Do I understand this is to serve as a saddle or threshold or sole plate...at the base of the door and somewhat burried in compacted stone?

This horizontal member that's partially in the ground then gets lagged into the vertical door frame at the base?
 

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