Can't load my tractor!

[Jay4200]

I still say a hour with me and my welder and I could make the ramps that are on it work by adding 3' to each of them. Cost you very little and will be a final solution to all your trailer problems both today and in the future for loading other equipment like cars.

Unfortunately, a 3' addition to the ramp length will make no difference at all.

JayC

 

[Jay4200]

Had to load and unload mine today. just some scraps of wood managed to get me off and on.

That's close to what I am doing, but I need considerably more plank height.

JayC

 

[Diamondpilot]

Unfortunately, a 3' addition to the ramp length will make no difference at all.

JayC

I do not see why? I don't think you are looking at this right. I built a set of 10' long ramps for a friend when his man lift would not load with 6' long ramps and it worked. It significantly cuts down the angle of the ramps by adding length.

Chris

 

[powerstroke444e]

please start....my truck weighs 7,600 lbs. My ramps have supported it just fine. I can't learn anything if nobody explains it to me....I am 60 years old, I don't have enough time left to make all my own mistakes....

To start with getting a trucks rear wheels to climb ramps will be tricky pulling a trailer(open diff wont help). Second when the tractor gets on the trailer it the only wheels that hold in park or with parking brake are trucks rear wheels unless its in fwd even with trailer tire blocked it will move some and will still take weight off the truck tires. And when it does move it will fall of one ramp then is when the fun begins.
Not wanting to disagree but I have done wrong enoght that my pucker factor just got really high when i read your idea not that it won't.

Find a ditch theres always one within 1/4 mile, a short drive and asafe way to load or unload.

 

[Steve C]

To start with getting a trucks rear wheels to climb ramps will be tricky pulling a trailer(open diff wont help). Second when the tractor gets on the trailer it the only wheels that hold in park or with parking brake are trucks rear wheels unless its in fwd even with trailer tire blocked it will move some and will still take weight off the truck tires. And when it does move it will fall of one ramp then is when the fun begins.
Not wanting to disagree but I have done wrong enoght that my pucker factor just got really high when i read your idea not that it won't.

Find a ditch theres always one within 1/4 mile, a short drive and asafe way to load or unload.

It wasn't my idea, it was someone elses but it sounded o.k. to me.

My truck will climb my steel ramps all day long without a problem. Pulling an empty trailer won't make any difference.
If I was doing this I would back up on them to make getting them under the truck and the truck off the ramps easy.

If the rear of the trailer is blocked so it can't go down by the bottom of the ramps or additional blocking I don't know how it will take any weight off the truck since it won't be able to lift the front of the trailer up. We aren't talking about blocking the wheels we are talking about the blocking that is built into the ramps to stop the trailer from dropping, or additional blocking as required at the rear of the trailer.

I fail to see how anything could move under these conditions.

I have used my portable steel ramps many times in the last 20 or 30 years and I have never put myself in a position that I had a problem.

A ditch is a good idea but the poster wants to be able to load and unload where he needs to not where it is possible by natural terrain. The ramps are the equivilant of having a portable ditch. Also if he only has a 2 wheel drive pick up there is no way he is going to pull 8,000 lbs out of a ditch, yet going down hill on the ramp will not be a problem.

I still think the use of ramps is a good and economical idea. Please convince me otherwise.

I think you didn't catch the part of blocking the rear of the trailer. If only the wheels were blocked you are right it could unload the rear wheels of the truck.

If it was my truck it is so friggin heavy it wouldn't make any difference, but that is not what we are talking about. By blocking the rear end of the trailer it makes it fool proof. The man has a 6K# tractor and a 10K# trailer. I think he is good to go.

I don't think loading a tractor under these circumstances would generate much U-tube interest. You just drive it up the hill, tie it down, drive off the ramps, throw the ramps in the back of the truck and have a great day.

That has been my experience........

If I am missing some other hazzard please explain.

 

[Sandlot]

Unfortunately, a 3' addition to the ramp length will make no difference at all.

JayC

I think you are wrong. My CK20 with the subframe backhoe was dragging using the 5' ramps that came with my trailer. I bought a set of 7' ramps and that took care of my dragging problem. Longer ramps give you a shallower approach angle which keeps the rear of the tractor off the ground.

 

[powerstroke444e]

By the time it gets figured out on here he could have drove it there and back twice.

My new vote $7 SMV.

 

[mojoinco]

May I suggest doing several (or all) of these things:
1. Come up with some cribbing for both the rear of the truck and for the ramps (extend it what you can). Yep, look Craigslist over or knock on your buddies door for some lumber.

2. Dig a hole for the trailer wheels. I had to do this for my truck to use an existing ramp at my house. You have the BH -- use the force!

3. Extend your stabilizers some while loading/unloading. Lowers your tilt/pucker factor.

4. Have a load of dirt delivered to the new place -- surely you could use some road base or recycled concrete anyhow? A good driver can spread it pretty well for you.

I have these issues with my 16' flatbed and my wifes little minsteer (NH L125). Or trying to load my Miata. Takes two 8~10 foot 2x12's and several heavy blocks (of varying sizes). Got any large logs you can square (or angle one side to match the slope of the ramp)? And even then I park using the ground as my friend.

Or: rent a trailer or pay a local towing (or equipment rental company) with one of the sliding ramps to move it. They are likely not too busy this time of year/economy.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

May I suggest doing several (or all) of these things:
1. Come up with some cribbing for both the rear of the truck and for the ramps (extend it what you can). Yep, look Craigslist over or knock on your buddies door for some lumber.

2. Dig a hole for the trailer wheels. I had to do this for my truck to use an existing ramp at my house. You have the BH -- use the force!

3. Extend your stabilizers some while loading/unloading. Lowers your tilt/pucker factor.

4. Have a load of dirt delivered to the new place -- surely you could use some road base or recycled concrete anyhow? A good driver can spread it pretty well for you.

Also leave the trailer hooked to the truck but use the tongue jack of the trailer to lift the rear suspension of the truck and lower the rear further. Once you get the tractor past the tough point, raise the jack.
Ken

 

[Egon]

If the conditions are right the hoe can be used to dig a trench just where it drags when unloading. After the work is done and the hoe is loaded it can be used to fill in the hole!