Need Tie Down Advice

scolba · Nov 20, 2009

Hey Guys,

Been lurking here for a while, and figured it was time I register!

I am going to be moving a tractor for a buddy tomorrow, and while I drag a lot of stuff around (cars, trucks, the occasional skid steer, and various other heavy things), this will be my first tractor. It will most DEFINITELY not be the last one, though!

To start, I am towing with a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 QC, 4x4, with a CTD. The trailer has a 7500 lb max payload and stake pockets about every foot. The tractor is a 1954ish Farmall Super M. The info that I can find says its 5600lbs. Attached is a pic of it....I'll be using 5/16th chain, 2 on the front (hopefully) and 2 on the rear.

So...the rear, I don't really have a problem with. I'll X the chains to either side of the axle and sinch her down. But the front is whats giving me a headache. I had considered looping the chain over the frame rails just behind the front sheet metal, but only if there is a crossmember to keep the chains from damaging the nose. If there isn't....well...then I'm stuck. Is it ok to go through the tires? maybe one on each tire? Im a little hesitant to do that, since that whole assembly pivots for steering, and I really don't want to jack it up.

So yeah...any advice is welcome!

Thanks guys!
Scott

Diamondpilot · Nov 20, 2009

Most folk in this area have the same problem. What they do to solve it is get 2 grab hook, in your case 5/16", and 2 6" pieces of chain along with 2 grad 8 bolts the appropriate size. They then bolt the assembly to the tractor through the holes in the cross members about 4" back from the radiator. I will look for a pic to explain.

May cost him $20 for the stuff but will allow for safe transport.

Chris

RobertN · Nov 20, 2009

The nice thing about old Farmall's, is they are made to bolt all kinds of different tools to. Cultivators, seeders ect.

As Diamondpilot mentioned, you should be able to get some hooks and bolt them right on there.

scolba said:
So...the rear, I don't really have a problem with. I'll X the chains to either side of the axle and sinch her down. But the front is whats giving me a headache.

scolba · Nov 20, 2009

ah, good call!! Thanks guys!

So now i just need to figure out the bolt hole size. The tractor is about 2 hours from here...was purchase because the owners are going to a nursing home, so theres nobody there to measure. Guess ill take an assorment!

So let me ask....might just be my inexperience w\ chains....but, why would there need to be a hook on the tractor? If i just bolt a 6" piece of chain, wouldn't the hook on the end of the chain that attached to the trailer grab onto just the bare chain?

Diamondpilot · Nov 20, 2009

scolba said:
ah, good call!! Thanks guys!

So now i just need to figure out the bolt hole size. The tractor is about 2 hours from here...was purchase because the owners are going to a nursing home, so theres nobody there to measure. Guess ill take an assorment!

So let me ask....might just be my inexperience w\ chains....but, why would there need to be a hook on the tractor? If i just bolt a 6" piece of chain, wouldn't the hook on the end of the chain that attached to the trailer grab onto just the bare chain?

Your plan will work just fine. Just most around here put hooks on then they use 3 chains and 2 binders. They lay the chain, maybe 15' long, across the trailer with it hooked on each end in the stake pocket. Once the tractor is loaded they put the chain tough in each grab hook installed on the tractor then use 2 separate chains on the rear as you had planed with tensioners. This snugs everything up as long as the tractor is in neutral. Once secured put it back in gear.

The main factor that will determine you bolts size is what fits through the chain. Make sure you use good strong bolts for this with nylon lock nuts and washers. Make sure you use grade 8 yellow bolts for strength.

One other word of advise its easier to load tri-cycle tractors in reverse and much safer. Get the rears on the trailer then adjust the ramps to allow the front to come up on. Ones who are good at it can do so by backing up at a angle so no adjustment is needed.

Chris

scolba · Nov 20, 2009

So for the backwards loading, is that safer for loading under power? Since they have a tendancy to pick the front up? Or is this in general. The reason I am asking is because I'm actually going to be winching it onto the trailer because it doesn't run...so was just thinking that the rear is probably heavier, and I'd like to have that over the axles of the trailer.

scolba · Nov 20, 2009

Diamondpilot said:
Your plan will work just fine. Just most around here put hooks on then they use 3 chains and 2 binders. They lay the chain, maybe 15' long, across the trailer with it hooked on each end in the stake pocket. Once the tractor is loaded they put the chain tough in each grab hook installed on the tractor then use 2 separate chains on the rear as you had planed with tensioners. This snugs everything up as long as the tractor is in neutral. Once secured put it back in gear.

oh heck yeah...that makes a lot of sense! i guess i had always had in my head 4 chains, 4 binders, but since they don't exactly strech, that would work great!

RobertN · Nov 20, 2009

The Farmall I used to have was a lighter, smaller wide front "A".

There is really no good snatch point on the front of these tractors. They were made to pull, or have attachments mounted off the side(ie cultivator bars).

I would pull it on backwards. Pull from the drawbar.

scolba said:
So for the backwards loading, is that safer for loading under power? Since they have a tendancy to pick the front up? Or is this in general. The reason I am asking is because I'm actually going to be winching it onto the trailer because it doesn't run...so was just thinking that the rear is probably heavier, and I'd like to have that over the axles of the trailer.

Diamondpilot · Nov 20, 2009

If you are going to winch it go forwards. Backing is the safest way for a narrow front tractors because they like to bring the front end up.

Sounds like you are all set with a plan. Make sure the battery for the winch is fully charged before you leave. Don't ask me how I know to check this.

Chris

flusher · Nov 20, 2009

scolba said:
Hey Guys,

Been lurking here for a while, and figured it was time I register!

I am going to be moving a tractor for a buddy tomorrow, and while I drag a lot of stuff around (cars, trucks, the occasional skid steer, and various other heavy things), this will be my first tractor. It will most DEFINITELY not be the last one, though!

To start, I am towing with a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 QC, 4x4, with a CTD. The trailer has a 7500 lb max payload and stake pockets about every foot. The tractor is a 1954ish Farmall Super M. The info that I can find says its 5600lbs. Attached is a pic of it....I'll be using 5/16th chain, 2 on the front (hopefully) and 2 on the rear.

So...the rear, I don't really have a problem with. I'll X the chains to either side of the axle and sinch her down. But the front is whats giving me a headache. I had considered looping the chain over the frame rails just behind the front sheet metal, but only if there is a crossmember to keep the chains from damaging the nose. If there isn't....well...then I'm stuck. Is it ok to go through the tires? maybe one on each tire? Im a little hesitant to do that, since that whole assembly pivots for steering, and I really don't want to jack it up.

So yeah...any advice is welcome!

Thanks guys!
Scott