Best method to clean up a long stone/dirt driveway

[amg280]

Hey Guys. I have a question that would be better left for the experts here. I have a 600ft +/- long driveway that goes to my barn in our back lot. It is a fairly strait shot. The problem I am having is I keep getting mudd/water holes in it, and when I keep driving over them in the cars, they get bigger and bigger etc. I have tried to periodically fill it in with some small stone in my bucket, but I barely make a dent in it. This is a bad time of year for this (dampness, mudd, etc). The driveway has a slight crown to it (higher in the middle). I would like to be able to maintain it as it gets beat up pretty badly. I got an estimate to have it stoned, 4 inch thick, with crush and gravel. It would probably be in the $1500-2K range

Some things that come to mind are a box blade or a rear blade. Any advice? Should I just get it stoned? Should I buy a rear implement?

Thanks for any advice. I will try to get a pic up soon, that may help you better answer my question.

 

[greg_g]

I had a similar problem when I bought this place in '96. At that time it was a dirt track that led from the highway - past the barn, past the sheds , past the orchard - out into the pasture area. I hired a dozer to grade it out and improve erosion control. Then I went to a farm store and bought a roll of geotextile fabric to cover the obvious soft spots where gravel historically sank right outa sight. Then I had the gravel trucked in and spread to about a 3" depth. I subsequently maintained the road for several years with a chain harrow, but now all it needs is to be touched up with the landscape rake a few times a year. Never a mudhole since.

//greg//

 

[jenkinsph]

Whether you buy implements or hire the work out is your choice. Either way you need to know what is needed to get satisfactory results.

First thing I would do without seeing it is deal with drainage, you need a place for the water to run away from your driveway. This may vary greatly depending on the terrain but you can't have standing water on your drive. Hopefully the spoils from the necessary ditching can be used to raise the height of your driveway. You may need culvert(s) if the water needs to cross the driveway, depends on terrain too. Once you have a way to drain the water away you will need to cut down the potholes and reshape the driveway with a slight crown and repack. Take the time to get it right at this point will make a huge difference in the final outcome. After you are satisfied the base is smooth and shaped with out any places for water to collect or stand then add the base course gravel ( should contain 3/4" rock to fines). Pack the base course as tight as possible, if hiring this done ask if they have a vibratory roller for best results. Add a thin layer of clean gravel on top about one to two rocks high to drive on.

 

[Thomas]

Its kinda hard to face putting that many $$$'s into the ground,but good base along w/high side ditching also slight crown in the middle of road should help w/problem.

Spring time after frost gone back blade or rake w/drop down blade would be helpful for touching up road.

Yes..offer of pics. would give a better understanding.

 

[amg280]

Thanks for all the replies. I will post pics up tomorrow morning.

 

[20 20]

You may be able to get away with just adding more rock??? If you can afford the fabric you'd be better off in the long run though.

 

[Tom_H]

Check out this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ide-grading-scraper.html?highlight=Land+Pride

 

[amg280]

Finally got some pictures...

Advice and criticism appreciated

 

[ctgoldwing]

First thing I would do without seeing it is deal with drainage, you need a place for the water to run away from your driveway.

This was my biggest problem with my driveway (crushed stone - we call it 3/4" process). My driveway is about 500 feet long with a 15-20 foot drop and a nice S curve right in the steepest part. My first real project with my tractor was to spread about 50 ton of process. I built up the low areas and pitched the driveway to one side then reversed the pitch through the turn so the water runs off to the sides & not straight down, eroding everything. Worked out pretty well just backblading with the FEL. I could use one more tri-axle load to finish it.

 

[FxdGrMind]

Good pics. However it indicates you need a lot of work done.

Your drive has lost the needed "Drainage", subsequently the water is pooling in the drive "Wheel" lanes causing puddles and road deterioration.

You need to re-shape the road from left edge to right edge. It should be a gentile hump so that the water flows off the center crest off the road on both sides.

From the looks of your picture the ground is rather "Hard". a rear blade may not get the results you desire. IF you had a scarafier to beak up the surface down to the bottom of the pits, you could then re-shape the road and give it a nice crown.

However all that said, from the pictures I can't tell how much "road bed" you have. After crowning the road, you may still need a solid 3/4" minus crush to make a decent road bed that would have enough tooth to it to prevent the problem you have now from repeating in the rains...

Might you be able to rent a box blade with scarifiers, if you already have a rear blade.

What size tractor? I use my B7800 to maintain our 3/4 mile road. but I maintain it on a regular basis (every 3-4 months) so all I need is a rear blade to fix the washboards, small pits and re-crown the road.

Cheers