LET THERE BE LIGHT

   / LET THERE BE LIGHT #1  

Mculby

Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
30
Location
Jamestown, IN
Tractor
Kubota L4400-1 HST
Well I added some lights to my L4400. There is a nut that is welded to the ROPS and I thought that I could use it. It looks like it would be for a canopy. I had my sheetmetal shop bend up some 12 gauge 316 SS. Then I drilled some holes and wired it up. The wires were there from the factory under the fenders so I just ran some corregated tube and wire up to the lights. The switches are prewired and I put some rubber protective covers over the switches for moisture protection. I can also swap them so they are inside the ROPS if I need to (so they don't get hit bushhogging. But this way they can also rotate 360 so I can also use them for the front. Hope to use them once we get some snow.
 

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   / LET THERE BE LIGHT #2  
Thats neat. Ive been wanting to do that on my Yanmar.
 
   / LET THERE BE LIGHT #3  
Looks like a nice job.

I have lights on my B7800 using my rops as well. I mounted them to a metal bar and mounted the bar to the top of the rops. 4 for front light, 3 for rear light, but the rears are mounted behind the seat to save room on the light bar.

My tractor needs lights....I do a lot of things at night that my tractor comes in handy for. The lights open up more available hours of work time. Snow plowing is probably what I do most of at night.
 
   / LET THERE BE LIGHT #4  
Great Idea. If you can get them to do it again, I would bend the metal so that it protects the light. Not that you might break it, but I hit branches all the time, and then spend time adjusting lights when I could be driving in the dark...

Carl
 
   / LET THERE BE LIGHT #5  
Looks good to me too, that's one of my projects for the day today. I've already got the switch wired in to the dash to the left of the steering wheel, the wiring harness is pretty straightforward on the 3400.

I was debating whether to attach to the ROPS or not, all the hype about "you can't do that, it might weaken it" etc. Finally decided, "Screw it, it's mine and I'm a big enough boy to accept any so-called risk". Behind the seat is cluttered enough already, so it's going on the ROPS.

Which lights did you use, the spot, flood, or trapezoid beam pattern? 55W halogen I presume? If so, each one draws about 4.something amps, and the circuit is good for up to 10 amps according to the fuse on the panel, at least on the 3400 I have.

Chilly
 
   / LET THERE BE LIGHT
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Great Idea. If you can get them to do it again, I would bend the metal so that it protects the light. Not that you might break it, but I hit branches all the time, and then spend time adjusting lights when I could be driving in the dark...

Carl
Wood Yea that is why I had the brackets made so they could be swapped left for right and then they would be inside the ROPs instead of outside. But may still get hit. Thought about a wire cage around them with some 1/4" tube

Looks good to me too, that's one of my projects for the day today. I've already got the switch wired in to the dash to the left of the steering wheel, the wiring harness is pretty straightforward on the 3400.

I was debating whether to attach to the ROPS or not, all the hype about "you can't do that, it might weaken it" etc. Finally decided, "Screw it, it's mine and I'm a big enough boy to accept any so-called risk". Behind the seat is cluttered enough already, so it's going on the ROPS.

Which lights did you use, the spot, flood, or trapezoid beam pattern? 55W halogen I presume? If so, each one draws about 4.something amps, and the circuit is good for up to 10 amps according to the fuse on the panel, at least on the 3400 I have.

Chilly

Chilly, I attached to the rops because the bolt was already there. Just a 3/4" M10x1.50 and some lock washers, don't know if the 3400 has the bolt or not. I used the 55w flood beam still shines all around pretty well. That is what I figured as well (110 watts/ 12V = 9.1 amps). Doesn't even dim the front lights.
 
   / LET THERE BE LIGHT #7  
Mine has the same nuts welded to the front of the ROPS, I think they're for a stopper bolt for the ROPS to strike against when you fold it up.

I'm going to drill two small holes in the vertical web on the back of the ROPS joint and bolt a piece of angle in there on the inside, mount the light on top of the angle. I may have to weld a mounting plate on top of the angle, we'll see as we go along.

I was looking for the flood beam, all they had at PFT was the trap (ezoidal) pattern, so it'll do for now at least. This time of year the snow reflects enough light that it should cast a pretty wide light anyway.

Chilly
 
   / LET THERE BE LIGHT #8  
Chilly, I attached to the rops because the bolt was already there. Just a 3/4" M10x1.50 and some lock washers,

I was going to ask what size bolt:)

Looks good so I will now have to do the same on my L4400.

weedpharma
 
   / LET THERE BE LIGHT #9  
I got mine set up today and used it tonight with good success. I ended up cutting a piece of angle iron from a bed frame, and mounted it across the top of the fenders in the holes that God and Kubota meant for mounting individual lights. It's lower down than I'd really like but works fine where it is. I mounted the switch on the dash to the left of the wheel. A rubber switch cover finished up the job, it should be splash proof at least.

DSC00044.jpg

DSC00047.jpg


Incidentally, if you're ever fabricating something and need some good light weight angle, an old bed frame is the cat's pajamas. I'm not sure what's in it for steel, but all the ones I've ever used were good stuff.

Chilly
 

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