Trailer Brake Controller Help.

[Samandothers]

I have a unit that wires into the under dash harness. There is a piece that looks like a CB microphone (showing some age here) that I lay on the console and it has a light coiled cable, like a telephone cord, with a plug on the end that plugs in the under dash unit. When I am pulling I plug it in and when I am not pulling I can unplug and place in the glove box or center console. It keeps me from having a unit mounted under the dash or on the dash. Food for thought.

 

[Willl]

What year Ford ?

etrailer.com - Brake Controller - Helpful Video Reviews and Installation How To Articles

 

[RobertN]

1st, I would look at one of the better controllers. I have an older Tekonsha Sentinel. It works well, but if I were buyin one now, I would go witha Prodigy. Well known, works well

2nd, I would not skimp anything when hauling horses. Get a good controller. The tractor is chained down, the horses are not. A live load is different than hauling a static load. I would rather be over equipped with a live load.

Are you sure your truck is pre wired? If so, it is an hour job or less to install everything. My previous('89 F250) Ford was not; took an afternoon to do a clean installation from scratch.

I would solder and heat shrink the connections. Butt splices connectors are ok. Wire nuts are for house wiring.

I had the brakes fail on a borrowed trailer; it was not well kept, and had a wire break. My Kubota is about 2250lbs soaking wet. I had someone cut me off bad on the freeway; I controlled the stop, but barely. Even a lite load behind my 3/4 ton pushed around pretty good. Get working brakes on the tractor trailer too ....

 

[brandoro]

I have the Prodigy controller on my current truck. Way better than the previous one, nice smooth stops, lots of adjustability to compensate for towed weight and speed of application. Once it is set up for what you are towing you can hardly tell it's there. With the old controller I had it happen a couple of times that it was knocked off level and slammed the brakes on unexpectedly during what I thought would be a nice gentle stop. The prodigy doesn't need to be level, makes for a lot more mounting options too.
Not the cheapest controller but what you are trying to stop doesn't sound cheap either.
Doesn't make a difference where you are but here any trailer over 3000lbs rating, even if it's empty, must have brakes on all axles/wheels.

 

[N80]

Robert, the truck is definitely prewired. I have found the plug in the dash for the brake controller, so with the proper harness it will be plug-and-play. I have the two relays for the fuse box. There is a harness/plug near the rear bumper for the 7 pin connector. It looks like all I will need to do is unplug the 4 pin connector and harness and plug in and ground the 7 pin. Ford shows a prewired 7 pin/ 4 pin combo that plugs right in. If I can get that unit from the dealer I will be set, no splicing required.

The problem will be that the dealership is probably going to want a ton of money for that prewired 7 pin connector. It will probably be worth it. eTrailer shows a similar prewired unit for $60, but its picture does not look the same as the prewired oem Ford unit. I bet Frod will want $100 for theirs.

The horse trailer is in good shape and well maintained. Don't know if it has brakes on both axles or not. I will check. It isn't mine, it belongs to the trainer/coach. If she pulls the horse to the show with her truck, we pay a fee. If I pull it, no fee at all, not even for use of the trailer. So even if all this sets me back $200 I can make it up in 4 to 6 trips.

The flat bed is another story. Also not mine. Hope not to need it again soon. Can always rent a 16 foot trailer with inertial brakes for about $70 a day at Sunbelt. I've done that a number of times.

 

[Reg]

Robert, the truck is definitely prewired. I have found the plug in the dash for the brake controller, so with the proper harness it will be plug-and-play. I have the two relays for the fuse box. There is a harness/plug near the rear bumper for the 7 pin connector. It looks like all I will need to do is unplug the 4 pin connector and harness and plug in and ground the 7 pin. Ford shows a prewired 7 pin/ 4 pin combo that plugs right in. If I can get that unit from the dealer I will be set, no splicing required.

The problem will be that the dealership is probably going to want a ton of money for that prewired 7 pin connector. It will probably be worth it. eTrailer shows a similar prewired unit for $60, but its picture does not look the same as the prewired oem Ford unit. I bet Frod will want $100 for theirs.

The horse trailer is in good shape and well maintained. Don't know if it has brakes on both axles or not. I will check. It isn't mine, it belongs to the trainer/coach. If she pulls the horse to the show with her truck, we pay a fee. If I pull it, no fee at all, not even for use of the trailer. So even if all this sets me back $200 I can make it up in 4 to 6 trips.

The flat bed is another story. Also not mine. Hope not to need it again soon. Can always rent a 16 foot trailer with inertial brakes for about $70 a day at Sunbelt. I've done that a number of times.

I'm not sure of the EXACT timeline, but my guess is that any horse trailer built in the last 20 years or so has brakes on both axles.
MOST are rated at 5,000 lbs or more and the typical 2 horse tag along weights about 3,000 lbs. Two horses at 800 to 1400 each plus tack, hay, water, etc., adds up.

There ARE better alternatives to electric drum brakes, e.g. my 4-star horse trailer has electric over hydraulic, but they are still DRUMS.
I have priced a disk upgrade for the next time the brakes need replacement and it is a minor cost compared to linings and possible drum turnings or replacements.
After that disk pads every time and no need to pull things apart to inspect linings, no need for manual adjustments, etc, altogether BETTER brakes to boot.

By design electric brakes are kinda crummy.
The force with which they are applied relies on the extent to which an electro magnet "clings" to the drum as it rotates.
That force depends on the current through the magnet, which derives from the voltage offered to it by the brake controller.
The magnet continually rubs against the surface of the drum as the brakes are applied, i.e. it is a wear surface.

 

[KeithInSpace]

I think you're harness/truck is similar to my '05 Expedition.

I would stay away from a "timed" system and rely on a nice, modern, digital-proportional accellerometer-based controller. They're not very expensive and give you a very "natural" feel. I can honestly stay that when using my Tekonsha P3 controller, I can hardly tell I have a trailer attached upon braking no matter what the load. Utility trailer or RV. Of course, accelerating is another matter...

I have wire-nuts and haven't bothered to replace them. I'd like to solder, but haven't gotten around to it. Going on 3 years, now.

Be careful when you connect your harness...it is NOT color-to-color between the pig-tails. I don't recall what the combination is (I could look under my dash), but you need to look at the FUNCTION for each of the wires. While black may go to black (obvious), red didn't go to red...red went to blue and the other blue went to pink...it was counter-intuitive, but as I said, if you look at the function of each wire (light this, brake that, power in, ground), it's easy to get it right.

If you have any problems, PM me and I'll see what combination I have under my dash. You'll owe me a beer, though.

 

[mbrule]

Thanks guys.


The other thing I'm not sure about is that some say 'proportional' and some say 'timed'. Not sure what that means.

GET A PROPORTIONAL CONTROLLER!!! Once properly connected and adjusted (set level, and output current) they work just fine. Easy to connect and adjust. I have a Tekonsha that I have had for years and used it on multiple trailers and trucks towing as little as an unloaded car trailer about 1700 lbs, to as much as 5 ton.

My brother recently bought a timed controller, and it sucks, and I would not want to rely on it in a panic stop.

A timed controller works as described above after you step on the brake at some set time the brakes are applied and current increases as long as you are on the brake. A proportional controller applies the brakes based on inertia and how hard you are stopping, my older model is based on a pendulum newer models may be electronic?

I have also towed with surge brakes as well and they do a lot of thrashing and banging.

My .02

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks guys. Excellent help. I pull my tractor only very rarely. Once every couple of years. But, there is the possibility that I'll be pulling the horse trailer once a month and the Prodigy comes with the Ford adapter harness for $113. The Hopkins is about $115 with the adapter. I'll go to TSC or Walmart and see what they have too.

You guys are great.

Good to know the state law too.

I got ahoppy controller for 55$ and a pigtail for my 5250 for another 15 at walmart or tsc.. I but spliced it together and it works fine. the 55$ one is the one with only led's on it.. but surprisingly enough, the board inside the case is the same board on their 99$ model that has a segmented led display.. IE.. same electronics.. just saved money on user interface. both work as good as the drawtight activator I have in 2 other trucks which cost a lil more money. On my 98 dodge i did al the wireing and it was a 15 minute job.. you should be fine.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

I'm not sure of the EXACT timeline, but my guess is that any horse trailer built in the last 20 years or so has brakes on both axles.
.

It's a per state thing.. I know trailers under 10k only had to have a single brake axle as little as 10ys ago in florida.. and break away kits were just becoming mandatory around then as well.

my 00 ponderosa 2 horse bumper pull is a 7kw unit, 2 3500# axles, ( dexter ) and one has barkes.. and no break away kit from the factory similar flatbed I have does have the kit, but still only one brake axle.. both were legal in florida when sold..

soundguy