Snow plow, Frame mount, Front lift

[JB4310]

Looks like you did a great job with that. I am going to be doing the same kind of operations on a 706 International this fall. Only thing concerning me from what I see is the possible need to run some kind of support from the bottom of the mount back along the frame of the tractor to distribute the push better, but maybe your blade is not big enough to worrie. The one I am mounting is 9' so will go with a support back by the clutch housing where factor mounted the loaders.

Sorry I missed your reply,

Yes the traditional way is to have some horizontal framing running rearward.

My plow has been cut down to 6.5 ft from 7.5 ft, the plates I dropped down from the frame are 1/2" and only drops like 6 inches so it looks very stout, reinforced that original undercarriage piece.

But it is unproven so only a good snowfall will put it to the test, I'll follow up this thread when I get a chance to try it out, I'm pretty confident but we'll see

 

[sixgun]

JB,

I just came across this thread and I have to say that you did some fine work with this plow setup. It's simple in its design, looks clean, keeps the blade close to the front axle, allows for more lift than the factory mounts and is easy to get on and off. If...no, WHEN I do something similar to my machine this thread is where I will start.

Question is, will I finally learn to weld or will I download the photos and deliver them to someone who can?

 

[JB4310]

Update: Thought I'd be updating on some plowing time but we only got a dusting.

Anyway I timed the switch over from loader to frame mounted snow plow yesterday in preparation for snow. Only took 13 minutes from beginning to end, ~4 minutes for each step, 4 min to take off loader, 4 min to install front mount, 4 min to hook up plow and plumbing.

 

[Dirtnut]

Very nice plow set up you made there, I made one similar to that a few years back and it works great. I know others made suggestions about the A- frame being parallel to the ground and the the blade being crowned forward a bit.Take very serious caution to this it has a lot of merit. i know from experiance with my similar set up. It may not effect you on blacktop but it will on gravel or dirt.What happens is when you go in a dip and the plow drops well below the tractor the steep angle causes the cutting edge to really dig in witch causes the springs to trip easily making the plow want to buckle up right back undreneath the tractor.This almost happened to me,luckily the lift chain broke but not before the front tires were off the ground and the boxblade in the back was on the ground. I only had a slight downslope on my A-frame like yours. To get my blade to work i moved my mounting brackets up on the a-frame to get a level to upward plain,this worked better but the blade still tripped easily & dug in with a steap outward crown on the blade. To fix this i had to cut off the old stops to let the blade lay back much farther weld in new stops & tighten the springs up,now the blade works flawlessly at any speed on any surface.Your set up will work but may or may not need some tweeking. Use caution till you know for sure would hate to see your plow folded up under your tractor. I was very lucky.

 

[JB4310]

Very nice plow set up you made there, I made one similar to that a few years back and it works great. I know others made suggestions about the A- frame being parallel to the ground and the the blade being crowned forward a bit.Take very serious caution to this it has a lot of merit. i know from experiance with my similar set up. It may not effect you on blacktop but it will on gravel or dirt.What happens is when you go in a dip and the plow drops well below the tractor the steep angle causes the cutting edge to really dig in witch causes the springs to trip easily making the plow want to buckle up right back undreneath the tractor.This almost happened to me,luckily the lift chain broke but not before the front tires were off the ground and the boxblade in the back was on the ground. I only had a slight downslope on my A-frame like yours. To get my blade to work i moved my mounting brackets up on the a-frame to get a level to upward plain,this worked better but the blade still tripped easily & dug in with a steap outward crown on the blade. To fix this i had to cut off the old stops to let the blade lay back much farther weld in new stops & tighten the springs up,now the blade works flawlessly at any speed on any surface.Your set up will work but may or may not need some tweeking. Use caution till you know for sure would hate to see your plow folded up under your tractor. I was very lucky.

Yeah, until pointed out I was pretty oblivious to this, I'm hoping mine is not off enough to cause noticeable problems.
I will be thinking about it now but wonder if I was not warned if I would of noticed any deficiencies.
I see your plow is just about square to the ground now, if mine is trouble I figure I could implement some of those same corrective measures you've mentioned,

Thanks,

 

[Dirtnut]

I would definatly try it out first,it may be ok, good luck & let us know how it works.

 

[Kevin M]

Nice work that looks great, and a lot better than the loader lift !

 

[JB4310]

Another update after actual use, we've had 2 snow falls now, the first was small but heavy the second this weekend was about 8-10 inches.

For that very first try with the new plow, I only went about 50 ft when I realized what the tail wagging the dog meant. it was apparent immediately that the front end was being pushed away from the angled blade, especially when turning into the angled blade (Almost impossible) I still didn't want to believe it was the plows A-frame angle causing the problem, didn't even update this thread cause I wanted to be sure before I condemned this set up. On that first attempt I did not have my front chains on so I wanted to try that first to see if it would solve the problem.

Second storm, with chains on. Problem solved almost non existent unless overloaded blade full, didn't even try the skid steer idea recommended to me in another thread.
Well 1 problem solved, 2 new ones discovered. First is blade chatter, the angle seems to be such that the blades makes a hard to describe but very annoying chatter.
Second more serious and will require remod, with that unlevel A-frame, when the plow is angled all the way the front edge/end has all the weight/contact, the closer end of the plow has little some times no contact, I noticed that when putting it together but didn't figure it would cause trouble, cause when testing on level dry surface there's still enough play in the pivot that both ends would touch. On any uneven surface is all it takes to use up that play and the closer end of the blade will come off the surface by as much as an inch or two. Don't know if you all are following what I'm saying but it is caused by the back of the a frame being higher than the front.

So I do need to lower the back by 2 inches, the picture will show what I came up with, pretty simple and should do the trick.
Cut the pin hole mount in half and will weld it on top of itself.

Everything else worked great, I could of worked around either one of the 2 problems but both of them made it intolerable.

JB.

 

[JB4310]

Well this thing is starting to look like a "Frankenplow" But I put it back together, lowered A-frame 2 inches in back, fairly simple, added gussets and raised the stops.

This little A-frame has a lot of rods and extra steel into it now. But judging by dry test runs it SHOULD be good to go, no more chatter or uneven angled blade contact problems. As well as should take care of that upward pushing geometry problem, though as I mentioned front chains made that a non issue.

JB.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I hope every thing works as you want it now. A word of caution. Chains on the front only puts a lot of stress on the front differential. You may want to check with your JD dealer and see what they recommend especially if it is still under warranty.
Bill