2 post auto lift & tractor

[z0lt3c]

Thanks for the feedback guys, seems nobody is a big fan of using the tractor hydraulics to power the lift. The lifts I am looking at, most of the safety locks appear to be mechanical and not electrical. The motor/tank/outlet looks very simple.

I've been debating 4 post vs 2 post for weeks, each has it's pro's and con's ... I have about 12' of ceiling height in my garage, but only about 8' of clearence to my garage door when it's open. In order to use a 4 post lift for storage, I would need to raise my garage door, where-as with the 2 post lift for service, as long I work w/ the door closed, there will be no need to modify the garage doors. Service is really my primary requirement, storage would just be nice.

Here are the lifts I am considering;

2 post: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Master-Series-XL-9BP-Base-Plate-Two-Post-Lift-p/tp-xl-9bp.htm
4 post: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-8-000-lb-Deluxe-Series-Storage-Lift-p/tp-xl-8k-ds.htm

The BMW's I work with weigh under 3000lbs each, so the load isn't very heavy and 2 post lifts are much cheaper then 4 posts lift, and offer much greater access to the underside of the vehicle. I've also been thinking about one of those rolling 1 post lifts.

 

[Lil43]

First I have to agree with everyone else and favor electric over tractor hydraulics (just based on convience sake).The safety devices are mechanical rather than electrical as far as accidental lowering.The only elecrtical safety is the upper limit which usually is just a small cable streched across the top that disable the handle when roof of vehicle contact it.
My vote is for two post lift.Unless you have a large building with lots of floor space,and as you already noted two post give you greater access to the vehicle.
I have a Eagle brand two post 9000 lbs lift (for approx 15 years).Lifting the BMW cars you describe is a simple task for these lifts.Lifting pickup trucks is a little more difficult such as you have to be a little more careful with the lifting pad placement (compared to lifting a car) but still wieght isnt a problem and my pickup is about 7000 lbs.
The head room you describe sounds to be addiquit (with the door closed),and yes the concrete is a little more critical with two post verses four.If your place was built in 2004 I would imagine your fine but as other mentioned I would check.When installing these lifts the floor lags are usually torqued to around 75 ft lbs and should be checked periodically to indicate a problem with the concrete if they start loosing torque.
What ever you get Im sure you,ll enjoy it (except for all the "Hey Buddys" your gonna get),I sure enjoy mine.

 

[Egon]

As far as your floor thickness goes, if you have access to an outside wall of your garage dig down on the outside to check the thickness of your floor. 4" seems pretty thin to me to install a lift. 6-8" is better but if 4 is all you have then I'd either go with a 4 post or if you are set on going with a 2 post then run some guy wire support cables to the front and back walls of your garage from the top of the lift posts after installation. My concrete floor is 6" at the outside and slopes to 9" in the center.

In many cases this would only check the depth of the perimeter footings.

A drill with a 1/2 inch concrete bit used where the supports go might give a better indication of concrete depth. Doesn't help for strength determination though.

 

[buck12]

Unless room is an issue I would go with a 4 post lift. To me just looking just looking at a two post lift scares me because cars do not have the same weight on both axles. I have never heard of one falling over but...

Dan

I have. When I was in college I worked for a mechanic and one of the mechanics left a big Lincoln on the lift over night. When we came in the morning the front bumper was on the floor and rear was supported by a roll around drain pan (one with the adjustable pole). It was somewhat of a surprise to walk in and see that tank of a car being help up by that drain pan.

 

[Matt_Jr]

All the new lifts I've seen have a rod across the top, that connects to an off switch, to avoid crushing the roof of tall vans and trucks with ladders on the top. The other safety devices are cables(keeps left and right side level, and locks that are place every foot or so up the lift. You'll hear them while lifting up the vehicle. After you lift the vehicle to a certain hight, you should ALWAYS set the car down on the locks. This helps prevents hydraulic hose fatigue and failure. I would also recommend a two post asymetrical lift if your concrete is thick enough. Much easier to open the doors once the vehicle is ready to be lifted, and you could lift just the front on a vehicle to do brakes or front end work if it's a big heavy truck and a pain to set the lift arms on. Most of the shops I've worked in had Rotory brand lifts. I think they also have lift arm pads specifically made for European cars available. They aren't necessary, but setting the lift easier. If you have a truck, you may want to consider lift extensions too.

 

[Matt_Jr]

I have. When I was in college I worked for a mechanic and one of the mechanics left a big Lincoln on the lift over night. When we came in the morning the front bumper was on the floor and rear was supported by a roll around drain pan (one with the adjustable pole). It was somewhat of a surprise to walk in and see that tank of a car being help up by that drain pan.

Oops. That lift wasn't set properly on that one. Did anyone get fired?
I've never seen a properly set and maintained lift drop a car. I came pretty close once though taking a subframe out of the bottom of an older chrysler once. Scared the crap outta me.

 

[markct]

yea it will work, but not very convenient or practical. i got for scrap price a 2 post 7k lbs rotary brand lift a few years ago, poured a pad for it outside since our shop is too small. tried it the first few times with the tractor hydraulics cause i didnt have a pump for it yet. it worked fine but a real pain to bring the tractor over, plug the line into the remote, start it and raise it up. i found a 12v hydraulic power unit for a truck dump body and used that, works well hooked to a car battery. you dont realize how often you will go up and down with a lift till ya use one, for example when working on the top of the engine of a low car my back much preffers the car up a foot or so, then up a little higher to reach down way towards the bottom of the eng compartment, then up high to get the bolt outa the bottom of that bracket, ok now back down to get the top bolt out etc, you get the idea! so i would definatly get the electric power unit. you will regret it later

 

[buck12]

Oops. That lift wasn't set properly on that one. Did anyone get fired?
I've never seen a properly set and maintained lift drop a car. I came pretty close once though taking a subframe out of the bottom of an older chrysler once. Scared the crap outta me.

Nobody got fired. This was twenty years ago and it was an old lift then. The lift went into the floor and had no overhead structure. The shop also had a new lift that had the safety latches someone mentioned.

 

[rambler]

You need the electric for working on the car anyhow, so set it up for electric - far more useful. The tractor hyd would be terrible cumbersome.

Many times '4 inch concrete' turns out to be 3.5 inch concrete, using 2x4 as a form. I'd be a little concerned about using that to anchor a 2-post.

--->Paul

 

[mjncad]

Running single phase 220VAC for the lift isn't difficult providing you have space in the panel for the breaker. I wouldn't try to use the tractor hydraulics as it sounds too kluge (computer programming term) like a setup.

I can't comment from actual use concerning the 2-post vs 4-post lift; but most of the people in my neighborhood that have lifts have 4-posters. If fortune smiles on me and I can get a lift, I'm leaning towards a 4-post. Getting in and out of vehicle looks awkward to me with a 2-post as the post appears to block full opening of the car's door.

George2615: Are you referring to the Bend-Pack units Northern sells or the other ones I've seen in their catalogs?