2 post auto lift & tractor

[matt_isserstedt]

Main reason I would not rely on the tractor-draulics are that stinky diesel smell inside the shop when its cold out (or warm if you have cooling). IOW I'm not a big fan of running anything other than propane engines inside an enclosed shop other than starting things up to get them back outside.

I think I'd install the lift as-is, if it gets too much contact pressure the concrete will crack there and then you'll know you have to saw it out and pour a deeper and larger pad.

One last fine point but important. I would not attach a twin post lift to the floor using anything other than epoxied "chemical" anchors. Those equal the strength of a poured-in anchor. The wedge anchors don't/can't/won't get there in terms of pullout strength.

If you want a stout USA brand of lift take a look at Mohawk.

If you need a spare hydraulic power pack, Surplus Center sells them apparently purpose-built for auto-lifts as they look like drop-in OE parts to me.

 

[Whiteguy]

I really wouldn't waste your time trying to plumb into your tractors hydraulics. If you go with a 2 post model you will have atleast 2 cylinders you will have to fill with fluid to operate. You will have to use the fluid thats in your tractor and that is if the brand will coincide with the manufactures oil they recommend.

2nd. Is your tractors reservoir large enough to hold all the extra oil that it will take to fill the cylinders ? Sure you can add more oil but dont forget when you lower the vehicle back down the majority of that fluid will end up back into your tractor.

3rd. Is your tractors hydraulic pump capable of putting out the psi needed to operate the cylinders ? you may have an adjustable relief valve but increasing it just to operate the lift may cause damage to other attachments that you use on your tractor.

Alot of models now have an air actuated locking system, so you would need to take that into consideration. I would find it alot easier to just run your 1-2 phase electric to it and be done with it. I have had an 10,000 lb auto lifters 2 post lift for yrs now and at one time used it on a daily basis. The unit has an electric cut off if you raise the vehicle to high and has manual lock outs that I like. I have worked around alot of 4 post lifts as well. They def. have their good points but the biggest down side I didn't like were if you plan on pulling the tires on the vehicle for any reason you would still have to jack up that side unless you spend the extra money and get a system that is used for car alignments. My 2 post has served me well it just takes a little extra time and safety to make sure everything is in the correct place before raising the vehicle.

When I installed mine I only had 4-1/2 inches worth of 4000 mix, I did install rebar when I poured for the entire building. While I think thicker is better I haven't had any cracks to this day and have lifted crew cab duallys. Good luck !

 

[dan c]

To find out how thick your pad is: Go to the county office building department and ask for the foundation plans. You will need your APN number. They will have these on file. This is providing there was a permit pulled for the job!

 

[z0lt3c]

w/r/t electric, i only have 110 run into the garage. the main house fuse panel has plenty of remaining slots, but there is no pre-existing conduit to get from the panel to the garage. i'm not quite sure how I would get from point A to point B with the new line. this sounds like a job for a real electrician requiring permits.

w/r/t the floor, since the garage is attached, the rooms above the garage are supported by 2 large beams, each with 1 steel/concrete pillar that extends all the way through concrete garage floor. I would thick this type of load bearing arrangement would require some kind of thickness/strength minimum. Checking w/ the town sounds like a great idea.

I am still struggling to figure out where I would position the 2 post setup on the floor to avoid the structural posts and garage door tracks. since the posts are 9' tall, they will obstruct my garage doors at 8' tall. i want to be able to back into my garage bay so i can lift the car with the nose facing the door. I'm gonna need to play around w/ some cardboard cutouts to see how this all will line-up. i may need to lift my garage door track to make this work.

Since a 4 post lift will fit under the garage door and runs on 110, this is starting to seem like an easier solution.

 

[matt_isserstedt]

What I think you should probably do is to revise or custom cut the roller track 90 degree bend, and instead send this up at a lesser angle (80 degrees included for example) so the vertical tracks more closely parallel the interior of the roof trusses. I have seen setups as small as ~15 degree included on the roller track in tall boxy buildings.

You will probably need a stiffer or more tightly wound counterbalance spring.

 

[rambler]

I'd think the 8 foot garage door would be a very limiting factor on how high you can lift; and would need to be raised anyhow. If you have a 12 foot ceiling, shouldn't be much of a problem - you have room, and if you are putting in a lift, you will end up with pickups and such on the lift. Friends find out about these things.

Posts going up to the roof likely have a footer poured under them? I'd want to know before assuming is all.

What is it you want to accompish with the lift? The 2 point makes wheel work a lot easier, access to the bottom is easier.

Backing into a lift is unusual - harder to line up. Not sure I'd be planning for that as the normal....

Hard to run tools and shop stuff on less than 40 amps available anyhow - if you are putting in a lift you plan to do some real work, you will need power available for your tools. You'll end up with a better power supply someday. If you miust budget, put in the power now, wait a year to get the lift - in 5 years you'll be happy, instead of struggling with a lift you don't like and breaker that keeps blowing.....

Figure out what you want to accomplish, and them make your tools fit that need. Compromising your tools to what fits now real cheap, and you end up with something that isn't very useful, and will sit there unused. They you spent a little money for nothing. Instead of spending a bit more money & having something you enjoy using & get value from. This lift should make vehicle service fun & easy, not just shoehorned in to whatever fits more or less so I can struggle to make it work on my smaller cars.....

Just some thoughts. I've been there, it takes a while to realize the point is not to just have something like a lift; but to have something that makes life better. A poor lift that doesn't allow work on a real vehicle or for you to lift it up high enough to walk under - what was the point?

--->Paul

 

[Diamondpilot]

Like others said you are going to need 220 in a shop anyways so just get it wired in. Also what happens if you need to work on your tractor that is dead?

I would go 8K for the simple fact it will lift a F-350 diesel.

Not sure where you are getting your lift but these guys have a show room 30 miles from my house. I go there an drool all the time. Great prices. They sell a brand called Atlas which I think is made for them. 2 post 9,000# lift we got was $1500. I have bought many items off them and they have a great showroom with all the parts and service you would ever need.

Greg Smith Equipment Sales Inc. - The lift professionals with quality automotive equipment at discount prices.

Chris

 

[George2615]

Running single phase 220VAC for the lift isn't difficult providing you have space in the panel for the breaker. I wouldn't try to use the tractor hydraulics as it sounds too kluge (computer programming term) like a setup.

I can't comment from actual use concerning the 2-post vs 4-post lift; but most of the people in my neighborhood that have lifts have 4-posters. If fortune smiles on me and I can get a lift, I'm leaning towards a 4-post. Getting in and out of vehicle looks awkward to me with a 2-post as the post appears to block full opening of the car's door.

George2615: Are you referring to the Bend-Pack units Northern sells or the other ones I've seen in their catalogs?

The one my friend bought from Northern doesn't say Bend-Pack. I think his says Super Lift or Sup-R-Lift or something similar, I just know it is of poor quality, poor instructions, many sharp edges on metal, and not certified. It does the job of lifting, I just don't like it in my opinion.

 

[Just Bill]

Hello
Maybe a scissor lift would do what you need.
It takes less space
Rated at 6k
Runs on 110
Can be moved easily
They have a lot of + going for them.

 

[GeneD14]

Like others said you are going to need 220 in a shop anyways so just get it wired in. Also what happens if you need to work on your tractor that is dead?

I would go 8K for the simple fact it will lift a F-350 diesel.

Not sure where you are getting your lift but these guys have a show room 30 miles from my house. I go there an drool all the time. Great prices. They sell a brand called Atlas which I think is made for them. 2 post 9,000# lift we got was $1500. I have bought many items off them and they have a great showroom with all the parts and service you would ever need.

Greg Smith Equipment Sales Inc. - The lift professionals with quality automotive equipment at discount prices.

Chris

I bought my 2-post 10,000 lb lift 2 years ago from Greg Smith also and it has been great. Since the 2 post lifts from the frame I have been able to use it to rotate tires, change brakes, replace a truck axle and still be able to do exhaust work and oil changes.