Hydraulic Pump Dead?

[Iplayfarmer]

If this scares you.. like it sounds like it does.. then instead flush with cheap UTF oil... probably find some for 35$ per 5g pail.

soundguy

This is exactly what I'm doing. After draining the old Agco fluid, flushing with Agco fluid mixed with diesel, and draining last night; I put UTF in it this morning. I ran it for a while moving some snow. I haven't drained it again. I figured I'd run it a few more times and then drain and see what it looks like. Maybe next weekend I'll get to it.

When I went to the hardware store to get the UTF, I was amazed to find that a 2.5 gallon jug cost $34 whereas a 5 gallon pail cost $27. Guess which one I got. Since I have twice what I originally intended to get, I may just flush twice.

Once I get the fluid to come out nice and clear, I'll put in the $20/gal low viscosity stuff that I talked the dealer into selling me.

 

[dcyrilc]

When I went to the hardware store to get the UTF, I was amazed to find that a 2.5 gallon jug cost $34 whereas a 5 gallon pail cost $27. Guess which one I got.

That's funny. Just shows it pays to check the cost of different sizes. I've seen things priced the other way around as well.

 

[Soundguy]

Hyguard IS a utf oil.

go ahead and do whatever makes you feel warm and fuzzy. pay no attention to the advice that bothers you... once you've worked on tractors enough.. you will get a feel for what is a common remedy.. like a flush..... will come in time...

soundguy

I just like being cautious when doing something wrong can cause damage. No sense causing additional work for myself.

I thought UTF was what I didn't want to use? My normal oil is HY-GARD (JDM J 20 A) per the manual. As I said, I know little to nothing about different oil types.

 

[dcyrilc]

Hyguard IS a utf oil.

go ahead and do whatever makes you feel warm and fuzzy. pay no attention to the advice that bothers you... once you've worked on tractors enough.. you will get a feel for what is a common remedy.. like a flush..... will come in time...

soundguy

OK, so UTF is what I do want to use. Told you that I know nothing about oil. Flushing the system is good, I have no doubt of this. I'm just trying to make sure I understand correctly, before I deviate from the expensive JD oil. Using a less expensive oil to flush the system is even better, as long as I buy the right oil and don't cause larger problems from lack of knowledge. I try hard to avoid making costly mistakes when possible. Check twice, flush once, so to speak. Or at least try to avoid using an oil which might damage my brakes. I'll flush as many times as needed, I just want to make double sure I use the right oil. As others have said, we learn from asking questions... or not asking, and goofing it up and then asking questions.

 

[Steve Bosshard]

Water and Oil....Interesting comments. I found a couple of articles about Hy-Tran Fluid. The first link http://www.caseih.com/files/tbl_s33Publications/PublicationPDF128/1865/MACHINERYMAINTFL07U.pdf (or tiny url http://tinyurl.com/yeaz8y6 ) tells about the development of Hy-Tran and it's unique ability to retain 1% water and still have the fluid not separate from the additives. One percent would be around 1 quart on 25 gallons if my math is correct, and the trick is for the Hy-Tran to hold on to the additives that make the fluid work, and not let the water separate the fluid from it's additives.

I suspect to a point both comments about water and fluid are correct. The fluid and water mix together into an emulsion (milky mess). I also 'suspect' that beyond a point water will settle to the bottom when the oil becomes 'saturated' as is did when I accidentally added corrupted (had water in it - old drained fluid headed for the recycling center) Hy-Tran in my 1086. I did run the machine a little and did get a coffee cup or so of water out of the bottom. New fluid and filter on a 1086 is not cheap.

Viscosity Oil also has some specs for Hy-Tran at Case-Akcela HyTran Ultra Tractor Fluid

Change the fluid and filter and try and see what caused and how to prevent the ingress of water to begin with.

Back to the rack and best wishes for a good 2010. Steve Bosshard, Temple, Texas

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I'm just trying to make sure I understand correctly, before I deviate from the expensive JD oil.

Good plan.

My philosophy is that I'd much rather sound like a naive fool and risk the mockery of others for asking than feel like a naive fool because I did some extensive damage to my equipment or to myself.

I do wonder how much of the "use only dealer supplied expensive fluid" verbage in owner's manuals is motivated by dealer sales rather than actual equipment protection.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You did good by taking SoundGuys advise. He knows tractors and machinery. I was scared to do a diesel flush but did a 100% diesel flush on both my hydros and tranys when I got my Jinma. Its not a common sump system so I have both a tranny/rear axle and a hydro reservoir. I could not believe what came out. I then refilled with the proper oils then changed again at 500 hours. It now has 700 hours and not one single issue.

Chris

 

[dcyrilc]

Good plan.

My philosophy is that I'd much rather sound like a naive fool and risk the mockery of others for asking than feel like a naive fool because I did some extensive damage to my equipment or to myself.

I do wonder how much of the "use only dealer supplied expensive fluid" verbage in owner's manuals is motivated by dealer sales rather than actual equipment protection.

It's my understanding, from reading numerous threads, that the dealers sell pretty good oil and that to get an equivalent non-dealer oil will cost about the same price. For many of us, it is simply easier to buy from the dealer than to track down an equivalent. For those who don't have a dealer nearby, it may be practical to do their homework and buy an equivalent locally.

My challenge, will be to find a cheaper, and most likely lower quality oil, to flush with which will not harm the wet brakes on my JD 2240. Currently, my brakes are solid and work well. I'm not interested in making a mistake which causes a premature failure. I haven't looked yet at what's involved in replacing my brakes, but I am willing to bet that it is more than I want to do just for the sake of doing it.

I know that my oil looks the way it does because the tractor sat for nearly three years before I bought it. The guy I bought it from told me that he used it a couple of dozen times in that period, while he had it, and did no maintainance to it. It lived outside under a tarp. The 3PH didn't work properly and the steering had a lot of play in it. After getting quotes to have it repaired, he ended up just buying another tractor and just using the one I bought from him when he needed the FEL.

 

[Soundguy]

Find a utf that says it meets or exceeds the specs of your oem oil.. including the wet brake / clutch issue.. and use that as the flush.. IMHO.. I'd add in a can of seafoam transtune as it will help grab more water in suspension...

soundguy

It's my understanding, from reading numerous threads, that the dealers sell pretty good oil and that to get an equivalent non-dealer oil will cost about the same price. For many of us, it is simply easier to buy from the dealer than to track down an equivalent. For those who don't have a dealer nearby, it may be practical to do their homework and buy an equivalent locally.

My challenge, will be to find a cheaper, and most likely lower quality oil, to flush with which will not harm the wet brakes on my JD 2240. Currently, my brakes are solid and work well. I'm not interested in making a mistake which causes a premature failure. I haven't looked yet at what's involved in replacing my brakes, but I am willing to bet that it is more than I want to do just for the sake of doing it.

I know that my oil looks the way it does because the tractor sat for nearly three years before I bought it. The guy I bought it from told me that he used it a couple of dozen times in that period, while he had it, and did no maintainance to it. It lived outside under a tarp. The 3PH didn't work properly and the steering had a lot of play in it. After getting quotes to have it repaired, he ended up just buying another tractor and just using the one I bought from him when he needed the FEL.