JD3320 Question

[bobsphotos]

In the spring I want to add a top link hydraulic valve to my 3320 and I need to ask a few questions. I apoligize ahead of time for using incorrect technical terms. I bought the tractor with a backhoe so it has live hydraulics already plumbed and I also bought it with the factory installed 3rd scv that I am using for the angle on my snowplow. I want to leave the 3rd scv available for a potential grapple bucket so is there any reason that I cannot plumb in a new valve for the top link using the backhoe circuit ? I have included a pic of my tractor hydraulics and I have a question about a connection. If you look at the picture, #1 & #2 are my live backhoe connections. Can anyone tell me what connection #3 is for?
Thanks

 

[kennyd]

#3 is a direct return to the tank-bypassing the 3PH. It is used when the backhoe is mounted.

You can plumb a valve into the couplers like you want...or you could use a diverter to basically split the 3rd SCV into two controls.

 

[bobsphotos]

Hey KennyD,
I want to go the route of adding a valve that I can mount in a spot where I can reach it from both the seat and from the back. Can you suggest a valve to use?
Thanks,
Bob W

 

[kennyd]

Hey KennyD,
I want to go the route of adding a valve that I can mount in a spot where I can reach it from both the seat and from the back. Can you suggest a valve to use?
Thanks,
Bob W

Sure...How many spools (functions) do you want/need?

The other option, and probably cheaper option is to add a diverter to the loaders dump/curl circuit to operate the plow and 4n1. It would be a cleaner install also and leave your 3rd SCV for the HTL.

 

[bobsphotos]

Hi Kenny,
One spool is all I will need and one of the big reasons to add a physical valve is for accessability from the seat and from the back of the tractor.

 

[kennyd]

-You don't need to operate a plow or 4n1 from the back of the tractor...how does that change what I suggested?

HERE is a basic 1 spooler w/PB (the plug is extra)

 

[bobsphotos]

The main reason for adding the valve is for a hydraulic top link and since I use Pats easy change instead of a quick change as you do, I will have to adjust the cylinder every time I change an attachment and it will not be easy reaching way up in front of the seat to adjust it.

 

[Cocre]

Here is what I have just done.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/159732-installed-hydraulic-toplink-jd-3320-a.html

In a couple of weeks I will post an update. I am installing a power beyond port in the Prince SV valve and will use it to supply oil to the 3 pt hitch rather than oil from the valve outlet. The outlet will be replumbed to the backhoe return fitting.

 

[bobsphotos]

Cocre,
I appreciate the input, and I have read your thread but you are talkin to a hyd newbie.

 

[kennyd]

The main reason for adding the valve is for a hydraulic top link and since I use Pats easy change instead of a quick change as you do, I will have to adjust the cylinder every time I change an attachment and it will not be easy reaching way up in front of the seat to adjust it.

That is why I wrote this:

The other option, and probably cheaper option is to add a diverter to the loaders dump/curl circuit to operate the plow and 4n1. It would be a cleaner install also and leave your 3rd SCV for the HTL.

The lever for the 3rd SCV is not that hard to reach from the rear...

 

[bobsphotos]

That is why I wrote this:


The lever for the 3rd SCV is not that hard to reach from the rear...

OK Kenny,
You've beat me down. I put on my boots, my Carhart jacket and took my flashlight out to the Deere shed. Low and behold, even with my short reach I can move the 3rd SCV lever and reach the outboard end of the toplink at the same time. Now talk to me about diverter valves, and how well will it work for a grapple bucket?

 

[kennyd]

The basic Diverter valve that is used is the 5117A from the Surplus Center. Basically, when a momentary switch is held, the left/right movement of the joystick would operate the "new" circuit on the loader. I have been using one for years (formally a FEL snowplow and now a Markham grapple)...and it will look a lot better than a big valve added on hanging off the back somewhere.

I you don't want to build this "kit" yourself, you can get one ready to bolt on from WR Long.

Do some searches in the hydraulics forum for these terms, then get back to me...

diverter
5117
4n1
snowplow

 

[bobsphotos]

Thanks Kenny..........

 

[Cocre]

Cocre,
I appreciate the input, and I have read your thread but you are talkin to a hyd newbie.

Keep listening to kennyd (and others) and you will lose the noob status before you know it.

Kennyd is right about not trying to build the kit yourself if you can buy one. You may think you can come out cheaper, but by the time you buy the wrong fittings a couple of times, and/or you get sent the wrong part a couple times, all your savings just got ate up in extra shipping costs.