Welding - I want to learn ..need advice.

[Renze]

Appreciate the reply, curious about your statement though about low ampere MIG welder only being good for sheet metal. Are you referring to the 140a 100v models or something smaller.

The 180A mig i used for the past 5 years, was good up to 1/4" sheetmetal. For the things i'v welded most in the past few years, it was coming short. The 250A welder i borrow now, is a whole different animal and will occasionaly tackle 1" bar in multiple passes, and at a reasonable pace. To do 1"stuff more often, it wont last, so i bought a 350A welder.
I dont know what to expect from a 140A mig, but when using the 180A mig at 160A single phase, i can imagine ill curse the 140A single phase welder if i ever have to use one.

Welding on single phase sucks anyhow. At least here in Holland. Dont know why, is it the drop in voltage when drawing the full current over two wires, is it the current jumping up and down at 50Hz, or just because most single phase welders are light anyways ?

Welding rods on single phase isnt so bad, it will at least penetrate properly.

 

[dcyrilc]

The 180A mig i used for the past 5 years, was good up to 1/4" sheetmetal. For the things i'v welded most in the past few years, it was coming short. The 250A welder i borrow now, is a whole different animal and will occasionaly tackle 1" bar in multiple passes, and at a reasonable pace. To do 1"stuff more often, it wont last, so i bought a 350A welder.
I dont know what to expect from a 140A mig, but when using the 180A mig at 160A single phase, i can imagine ill curse the 140A single phase welder if i ever have to use one.

Welding on single phase sucks anyhow. At least here in Holland. Dont know why, is it the drop in voltage when drawing the full current over two wires, is it the current jumping up and down at 50Hz, or just because most single phase welders are light anyways ?

Welding rods on single phase isnt so bad, it will at least penetrate properly.

You have me curious what kind of projects you have been playing with that requires a lot of welding with up to an inch of penatration? That's heavy duty stuff.

 

[mjncad]

I'll make you a deal though... If I ever find the justification to buy it, you're welcome to come over and play with it!

That will give me an excuse to see the Pacific Northwest.

 

[Renze]

You have me curious what kind of projects you have been playing with that requires a lot of welding with up to an inch of penatration? That's heavy duty stuff.

I dont need an inch of penetration... but welding a solid 45mm push bar to 25mm (1 inch) front loader consoles, the chunk of steel is just too much of a heat sink to get it hot, and keep it hot with only 180A. The 180A died in action, so i brought it to the repair shop and ordered the 350A, and he borrowed me the 250A because i needed my front loader again for the feeding. The 250A was a totally different animal, it burns deep and creates flat beads. the 180A just stacks some caterpillars back to back, because it cant penetrate and melt them together.

After using the 250A and feeling the world of difference between the two, i was in doubt if i hadnt spent too much by ordering a 350A. However, i felt i needed overcapacity so i would never use more Ampere than the welder can deliver at its 100% duty cycle rating, to make sure it will last at least a decade without repairs. The repairs of the 180A welder in the past 2 years, are as much as the extra cost of buying the 350A right away. I certainly didnt buy it for bragging rights, I see it as an investment that will pay back over time due to lower, or even non-existent repair costs. At the same, or even lower operating cost per year, i can run a way nicer welder... What would you do ?

 

[Renze]

Nearly all of what I will be working on will range from sheet metal to 1/4" material. I decided, that for now, if I need something thicker welded, I will continue to use the shop I have used in the past and settled for the Miller 211, a 210A Mig.

I think the Miller 210A will make you a happy man, doing the jobs with it that you mention...
When you have thick stuff to weld, you can allways tack it up yourself (the time con$$uming part) and make the final beads at the shop you used.

It will do a lot more than 1/4" if you dont overheat it by running it continously. IMHO, every time the thermal protection turns the welder off, you've already lost some lifespan of it: it only protects from total failure, but harm is already taking place. If you make habit of never checking the oil level of your truck, but run it untill the warning light in the dash starts to light up, you cant expect it to last either..

 

[dcyrilc]

I dont need an inch of penetration... but welding a solid 45mm push bar to 25mm (1 inch) front loader consoles, the chunk of steel is just too much of a heat sink to get it hot, and keep it hot with only 180A. The 180A died in action, so i brought it to the repair shop and ordered the 350A, and he borrowed me the 250A because i needed my front loader again for the feeding. The 250A was a totally different animal, it burns deep and creates flat beads. the 180A just stacks some caterpillars back to back, because it cant penetrate and melt them together.

After using the 250A and feeling the world of difference between the two, i was in doubt if i hadnt spent too much by ordering a 350A. However, i felt i needed overcapacity so i would never use more Ampere than the welder can deliver at its 100% duty cycle rating, to make sure it will last at least a decade without repairs. The repairs of the 180A welder in the past 2 years, are as much as the extra cost of buying the 350A right away. I certainly didnt buy it for bragging rights, I see it as an investment that will pay back over time due to lower, or even non-existent repair costs. At the same, or even lower operating cost per year, i can run a way nicer welder... What would you do ?

If I had a need for doing something like that regularly, I would get the larger welder. If not, I have two other options available to me. The shop you mentioned, and also a friend who retired from 30yrs as a heavy equipment mechanic and still does it on the side to supplement his retirement. I've used him when I needed welding in the field or when I needed repairs that were beyond me or I simply didn't want to do. Although, this costs me, as I believe that as a friend, I should be the first to step up and pay because he does this as a business. There are often times he comes over and does things for free, but I always offer to pay and let him make the choice. It's the same with the shop I use. I just had them rebuild the bottom of the cowl for the used tractor I recently purchased. The batteries sit in the bottom of the cowl and it was rusted out. They cut out the old bottom and replaced it. James keeps telling me not to worry about it when I ask how much. I feel quilty though, because I know that he subs out the sheet metal fabrication. Here's a pic of the cowl with the new bottom installed.