Ballast My New Kubota Tractors (pictures) and ballast question

[captjack]

Wheel weights. They make them for the 7040 that are 200lbs each. So an extra 400 on the rear or you can double them up on each wheel for 800 lbs. This with the filled tires should be more than enough for pushing snow around.

 

[easygo]

You sure need more weight in the back. You can see one of the wheels come off the ground for a split second in the video.
I would second the 55gal drum filled with concrete. It would be enough for the smaller machine but the 7040 needs more then that. If you feel like building a box and fill it with concrete that would be the cheapest. The wheel weights are a good idea too but they sell them at a price as if they were made of gold.
Nice rigs.

 

[bstrom]

Also the wheel weights won't take any weight off of your front axle when you do the big lift. I think there are at least some members here that agree that you want the rears to do most of the work and have most of the traction back there anyway. It's not so bad to take some weight off the front axle and put it on the rear, the front wheels are still going to assist. Will it mess up your steering? You'd have to try it I guess. Maybe you could borrow a heavy 3-point implement first before investing in wheel weights. If it works get a large ballast box. You must be picking a lot of weight to lift loaded tires that big - seems like you would have to experiment with how much weight on the three point hitch.

Nice tractors by the way - must be a good contract.

 

[tractorsanmore]

Kubota site lists the weights at 164lbs ea up to 3 per side , so with hardware to mount them you would be at 500 lbs per side or 1000lbs total . They also list a ballast box for 575 $ , no weight listed for it . To me a heavy duty hyd . rear blade would be the best option , although the most expensive .

 

[Timber]

Thanks for the mention, Here is the ballast I made for my tractor. I put 800 lbs of cement and rebar in a 55 gallon drum. I am sure you can put a 1000 lbs in it. I have a nice lid on the drum so the cement is about 8 inches from the top. I keep it full of chain and cable slings. The 1 think I would do different is I would set the rod at a hight close enough that the drum could have added support from the draw bar rather than relying on the 3 point lift arms. I am sure it would never be a problem but the draw bar is right there. I have no problem plowing snow or stability with forks. The drum fits in tight between the wheels. I usually have a box blade on using the loader because they are companion pieces but for any heavy lifting and moving at speed with a load I use the drum for stability. I am not a fan of loaded tires personally. There are time I want the tractor very lite for field cutting and work in the woods when I want a soft foot print. I should also mention that because of where the rod goes through the drum at just above center I have no need to use a top link. If you watch the snow plow link you can see it doesn't move at all. This is the best ballast I have for its size and shape. By the way the snow I am moving in the video is the same storm you are talking about in the original post

 

[Modn]

This is what I did for ballast. I didn't like the look of a barrel filled with concrete, but that's just my taste. I constructed a form and inserted my catagory 2 bar and welded in the trailer receiver so I could at least pull a trailer with it. I also welded 2-2" angle iron back to back at an angle to receive the 3rd member with a pin. I also stuck in 2-3" pvc pieces with drain holes in the bottom along with 2-2" pieces which is great to haul the saws and tools back into the woods. There is just enough room for the basket in between as pictured to haul the chains, gas, oil, and whatever I can fit in it. It will stay there all day and not come out. It ends up being 1300 # which is just enough to keep my tail on the ground along with my tires loaded when I max out my loader. All in all in works great for me and is very easy to drop anywhere and hook back up if I need to.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=152911&stc=1&d=1264263839

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=152912&stc=1&d=1264263841

 

[bstrom]

Nice, looks like you've got the whole outfit on there. I never know where to put all that stuff when getting firewood out, it ends up all over the ground. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[bstrom]

Thanks for the mention, Here is the ballast I made for my tractor. I put 800 lbs of cement and rebar in a 55 gallon drum. I am sure you can put a 1000 lbs in it. I have a nice lid on the drum so the cement is about 8 inches from the top. I keep it full of chain and cable slings. The 1 think I would do different is I would set the rod at a hight close enough that the drum could have added support from the draw bar rather than relying on the 3 point lift arms. I am sure it would never be a problem but the draw bar is right there. I have no problem plowing snow or stability with forks. The drum fits in tight between the wheels. I usually have a box blade on using the loader because they are companion pieces but for any heavy lifting and moving at speed with a load I use the drum for stability. I am not a fan of loaded tires personally. There are time I want the tractor very lite for field cutting and work in the woods when I want a soft foot print. I should also mention that because of where the rod goes through the drum at just above center I have no need to use a top link. If you watch the snow plow link you can see it doesn't move at all. This is the best ballast I have for its size and shape. By the way the snow I am moving in the video is the same storm you are talking about in the original post

Nice! I like the idea of the lid and leaving room for storage. How's the steering when plowing snow with the 800 lbs hanging off there?

 

[Timber]

Nice! I like the idea of the lid and leaving room for storage. How's the steering when plowing snow with the 800 lbs hanging off there?

Steering has not been a problem at all, I don't use any chains & one of my neighbors his drive is not flat at all. I did however have a night last week or so I came home to 2 inches of slush snow pack. I pushed everything to the street. It was very heavy and when I went to push the end of the drive It was to dense to move at once & it kicked at the plow angle. I had to move it in 2 parts. The 800 lbs takes no wt off the front axle at all. I know that was 1 of the concerns

 

[CosmoAU]

Nice pic Timber. My grandad's was similar except... no lid, concrete wasn't all the way to the top like yours also. Most of the metal was rusted away so it looked more like a chunk of concrete shaped like a drum. I guess it was really only similar in idea. I wish I had a picture. It was a classic southern implement.