JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224?

   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224? #1  

AKfish

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JD 5115M; JD 110 TLB; JD 4720; Ford 9N; JD X300R
Anyone have experience with the JD 24T baler or the JD 224? Is one model better or worse than the other? Either one have "major character flaws"...?

Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

AKfish
 
   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224? #2  
I baled a lot of bales with a 24T at the neighbors as a kid and currently own one. I am quite pleased with their capacity and hardiness.
 
   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224? #3  
Anyone have experience with the JD 24T baler or the JD 224? Is one model better or worse than the other? Either one have "major character flaws"...?

Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

AKfish

I used a 24t for many years on 100+ acres a year until i updated to a 336 newer a more capisity maybe,but thee 336 doesnt make a consistent bale in length or weight.If I wasnt baling 90% of crop with round baler I would be looking for another 24t
 
   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I used a 24t for many years on 100+ acres a year until i updated to a 336 newer a more capisity maybe,but thee 336 doesnt make a consistent bale in length or weight.If I wasnt baling 90% of crop with round baler I would be looking for another 24t

Well, that's a pretty solid vote for the 24t! Thanks.

AKfish
 
   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224? #5  
There are big differences between the 24T and the 224T. The T simply means it is a twine baler instead of wire tie. The 24 was the light duty and the 224 was the heavy duty. Pick ups were the same size, but the plungers and chutes were completely different. Knotter are identical from the 14T through the early 337 and 347. At some time in the **7 series JD went to split knotters. The light duty 24T has the plunger on skid blocks on steel rails, and the 224 has bearings holding most of the weight of the plunger other then the far front right corner. The 224 plunger design is still the same basic design that JD still uses today. 24 usually had a mechanical thrower if it had one, and the 224 had the hyrdaulic 30 that was used on the 336 and 346 and some in the 337 and 347. 224 has a few more strokes per minute also.

The gentle men having trouble with his 336 and consistency, that is usually caused by the operator. All balers have the same situation with knotter trips. Once the guage wheel trips the knotter, the baler puts one more flake on before it ties. This is just the way they all are. If you are make small flakes say the normal 2-3 inches thick, no big deal, but if you are really jambing it down the baler, you can add even as much as 6-8 inches in a single flake. It is up to the operator to be evenly feeding hay into the baler. If the operator is in a hurry, bales will become irregular. Windrow size and how fast it is being feed has lots to do with it also.

In a JD baler with the auger feeding into the feeder finger, there are a few tricks. First try to pick up the hay on the right side of the pick up as much as possible. Second the hay should be standing up behind the auger just infront of the feeder fingers. If it is not you are not putting enough hay in, either pick up your ground speed or make bigger windrows. If the hay starts coming over the front of the auger, the opposite is true, slow down.

Any other questions, just ask away.
 
   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Well said... more detail than I hoped for and very appreciated. Thanks.

I seem to recall a comment hereabouts (TBN) regarding an early JD model baler that had a inherent problem that was near impossible to correct - and I thought it was the 224.

Your description of the design features of the 224 and JD's use of improved components (bearings vs metal on metal) has me wondering if it's the 24 that is the weaker machine.

Thanks again.

AKfish
 
   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224? #7  
The 24T is definitely the weaker machine. It was lighter duty from its very inception. The older model 14T made before the 24 was a real piece of junk. The way the squeezer chute was made it just did not work well and you got a lot of bounce back that caused all kinds of knotter problems. 14T was the first baler I ever owned, big mistake. Then I bought a 24T that was completely worn out. Thought I could bring it back, but I thought wrong. Sold the 14T to a hobby farmer who really wanted it, and scrapped out the 24T (Yes it was that bad off. Paid plenty of stupid tax on that machine. Still have the knotters on the shelf for spare parts though.) Now I use two 336's. They are fine balers if you know what you are doing, but this is the case with any equipment.

If you can find a 224T in good shape and ready to go to work they still bring 1500-2000. A 24T in good shape is worth 400-800. enough said.
 
   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224? #8  
Well said... more detail than I hoped for and very appreciated. Thanks.

I seem to recall a comment hereabouts (TBN) regarding an early JD model baler that had a inherent problem that was near impossible to correct - and I thought it was the 224.

Your description of the design features of the 224 and JD's use of improved components (bearings vs metal on metal) has me wondering if it's the 24 that is the weaker machine.

Thanks again.

AKfish

I believe the problem that you have read about is the hay pick-up system on the 14T is not the greatest. There were some dealer add-on kits and even home-brew add-ons that make it work somewhat better - but still not perfect even with the add-ons. That said, I would not hesitate to purchase a 14T if the price was right and it were in good shape - limiting the application to a small time hay operation of course.

Now if I was paying top dollar I think I would prefer the 24T or the 224. I believe I have read that the newer 24T has a better pick-up as compared to 14T as well as additional safety shields that the 14T lacks - otherwise they are rather similar machines. Also, Deere has sorta dis-continued many of the 14T parts by instead only offering the newer 24T parts that sometimes require some modifications to retrofit them on the 14T.

I personally have not read a lot about the 224 other than to know that it replaced the 24T so it probably has more refinements and capacity so it may or may not require a little more hp to run it. (FWIW I have limited my reading and research to low capacity balers that can be run with small hp tractors and be purchased cheaply. The 14T and 24T definitely apply to my criteria, but I am not sure on the 224. That said, if I remember correctly you have a big enough tractor to run a 224 so it would not be an issue for you.)
 
   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks for the info. Maybe it was the pickup problems. Think someone complained that even the modifications didn't really solve the issue.

I found a 224 with the Wisconsin engine. Only 17hp. My 110 is just a horse from double that at the pto.

My hay operation is really small scale. About 15 acres and (if it's a good year) 750 bales. So, I could likely do OK with either the 24T or the 224.

But.. if one or the other had some defect - I don't want to buy it unless I know the fixes ahead of time; or what to be on the lookout for.

Thanks again.

AKfish
 
   / JD 24T baler problems.. or was it the 224? #10  
New to this site. the question I have may be unrelated to this thread but maybe someone may be able to help. 224t baler. The twine guides on the needles are badly worn and I'm thinking on replacing them with wire tie guides. Will this work ok for me? the twine guide is pretty much stationary and wire guides are bearing type and will rotate. is there some kind of reason why John deere design the difference between the twine and wire this way?

thanks
bill davis
 

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