looking into buying a 151d - help!

[Ron67]

Wouldn't that be nice if the wheels were the steering problem -!!!! I won't get my hopes up because it's not my tractor yet, but I'll pass along the info and swap them back if I take delivery. The owner states no rhyme or reason to the problem - just yanks out of your hand every once in a while, then straightens back up. ??? He did state there is no muffler, but I had planned on running one parallel with the ground with a turndown at the end like a Kubota. Would that be enough to keep water out? I have a welder and a grinder so I can do all sorts of damage. Also considered making my own ROPS. Advisable? Anyone done it and have advise. I've prayed about this deal so much that I have to leave it in God's hands now. If he wills it, I'll have a new tractor. Thanks again guys! Let me know if you notice anything else!

 

[Ron67]

A few more pics.

 

[MJPetersen]

Wouldn't that be nice if the wheels were the steering problem -!!!!

I also doubt that is the problem, although it would be a major added leverage for any ruts or uneven ground to take revenge on the steering linkage. with them wide the tires are not just pivoting around a point, but rather rolling around an arc and the distance of the radius of the arc is the increased leverage that the tires have. I know that it does not take that much to make the tires try to turn on their own when the tires are normal.

He did state there is no muffler, but I had planned on running one parallel with the ground with a turndown at the end like a Kubota.

The actual Yanmar muffler can be horizontal. The exhaust flange is a square so the mount can be rotated 90 degrees and bolted back on, like in the first pic below. This is of a 186, but it is possible on the 1510 also. California has a muffler like this on his 186 also.

I have a welder and a grinder so I can do all sorts of damage.

I have made most of my implements that I use. You can check them out in the "build it yourself forum. The links are in my signature.

Also considered making my own ROPS. Advisable?

If I were in the States I would buy a ROPS for my tractor. Then you are sure that you are getting a design that has been tested and is safe. All the dealers will have them. I see for example that LMTC has it for $629 made for the 1510. That would sure save a lot of cutting and fitting and give a whole bunch more confidence in the final product. You might be able to make it for less, but not that much less and it would take a bunch of time. Use your energies for making things by making some implements to use with your tractor.

Your first pic. [Calif how did you put the thumbnail here in this situation?]
It looks like the loader install got the hyd directly off the pump and uses a QD. I would be afraid I would get in brush or something and the QD would come disconnected and result in one ruined pump. NEVER start or even run the starter with that QD disconnected as serious damage can result from the dead head situation.

I also do not see the Thermal Start cup? It is the translucent plastic bottle beside the radiator hose in the second pic below. There is a larger bottle which is the overflow for the cooling, but the one I am talking about for the TS is below the radiator hose in the pic.

Third picture
The 4 wheel drive lever is way too far forward and down compared to mine and others when the 4 wheel drive is engaged it is forward, but not to that extent. Compare the relative positions of the lever in this picture to the one you posted pictures of. The lever with the red knob on the left of the tunnel is the 4 wd lever.

Mike

 

[normde2001]

If I were selling that tractor I would fix it first. You could be paying top dollar for someone elses mess. The reversed wheels are not the problem but they very easily could have caused it.

 

[mus302]

I also do not see the Thermal Start cup? It is the translucent plastic bottle beside the radiator hose in the second pic below. There is a larger bottle which is the overflow for the cooling, but the one I am talking about for the TS is below the radiator hose in the pic.

Good spot on that. It looks like the bracket that holds the TS cup is also missing. And since the spring that returns the decompression attaches to that bracket, it is also missing. I guess that is why the decompression seems to sticking out so far.

 

[California]

[Calif how did you put the thumbnail here in this situation?]

Magic!

This is easier if you have two browser windows open. One to copy from, and the other showing the 'Reply' edit box.

In the window showing the thumbnail you want to copy, right-click the thumbnail and 'copy image location'. This stores the URL in your buffer.

Then go to the window that has the 'Reply' screen open. Click the photo icon above the edit box. Hit (CTL-V) to paste the URL of the thumbnail (not the picture that the thumbnail will fetch) from your buffer, into your draft.

Now that the thumbnail is in your draft, highlight it, press the 'link' icon, and paste in the URL of the larger photo. (Obtain that URL of the larger photo by right-clicking within the larger photo while viewing it over in that other window and 'copy image location'.)


I'm not convinced this model needs a Thermostart. My YM186D starts instantly on the first cylinder to hit compression, in any weather I've tried, down to about 44 degrees. Thermostart used, or not, makes no difference at all. If your tractor is coming from a local source the previous owner may say he never needed it in that climate. I wouldn't bother adding unneeded complexity. (Or it might be like my YM240, more cold blooded, where after I filled it with biodiesel it needs the Thermostart in any weather to ignite the stuff on the first start of the day).

 

[careyo63]

Never used my TS and still don't need to. I posted this earlier how to make a TS> bowl self primeing on the Real cheap, works great HF. 5.00$.

MJ. On the ROP's that price is more than what the one's for my Ym2000 was Quoted UTDA and installed. Is there more needed for a smaller 4wd. tractor ?

Carey

 

[MJPetersen]

MJ. On the ROP's that price is more than what the one's for my Ym2000 was Quoted UTDA and installed. Is there more needed for a smaller 4wd. tractor ?

You know, I do not know what exactly is involved, but the ROPS for the 186 and 1510 ($629) is more than that for the 2000 ($589) and it weighs 60 lbs more than for the ROPS for the 2000. The ROPS for the 2000 fits lots of different tractors too but the 1510 only fits the 186 and 1510. So maybe it is the combination of more material and more limited sales of a design. Probably if you were buying a tractor from Wayne he would cut a deal on the ROPS too as I know that he is a big believer in them. He is a UTDA dealer.

Thanks For the picture information. I had taken the first step, but now it makes sense for the second. Thanks.

I remember reading about your "TS" adaptation. You are right California, he may never need it. I know that I do and have used it a lot this winter in plowing snow. I got it started here when it was -10 F but the fuel was so full of paraffin that plugged the fuel filter in short order. (fuel that was supposedly rated for -20 F) I decided it was too cold to work anyway, so just put it back to bed and went inside. :>

Mike

 

[California]

... too cold to work anyway, so just put it back to bed and went inside. -Mike

Makes sense to me!

This here is a mild 'Mediterranean' climate, only hits freezing a few days per year. No snow.

I don't go out and use the tractor below 45 degrees, preferably 50 if I have a choice.