Hey MF RED in MT...I understand that you want to provide the best in fluids and lubricants for your tractor...I think we all do, but, in the interest of the folks who roam these pages looking for good, useful and sometimes cheap (not everyone has the money to use synthetics and brand name) information, let me add this: I am not a farmer, but have retired to an agricultural area. Seeing the plight of the American farmer and having befriended quite a few of them has made me fully aware that a lot of people are having it rough right now. I joined this site because I see a lot of information being lauded on here as fact, when in all actuality it is just a particular individual's opinion. If we can afford to go "top notch" then I am all for it. I just don't want people looking for information regarding the servicing of their tractor to get the impression that all of this "high dollar" stuff is necessary. Take anti-freeze/coolant for instance. Brand name vs. no name is all about marketing to folks that think costlier is better. Ethylene Glycol is a federally regulated chemical formulary...it has no brand. Just like bleach is a chemical formulary (NAOCL). The CLO__X is no more effective than the generic...the only wiggle room for branding a chemical formulary is in the use of certain additives (primarily dyes and surfactants). We don't have to use Zerex, Peak, etc., but can chose to do so. But for the average tractor owner petroleum based products and regular antifreeze will serve them well. They can use what is recommended by their manufacturer and feel just as confident in the longevity of their machine as the rest of us...diesel tractor technology hasn't really changed all that much in the past 20 years or so. Of course, we'll all be using hybrid or electric tractors at the next evolution of tractor technology so it's probably a moot point anyway. Suits me fine...I need the gas for my F350 V10 w/4.30 gears. Anyway, I'm not knocking you for your choice, I just want those on a budget to know it is not a necessary expense.Hey everyone, I am preplanning for my 50 hour service for this summer and I think I have found the grease, and fluids that I will be using? I have been searching here on TBN and also most of the major oil companys, and there is a lot of different information out there
1). Engine Oil: MF Mutiguard, MIL-L-46152, API Service CC; SAE 10w, 20w,
30w, 10w-30, and 15w-40 (these SAE's are for different temps).
Plan to use Amsoil Synthetic 10w-30/30w Heavy Duty Diesel
Oil (3 US qts. equals $24).
2). Transmission, Differential Housing, and Front Axle: MF Permatran lll.
Plan to use Amsoil Syn. Tractor Hydradulic/Transmission Oil;
SAE 5w-30 (ATH) (Trans/Diff. Housing and Front Axle equals 17 US qts.
$136).
3). MF2360 Snowblower Gearbox: AGMA 5EP, SAE 80w-90 gear oil.
Plan to use Amsoil Syn. Gear Lube SAE 80-90 (unknown amount,
1 US qt.equals $9.20).
4). Grease Fittings: MF M-1105 lithium base grease No. 2.
Using Valvoline Syn Power, NGLI #2 GC-LB Lithium Complex EP
Grease has moly-fortified ingredients to increase
film strength, lubricates at temperatures ranging from -40F to 400F
(14.1oz tube at Napa equals $5.99).
5). Engine Coolant: 50/50 mixture ethylene glycol and water (-30F).
Plan to use Zerex Original Green Antifreeze/Coolant (4.9 US qts
at a 55/45 mixture equals -34F).
6). I have not researched the Amsoil Filters so I so not know yet if I will use
them or Napa, orthe MF Filters.
(MF oil filter is $11.50 / MF trans filter is $26.62)
I would like your advise regarding the oil and
transmission filter products
Please let me know what you think of my choices and any products that you use or would consider using? I hope this thread can help others with their services they do on their tractors. Thanks, KC
. KC
Absolutely! I wasn't disagreeing with you at all...I use some syn.'s as well...wasn't trying to hog your thread, It's just that I have some friends (farmers) who rely on this forum for information and have complained about everyone seeming to advocate the most expensive solutions to the simplest problems. I thought that folks reading should know that what's specified in their tractor's manual is more than adequate if they can't afford the extra expense of some of the more modern fluids. I used to just lurk on here, but decided to start chiming in for the little guy who needs inexpensive advice. Folding money is hard for some people to come up with nowadays. So, it wasn't a dig at you at all...hope you didn't take it that way.Hey mustangsallysdad, I know that synthetic fluids are not required for any of my tractor maintenance services, but I have searched TBN and other websites about tractor fluids and have decided to use them. That is why this thread reads "GC2410 50 hr. service and synthetic fluids". You have a very good point about using cheaper fluids and I hope you will start a new thread about that.
Everybody seems to have a strong opinion on TBN about reg. oil vs. syn. oil, no tire chains vs. rear rear chains vs. front and rear tire chains, R1 tires vs. R3 tires vs. R4 tires, Red vs. Green vs. Orange, and etc...etc... - and my point is when the thread starts to go off topic, it makes it more difficult to gain the information listed under the thread. If you feel like it, go ahead and add whatever information to this thread about general fluid products, but for me adding a name brand does not hurt the information provided
Hey again, MF RED in MT...did you see the oil filter suggestion...I've been using a Fram PH4386 for some years now and they're less than $4.Hey mustangsallysdad, I know that synthetic fluids are not required for any of my tractor maintenance services, but I have searched TBN and other websites about tractor fluids and have decided to use them. That is why this thread reads "GC2410 50 hr. service and synthetic fluids". You have a very good point about using cheaper fluids and I hope you will start a new thread about that.
Everybody seems to have a strong opinion on TBN about reg. oil vs. syn. oil, no tire chains vs. rear rear chains vs. front and rear tire chains, R1 tires vs. R3 tires vs. R4 tires, Red vs. Green vs. Orange, and etc...etc... - and my point is when the thread starts to go off topic, it makes it more difficult to gain the information listed under the thread. If you feel like it, go ahead and add whatever information to this thread about general fluid products, but for me adding a name brand does not hurt the information provided
Well said...however, it's not always that simple...seems that the dealers around here have a "habit" of suddenly extolling the virtues of a new "synthetic" this and a new "synthetic" that which just so happens to have just become available through the dealer network. Some of the older guys get confused as to what is needed and what is a luxury. Seems that the dealers flip-flopping about what is best (just to make more $$$) muddies the water. They like it simple and straightforward. And that, of course, is MY opinion. Why does every topic turn into a pis**ng match on here. Too much speculation and not enough fact.
The post was CLEARLY not in regard to MF RED in MT...if you re-read my response it was to advise those that might be on a budget as to whether or not brand names and syn.'s are necessary for general use. A bottle of 20 test strips should be sufficient for 10 years of use assuming the recommended check interval of twice a year (spring and fall). The argument could be made that DCA isn't even necessary in that it isn't covered in the owner's manual. Again, I'm advocating for the little guy on a budget and no one should take it personally if a readily available, cheaper alternative is brought to light. So, is a generic DCA any good? Don't know...but it is available for someone who may want to try it and doesn't have the cash for the brand name stuff.
