2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$

   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$ #31  
First off, Ford's sparkplug change intervals are 100,000 miles and most often the platinum plugs will go at LEAST 30% further than that w/o any problems at all.

Second, DO NOT apply antisieze, oil etc to sparkplugs in Al cylinder heads, EVER! The Ford service manual even advises against this (common but wrong) practice.

Factory Motorcraft plugs have a Nickel coating on the threads to reduce the likelyhood of rusting the threads to the head, NO aftermarket plugs do!

People who "steam clean" their engine bays are MUCH more likely to have this problem than those that don't. We can all figure out why.

The 4.6L/5.4L and 6.8L "modular" Ford engines can ALL suffer from this problem, as well as "blow-out" of the pulg from the head. Blow-out is generally from chitty gas and high engine loads that cause "spark knock", knock bad enough to get peak cylinder pressures to as much as 2 to 3 times the design limits - POOF, a plug is ejected.

I have had 4.6L engines since 1993 (Town Car) and have never had a stuck or blown out plug - yet. I follow Ford's service intervals and get a minimum of 200,000 miles out of my vehicles.

Now, there is an "SRT" for R&R of both cylinder heads and the cost of new heads is known (and CHEAP!). There is ABSOLUTELY ZERO reason for the STEALership to "not know" how much the bill will be.

Ford's torque specification on the sparkplugs ranges from 13lb-ft to 18 lb-ft depending on the model year for all the "modular" V-8 and V-10 2-valve engines. I can assure everyone that either under or over torquing the plugs will be expensive.

BTW, I can R&R a PAIR of heads in under 8 hours, total and complete.
 
   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$ #32  
People who "steam clean" their engine bays are MUCH more likely to have this problem than those that don't. We can all figure out why.

A year ago last month I bought a 2002 Crown Victoria with less than 42k miles on it. It ran OK for a brief test drive and I bought it on a Saturday afternoon. Less than 2 days later, on Monday, it started missing, running rough, etc. And water around one of the plugs from their engine cleaning was the problem.
 
   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$ #33  
I must be missing something

hire mechanic he/she gives you estimate on pulling both heads which is worst case scenerio

then the try to remove plugs from non broken head to see if the can without at least pulling that head

then at worst they pull both heads pull plugs or just swap out the heads which must be a dime a dozen used and you are good to go

with the way times are today I find it impossible to believe that there is not a factory mechanic out there looking for some nice cash on the side

a couple of years ago before the recession I had my jd 350c reverser rebuilt for approximately 750 labor which included pulling the motor pulling reverser and then complete tear down and reassembly of reverser

the guy was a top notch Deere mechanic who made extra income for his family doing such work at night and on the weekends

I'd put a request on craigs or the like there's got to be some super slow ford dealership's out there

Joel
 
   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Joel, I have the truck at a shop now and the mechanic has the plugs soaking in penetrating fluid over the weekend. Another posted commented this would not really do anything to help "unseize" them, but hey it certainly can't hurt. Monday the mechanic will attempt to get the other 7 plugs out without breaking them off. If successful, we will only have to deal with the one plug that is already broke off. If he breaks one or more plugs off, then almost certainly he will have to pull the heads. My preference is to just pull the heads off, send to machine shop to get the plugs out and clean up threads, then simply put each head back on the bank that it came off of. That should work, right?????? I don't plan to rebuild the motor for this particular situation, unless it just comes to that.
 
   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$ #35  
Joel, I have the truck at a shop now and the mechanic has the plugs soaking in penetrating fluid over the weekend. Another posted commented this would not really do anything to help "unseize" them, but hey it certainly can't hurt. Monday the mechanic will attempt to get the other 7 plugs out without breaking them off. If successful, we will only have to deal with the one plug that is already broke off. If he breaks one or more plugs off, then almost certainly he will have to pull the heads. My preference is to just pull the heads off, send to machine shop to get the plugs out and clean up threads, then simply put each head back on the bank that it came off of. That should work, right?????? I don't plan to rebuild the motor for this particular situation, unless it just comes to that.

If you pull the heads, I'd get the steel inserts (Helicoil or equivalent) installed while the heads are off the block.
 
   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$ #36  
Joel, I have the truck at a shop now and the mechanic has the plugs soaking in penetrating fluid over the weekend. Another posted commented this would not really do anything to help "unseize" them, but hey it certainly can't hurt. Monday the mechanic will attempt to get the other 7 plugs out without breaking them off. If successful, we will only have to deal with the one plug that is already broke off. If he breaks one or more plugs off, then almost certainly he will have to pull the heads. My preference is to just pull the heads off, send to machine shop to get the plugs out and clean up threads, then simply put each head back on the bank that it came off of. That should work, right?????? I don't plan to rebuild the motor for this particular situation, unless it just comes to that.

I think you plan sounds good. I would have the mechanic start the truck, bring it up to temp, then allow it too cool off to where he can touch the manifolds. I would then attempt to remove only by turning 1/4 to 1/2 turn then re-soaking them for 4 hours then try to take them out. If they give any resistance try going slowly from tightening to un-tightening. This should work them free as long as they do not break.

If not just pull the heads and do as you said.

Chris
 
   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$ #37  
Joel, I have the truck at a shop now and the mechanic has the plugs soaking in penetrating fluid over the weekend. Another posted commented this would not really do anything to help "unseize" them, but hey it certainly can't hurt. Monday the mechanic will attempt to get the other 7 plugs out without breaking them off. If successful, we will only have to deal with the one plug that is already broke off. If he breaks one or more plugs off, then almost certainly he will have to pull the heads. My preference is to just pull the heads off, send to machine shop to get the plugs out and clean up threads, then simply put each head back on the bank that it came off of. That should work, right?????? I don't plan to rebuild the motor for this particular situation, unless it just comes to that.

Hopefully you wont have to pull the heads.

The tool i posted earlier works quite well in removing broken plugs. id say 75% or more can be removed with the special tools.

It would be a heck of alot easier to fix the broken plugs over removing the head, even if you got to buy the special tool
 
   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$ #38  
First off, Ford's sparkplug change intervals are 100,000 miles and most often the platinum plugs will go at LEAST 30% further than that w/o any problems at all.

Second, DO NOT apply antisieze, oil etc to sparkplugs in Al cylinder heads, EVER! The Ford service manual even advises against this (common but wrong) practice.

Factory Motorcraft plugs have a Nickel coating on the threads to reduce the likelyhood of rusting the threads to the head, NO aftermarket plugs do!

Thank you.

I have a 2000 F-150 which has 88k miles. I was intending to change the plugs myself and even bought 8 Autolite plugs about a month ago. I thought $32 was robbery. Anyway, went out to change them one afternoon and...whoops...this does not look like any spark plug setup I have ever seen.

Came back in and looked up how to change them on the internet and discovered why this might not be such a good idea.

Now I know a few things.

1. Those Autolites are a medium-expensive doorstop, I will look for a Ford dealer who will put Motorcrafts in.

2. I am not going to even start looking until I hit 120k miles.

3. I am going to discuss liability, who pays for what if the removal of the old ones fails, and get everything in writing before work starts.
 
   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Curly, I would suggest you pull one of your COP packs off and use a flashlight to look down inside the well where the plug sits in. If things look rusty & corroded down at the bottom of it, beware!! In fact, you might want to check several of them, at least the ones that can be removed easily enough without have to undo a fuel rail to gain some clearance. If it looks relatively clean, you might just want to even go as far as to get a breaker bar and try to see if you can wiggle the plug free, using the technique that diamondpilot suggested. If it comes loose easily enough, then you should be ok. Just don't let it go long enough to get into the situation I'm in.
 
   / 2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$ #40  
Thank you.

I have a 2000 F-150 which has 88k miles. I was intending to change the plugs myself and even bought 8 Autolite plugs about a month ago. I thought $32 was robbery. Anyway, went out to change them one afternoon and...whoops...this does not look like any spark plug setup I have ever seen.

Came back in and looked up how to change them on the internet and discovered why this might not be such a good idea.

Now I know a few things.

1. Those Autolites are a medium-expensive doorstop, I will look for a Ford dealer who will put Motorcrafts in.

2. I am not going to even start looking until I hit 120k miles.

3. I am going to discuss liability, who pays for what if the removal of the old ones fails, and get everything in writing before work starts.

My 01 F150 (4.6L Triton) still has 5 original plugs as I approach 100K miles (97500 now). The other three were replaced when the COPs modules crapped out (#6 at 47200 miles, #7 at 57000 miles, #8 at 73000 miles). At the time these plugs were replaced I had no idea of the problems other Ford owners have had with busted plugs.

I really detest this COPs design and I hate aluminum heads.
 

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