Top and Tilt Question

cycle_gator · Mar 2, 2010

So, I am thinking about adding hydraulic top and tilt to my L4310. At the same time I will add a triple spool control for three rear remotes and I am considering the characteristics I want in the spools. Right now the topic is, do I want float with a detent? But I am also considering top and tilt with a double checked pilot valve (I think that is what its called:thumbsup

. My question, if I place the spool in the float detent will cylinders equipped with the piloted check valves actually float? Or will they only float in the absence of the check valve?

kennyd · Mar 2, 2010

Cylinders equipped with DPOCV,s (dual pilot operated check valves) will NOT float...

MtnViewRanch · Mar 2, 2010

What type of grading-smoothing will you be doing? The reason that I ask is if the terrain is right, it works great to have the tilt cylinder in float mode.:thumbsup: With certain circumstances and certain desired results, it is much easier to achieve the desired result with the tilt cylinder in float mode. Something else to consider is if you are going to use the top link to lift, say a rear blade a little higher for transport, it is nice to have the valve with detent. That way you can just push the lever to the detent and it will automatically lift and then shut off. You don't have to hold the lever until the unit is lifted. It's not a big deal, but it is convenient.

jinman · Mar 2, 2010

I would not consider the float feature as anything I'd ever want for the toplink, but maybe the sidelink. If you want the sidelink to float, then just get a sidelink without the DPOCV and use it with your float detent remote. Remember, your 3PH lift arms are always in the float mode anyhow for up and down, but if you want side-to-side tilt float, then your choosing a remote with the float detent and non-DPOCV is a good choice. I think the perfect setup of remotes would be to have the float detent feature only on your sidelink and the other two as non-float detent type. It's too bad we can't have a maximum flow detent on the non-float type so we don't have to bungee the control lever when we use a 3PH log-splitter.

MtnViewRanch · Mar 2, 2010

I have float & detents on all 3 of my factory rear remotes on my 7520. Although I may not use all of them in all of their positions, it does not hurt to have the capability. Some guys in the past have said that they will put the top link in float mode when hooking up to an implement so that they can just pull the end to where they need it to hook the top link up. Now I do not do that, but if you were to, you could not do that with DPOCVs.

You can have a valve with detents with out having a float position. Most people associate detent and float together which they usually are, but you can have a detent without having the float position.

cycle_gator · Mar 4, 2010

Gentlemen (at least I assume you are all gentlemen, brave, I know)

Thanks so much for your thoughts on this topic. Perhaps if someone could offer one more piece of advice, is there a way to bypass a piloted double check valve so that the cylinder operates normally when in bypass and as a check valve when enagaged, or would it be easier to just have two different tilt cylinders?

Thanks again.

DiskDoctr · Mar 4, 2010

cycle_gator said:
Gentlemen (at least I assume you are all gentlemen, brave, I know)

Thanks so much for your thoughts on this topic. Perhaps if someone could offer one more piece of advice, is there a way to bypass a piloted double check valve so that the cylinder operates normally when in bypass and as a check valve when enagaged, or would it be easier to just have two different tilt cylinders?

Thanks again.

Do you just want to lock the cylinder in a position, or do you want full check valve capability?

I recently saw a manually operated check valve with a lever to engage, but didn't look closely enough to tell which way it operated. I'll see if I can find it again.

- JC

kennyd · Mar 4, 2010

cycle_gator said:
Gentlemen (at least I assume you are all gentlemen, brave, I know)

Thanks so much for your thoughts on this topic. Perhaps if someone could offer one more piece of advice, is there a way to bypass a piloted double check valve so that the cylinder operates normally when in bypass and as a check valve when enagaged, or would it be easier to just have two different tilt cylinders?

Thanks again.

IMHO, it would be easier to have two different cylinders if you absolutely needed the HTL to float, but I like others don't see the need for it.

jinman · Mar 4, 2010

kennyd said:
IMHO, it would be easier to have two different cylinders if you absolutely needed the HTL to float, but I like others don't see the need for it.

I'm with you Kenny. If you want float, you can make a float adapter like the ones on rotary cutters. If you want no float, you can use a standard toplink. If you want super float on a rotary cutter, you can just use a length of chain instead of the toplink. Nothing is going to give you best in every circumstance, but I think a DPOCV on the toplink gives you the most in one package. I guess I'm lucky with my toplink in that I can reach over the rear fender and grab my remote lever to adjust the toplink for easy hookup. I never feel like I need it to float.

MtnViewRanch · Mar 4, 2010

cycle_gator said:
Gentlemen (at least I assume you are all gentlemen, brave, I know)

Thanks so much for your thoughts on this topic. Perhaps if someone could offer one more piece of advice, is there a way to bypass a piloted double check valve so that the cylinder operates normally when in bypass and as a check valve when enagaged, or would it be easier to just have two different tilt cylinders?

Thanks again.