Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics)

   / Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics) #11  
I've used copper sulfate in my pond in the past. It does take care of the algae but you really need to follow the directions.

Too much of that stuff can kill your fish.

I'd be interested in any research you do on a fountain/aerator. I've kicked that idea area too but never done anything.


Ted Lea at ForeverGreen is in your neck of the woods. He can share his expertise in aeration. I have no commercial interest, but have had him give me advise prior to purchasing my system. You could probably drive over to his place and see first hand how the systems work.

Good luck.
 
   / Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics) #13  
A few breeding pairs of Tilapia will take care of your filamentatious algae and they make good eating also. Note that they will die off each year if water temps get below about 65 F. They breed faster than rats and eat only algae. They babies would also make good food for a bass population. Your breeding pair must be large enough so that any predator fish cant eat them. We used them in our pond last year and it dramatically reduced the moss problem much more so than the carp.
 
   / Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics) #14  
You can't be serious.

Why not, did you check out the price? A jumbo bale will treat no more then 20,000gal of water @ $104.00 per bale. My smaller pond hold close to a million gal. I'd need atleast 50 bales that comes to $5,200.00. Now take into account I would have to buy 50 bales every year. Lets say an aerator will last for 10 years at around $2,000.00 one time cost. 10yrs on the jumbo bales would come to $52,000.00. The difference for a 10yr period would be $50,000.00, so yes I would say WOW those are expensive. :) Cut the bales in half{$26,000.00} or even quarter{$13,000.00} still expensive. Maybe I'm figure something wrong :drool: would not be the 1st time. I did take the info from the site and used their prices and suggested usage.
 
   / Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics)
  • Thread Starter
#15  
   / Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics) #16  
How deep is the pond? Shallow ponds warm up and encourage algae growth more than deep ponds. Here locally, the soil and water people recommend that the half the pond be at least 8' deep.

What surrounds the pond? If it is grass, DO NOT fertilize the grass! Those nutrients that make the grass green wash into the water and make it grow green too!

Aeration and chemicals will help as will some algae eating fish.

Ken
 
   / Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics)
  • Thread Starter
#17  
How deep is the pond?

Ken

1/2 of it is up to 12' deep, but 2'-6' in about 1/2 the pond.

What surrounds the pond? If it is grass, DO NOT fertilize the grass! Those nutrients that make the grass green wash into the water and make it grow green too!
Ken

I planted grass and used fertilizer on 3 sides of the pond last year because it was a new pond and I needed to get grass to prevent washing, I wont be using and this year for sure.

Aeration and chemicals will help as will some algae eating fish.

Ken

I will aerate if I have to! What chemicals do you recommend Ken? Just want to explore all my options? :thumbsup:
 
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   / Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics) #18  
I've never used chemicals, so I can't answer that very well. I believe there are two classes: one which is non toxic, just blocks the sunlight from reaching the bottom and encouraging plant growth. That won't help with floating problems like algae and duckweed. Others are actually herbicides that will kill plant growth.

You might contact your local soil and water conservation people, they might come out and give you some specific recommendations.

Ken
 
   / Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics) #19  
Having worked as a sales rep for a Herbicide/Pesticide manufacturer in Houston for a number of years....I would second the mention of Copper Sulfate. You can purchase the blue crystaline form in various packaged quantities from most farm supplies. If you are stocking fish in your pond the CS itself doesn't pose a risk. However, whatever route you take, you will want to be concerned about the large scale decomposition of the vegetation (algae) as the breakdown process of the organic matter will release gases and consume the oxygen in your water. This can ultimately lead to a dead pond.....Hope this little bit helps. I'm sure you could Google copper sulfate and key words such as "pond" or "aquatic herbicide/algaecide" and find plenty of info to help you out! Best of luck! :thumbsup:
 
   / Pond Identity Crisis Please Help (pics) #20  
Just to be clear....The CS itself *WHEN USED PROPERLY AS LABELLED* ;) doesn't pose a risk....I think that if you explore the chemical route you will find that most all of the aquatic algaecides commonly used in your situation are going to be copper based....either Copper Sulfate or Copper Carbonate such as Cutrine...Cutrine plus. these products will all explain the hazards posed to aquatic fish and invertebrates on the labels. This is definitely a case where more is not necessarily better.....again...good luck!
 

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