Turbos and Yanmars

[rock2610D]

I have been getting alot of private requests for turbo recommendations.

I will post my thoughts:

1) There are only 2 MFGs that I know of that produce turbos small enough for diesel engines in the 110 Cubic inch/40 hp and less displacements...

2) They are MHI(Mitsibushi) and IHI.

3) My turbo is a MHI TD025M and it works very well on a 3T80 motor however if I had to do it all over again I would pick a MHI TD02 with a waste gate. The smaller turbo would respond to a 3T80 motor better my TD025M takes 2000 rpm to really boost well. The smaller turbo will start boosting at 1800 or so rpm..

4) In my opinion a TD025 is PERFECT with a waste gate for a 336 class yanmar.

5) Any thing smaller that an 80 CID diesel or less than 25 HP will require the smallest turbos made. IE the TD015 by MHI or the RHF3 by IHI. I have not used the RHF3 but I believe its good from 20 to 100 hp.

 

[Cord]

I used a turbo off of a Yamaha Seca motor cycle. The thing is so small it fits in the palm of your hand. To give you a sense of size, the exhaust pipe is 1 1/2".

 

[mikereid]

What do you think about a RHB31 for a YM1700 and set the boost around 4psi?

 

[rock2610D]

I first have to ask why you are turbocharging?

I did it because of my elevation....7800 feet.

If you are not compensting for elevation I strongly suggest upgraded radiator and an oil cooler. Mine 2610D in also intercooled via a small intercooler from an eagle talon this helps too.


Now to the 1700 YM 2 cylinder I think this makes a turbo somewhat difficult. A 3 banger is hard enough. Your turbo will likely pulse, a box or intercooler is helpful. Like one of the boxes on a JD 1050 for instance it redueces the effect of the pulsing exhaust strokes.

I do not know much about the IHI turbos but MHI has a turbo that should work. A TD015 the smallest they make. You will not need a wastegate at it is even on the large size for you an I suspect you will only get 5 to 8 psi under extreme heavy load, say plowing and such. Waste gates are tipically for gassers and the only reason to have one on a diesel is if you have an engine and turbo that are designed to produce high boost at low rpm( say 1500 or so) then you could see a need for a wastegate. Diesels can typically only produce boost from power supplied via exhaust and they tend to self regulate.

 

[dustin3207]

I have a YM1602D. I want to know what size you would recommend and who to order the turbo from?

 

[Verleih-Nix]

Look at this japaneese ebay site. i am thinking also for a turbo to my Yanni.

eBay.ie: Mitsubishi PAJERO Mini 660 cc TD02MR2-4K Turbo 4A30T (item 120437025281 end time 15-Apr-10 08:16:29 BST)

 

[Bigkrank]

The twin scroll Mit TD02 is a nice turbo. The most popular is the Garrett GT12.

Lots of info here, even if you don't want to get crazy with 30-60# of boost:

dieselgardentractorpulling : Diesel Garden Tractor Pulling

We are the first tractor, it has a 68 cube 3 cyl Kubota. The two John Deeres have 3 cyl Yanmars:

YouTube - HJPullingProductions's Channel

 

[dustin3207]

The twin scroll Mit TD02 is a nice turbo. The most popular is the Garrett GT12.

Are these turbos good for a stock engine application. I would need something that spools at around 1800 RPMs. I want to know how to get my hands on one without spending $300+ on a dinky little turbo?

 

[California]

I think you want dinky.

So it will spin up at typical tractor rpm.

There's no way you can increase tractor rpm up to what that turbo came off of.

 

[dustin3207]

I know I need a small turbo, but the question is were to order a used one that isn't $300. and the people that have them for sale don't know what or how big it is. They just know who makes it.

 

[California]

I think some previous threads mentioned the SmartCar turbo. It is integral to an exhaust manifold (3 cylinder) so there would be a lot of machining involved, but I doubt they are very expensive used. I've seen them on Ebay.

 

[Bigkrank]

You can find the small turbos overseas mostly but the newer designs build boost so much faster than the old ones. We built at least 6 of them from older parts, but for what you are doing they would do little more than altittude compensation. A good turbo for your engine will run about $450 plus all the installation costs. I've seen a lot of people try and put turbos on these small engines for cheap and they mostly end up being for looks at tractor shows.

You could always pick up a turbo for a Yamaha Seca (?) motorcycle or similar and try it but most of these projects I've seen were time and money wasters and the guy would've been better of doing it right in the first place.

 

[dex3361]

You can find the small turbos overseas mostly but the newer designs build boost so much faster than the old ones. We built at least 6 of them from older parts, but for what you are doing they would do little more than altittude compensation. A good turbo for your engine will run about $450 plus all the installation costs. I've seen a lot of people try and put turbos on these small engines for cheap and they mostly end up being for looks at tractor shows.

You could always pick up a turbo for a Yamaha Seca (?) motorcycle or similar and try it but most of these projects I've seen were time and money wasters and the guy would've been better of doing it right in the first place.

I have 2 Kubotas(L4400 and a BX1500) I wonder do have to turn the pump pressure/volume up on the injector pump? If so where can I find details on tweaking the pump for use with a turbo?

 

[Bigkrank]

I have 2 Kubotas(L4400 and a BX1500) I wonder do have to turn the pump pressure/volume up on the injector pump? If so where can I find details on tweaking the pump for use with a turbo?

There should be a fuel rail limit screw that you can back out, you can get a manual for your engines off ebay or a place like Capital Engines 740-964-0089 and it shows it. You need the model # of your engine. We mostly only work on the D & V series engines.

 

[oldgrayfellow]

There should be a fuel rail limit screw that you can back out, you can get a manual for your engines off ebay or a place like Capital Engines 740-964-0089 and it shows it. You need the model # of your engine. We mostly only work on the D & V series engines.

This is an important point-- that you must provide for increased fuel delivery or adding a turbo will do little or nothing. The whole reason turbos can increase power is that they allow you to fit more oxygen per cubic inch of delivery charge--but they can only increase power if you add more fuel to burn along with the increased air. For our (tractor) engines running at a relatively constant rpm during use, the simple approach of just dialing in a fixed increase of fuel delivery per rpm can make sense. For a gasoline engine in a car, this approach is too simplistic because there are other dynamic variables (ignition timing, avoiding detonation, non-direct relationship between engine rpm and fuel delivery, turbo lag avoidance, etc.)

For a tractor, you'll want to choose an rpm target level for normal use, and tailor your fuel delivery to be optimal at that rpm. The fuel may tend to be excess or deficient as you above or below that rpm, but it won't matter so much because you are looking to get power from the engine at the target rpm most of the time. How to determine the optimum fuel is another matter.
For a gas engine, it can be tuned by monitoring with an air/fuel ratio meter having a sensor in the exhaust manifold. There may be an analogous approach for a diesel, but i haven't looked into it. You could probably get reasonably close if you look at a compressor map for the turbo you're considering, then do the math to calculate the charge increase from your engine volume at the desired rpm to determine the required fuel increase for your turbo of choice.

 

[dustin3207]

is the fuel adjustment screw under a screw on metal cap off the front of the fuel pump or is it inside the pump?

 

[Car Doc]

My 3810D has a turbo on it but you would never know unless you had the hood up and saw it, I have never heard it I do know its free rotating and all.

One of these days I am tempted to tap into the box ahead of the intake and gage it for the heck of it otherwise it runs excellent so I presume its working I just cant hear it? fwtw

Steve

 

[Bigkrank]

is the fuel adjustment screw under a screw on metal cap off the front of the fuel pump or is it inside the pump?

It depends what model you have. Usually it's the one sticking up in front of the pump, not the one sticking out the front.

 

[California]

Don't you need to have it running on a dyno when you adjust that screw?

 

[dustin3207]

found it! the adjuster screw sticks out the front towards the fan.Turning it In slows the fuel and out gives more fuel correct? I went by the smoke produced on throttle up.