JD GT275 Won't Start!
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RavensRoost
Gold Member
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- John Deere 4500 and Mule 3010 (gas)
Awhile back a neighbor's riding mower would not run: had varnish in carb, solenoid at bottom of carb was rusted in almost closed position, fuel filter varnished etc.. Once we got rid of ALL the old gas, cleaned the carb with spray, cut off the solenod plunger with a Dremel -- new solenoid was beyond his $ budget -- and replaced the fuel filter it was good to go.
Not sure we would have been successful had we not taken the carb off/apart and cleaned it, but loading the fuel bowl with Seafoam might be a good tip/timesaver vs. not having to take carb off and apart.
As a precaution, we dosed the new fuel load with Seafoam: I think that stuff is great.
Not sure we would have been successful had we not taken the carb off/apart and cleaned it, but loading the fuel bowl with Seafoam might be a good tip/timesaver vs. not having to take carb off and apart.
As a precaution, we dosed the new fuel load with Seafoam: I think that stuff is great.
Diamondpilot
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I maintain equipment part time for a lawn care business. Here is what I know.
Usually its the fuel line causing the issues. Buy all new. Its only $.75 per foot here and the average mower only needs 2-3 feet. Also get a new fuel filter. The clear type with a paper element. Put it as close to the carb as you can.
Here is the issue. Ethanol breaks down fuel line from the inside out. It will look like new from the outside. When you take the bowl off and you see tiny traces of black rubber, looks like dirt, its a tell tell sign. Clean every thing up with carb cleaner and make sure you pull the needle valve. You will probably have to remove the float to do thing. Shake it and make sure its not full of gas and bad. If the needle or float look iffy get a rebuild kit. Usually $10 or less.
Put it all back together with fresh gas and it should start right up. I would not mess with the sea foam in the bowl but may put a little in the tank.
Its a no win situation. We have tried draining tanks and running the engines dry at the end of the year and had more issues. Best thing you can do is top off the tank and put in Ethanol Stabilizer. Not the red stuff. Its gray in color and approved for Ethanol. 20 oz treats something like 80 gallons so it goes a long way.
Chris
Usually its the fuel line causing the issues. Buy all new. Its only $.75 per foot here and the average mower only needs 2-3 feet. Also get a new fuel filter. The clear type with a paper element. Put it as close to the carb as you can.
Here is the issue. Ethanol breaks down fuel line from the inside out. It will look like new from the outside. When you take the bowl off and you see tiny traces of black rubber, looks like dirt, its a tell tell sign. Clean every thing up with carb cleaner and make sure you pull the needle valve. You will probably have to remove the float to do thing. Shake it and make sure its not full of gas and bad. If the needle or float look iffy get a rebuild kit. Usually $10 or less.
Put it all back together with fresh gas and it should start right up. I would not mess with the sea foam in the bowl but may put a little in the tank.
Its a no win situation. We have tried draining tanks and running the engines dry at the end of the year and had more issues. Best thing you can do is top off the tank and put in Ethanol Stabilizer. Not the red stuff. Its gray in color and approved for Ethanol. 20 oz treats something like 80 gallons so it goes a long way.
Chris
Need some help!!
I got some Seafoam and poured a bit down the air intake, turned it over a few times and let it sit. Then I tried to start it after a few minutes. It starts right up and then stalls.
So I removed the wire to the solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowl and removed the carb bowl. Perfectly clean and perfectly dry. Should it be dry when trying to start the engine? Don't think so!
I pulled the fuel line off the carb and cranked it, and it flowed gas out the end just fine.
The inside of the carb looks immaculately clean. Still, I am going to buy some carb cleaner that I can spay into the main jet area and get some compressed air to blow it out. I will also put on a new filter, drain the gas and refill with fresh gas.
I noticed that the float barely moves. I thought it was supposed to flop downward and you are able to push it up a 1/2 inch or so. If so, mine doesn't do that. Is this an issue?
Any advice?
I got some Seafoam and poured a bit down the air intake, turned it over a few times and let it sit. Then I tried to start it after a few minutes. It starts right up and then stalls.
So I removed the wire to the solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowl and removed the carb bowl. Perfectly clean and perfectly dry. Should it be dry when trying to start the engine? Don't think so!
I pulled the fuel line off the carb and cranked it, and it flowed gas out the end just fine.
The inside of the carb looks immaculately clean. Still, I am going to buy some carb cleaner that I can spay into the main jet area and get some compressed air to blow it out. I will also put on a new filter, drain the gas and refill with fresh gas.
I noticed that the float barely moves. I thought it was supposed to flop downward and you are able to push it up a 1/2 inch or so. If so, mine doesn't do that. Is this an issue?
Any advice?
Here's the update. Bottom line, I still need help before I just call the JD dealer to come pick it up!
Today I drained all the gas out, replaced the gas filter, put fresh gas in, pulled the air cleaner and carb bowl and sprayed Seafoam in all the carb nooks/crannies. I let it sit a few and then I blew out as many areas as I could reach with canned/compressed air. The carb was very clean to begin with. Lastly, I pulled the fuel line leading to the carb at the fuel pump and put some Seafoam in the line and reattached to the fuel pump. I put everything back together and cranked it.
It cranks well but it didn't run. I noticed that no gas was getting up into the new gas filter! So I pulled the fuel line leading to the carb again (at the fuel pump) and cranked it a little. Gas came up in the filter and the pump spit out some gas as it should. So, it's been held back by some stoppage downstream towards the carb.
So it appears that I've narrowed it down to the intake of gas into the carb. Maybe clogged jets that did not respond to the Seafoam cleaning??
Here's the problem, I don't see the bolts that hold the carb onto the engine and I suspect that I might have to tear-down the engine cowling to get at them. Not sure if I am up for this and flying blind.
- Is anyone here familiar with this 17 HP Kawasaki engine that can let me know how to pull this carb? Or where I can find instructions on how to do it?
- Could I simply pull the pin on the carb float (attached to the engine) and drop the jet(s) down from there for cleaning?
Thanks!
-bk
Today I drained all the gas out, replaced the gas filter, put fresh gas in, pulled the air cleaner and carb bowl and sprayed Seafoam in all the carb nooks/crannies. I let it sit a few and then I blew out as many areas as I could reach with canned/compressed air. The carb was very clean to begin with. Lastly, I pulled the fuel line leading to the carb at the fuel pump and put some Seafoam in the line and reattached to the fuel pump. I put everything back together and cranked it.
It cranks well but it didn't run. I noticed that no gas was getting up into the new gas filter! So I pulled the fuel line leading to the carb again (at the fuel pump) and cranked it a little. Gas came up in the filter and the pump spit out some gas as it should. So, it's been held back by some stoppage downstream towards the carb.
So it appears that I've narrowed it down to the intake of gas into the carb. Maybe clogged jets that did not respond to the Seafoam cleaning??
Here's the problem, I don't see the bolts that hold the carb onto the engine and I suspect that I might have to tear-down the engine cowling to get at them. Not sure if I am up for this and flying blind.
- Is anyone here familiar with this 17 HP Kawasaki engine that can let me know how to pull this carb? Or where I can find instructions on how to do it?
- Could I simply pull the pin on the carb float (attached to the engine) and drop the jet(s) down from there for cleaning?
Thanks!
-bk
Yet another minor update...
A neighbor suggested that I try to keep the engine running for a minute by providing gas down the air intake to see if it would suck any minor blockage through. Doing so made it run OK, but it did not end up sucking through any gas on it's own.
Regarding carb removal, it looks like the carb might be mounted on the same studs that secure the air filter assembly, and it may actually be held in place by tightening down the air filter assembly against the carb - at least that's what it looks like - I don't see other nuts that are holding the carb body to the engine. With the air filter assembly off, I tried pulling gently on the carb to see if it would simply slide out a bit on those studs, but no dice. And I didn't want to really yank on the carb.
Does anyone know if the carb will slide off those studs with a little more "pull"?
Again, any help is greatly appreciated. It will be frustrating to have everything cleaned up so nicely, only to have to bring it to the shop (and pay big bucks!) for merely cleaning the jets.
A neighbor suggested that I try to keep the engine running for a minute by providing gas down the air intake to see if it would suck any minor blockage through. Doing so made it run OK, but it did not end up sucking through any gas on it's own.
Regarding carb removal, it looks like the carb might be mounted on the same studs that secure the air filter assembly, and it may actually be held in place by tightening down the air filter assembly against the carb - at least that's what it looks like - I don't see other nuts that are holding the carb body to the engine. With the air filter assembly off, I tried pulling gently on the carb to see if it would simply slide out a bit on those studs, but no dice. And I didn't want to really yank on the carb.
Does anyone know if the carb will slide off those studs with a little more "pull"?
Again, any help is greatly appreciated. It will be frustrating to have everything cleaned up so nicely, only to have to bring it to the shop (and pay big bucks!) for merely cleaning the jets.
Well, thanks to everyone for their excellent assistance, but I can't get this thing started. Today I checked the fuel cut-off solenoid and it's fine. Still no start.
The shortage of technical information on the net and from JD on exactly how to remove and service the carb leads me to simply give it to the local shop for repair. Can't say I didn't give it a try!
Thanks again!
The shortage of technical information on the net and from JD on exactly how to remove and service the carb leads me to simply give it to the local shop for repair. Can't say I didn't give it a try!
Thanks again!
iouzilch
New member
BillyK,
There is a tech manual available for the GT275. You need to be sure that you get the correct manual for the year if I remember correctly.
I have a Gt242, GT262, and GT275 Lawn and Garden Tractors Tech manual. The part number is TM1582 (15JUL97) which replaces TM1582 (22DEC94) and TM1515 (01sept92).
The manual states that there are 2 nuts that need to be removed along with any obvious wires to the carb.
If you were looking at the carb from the side of the tractor, the 2 nuts are located a little above and to either side of the bowl.
Note: I am NOT a mechanic. Remember that gas is flammable etc.. etc...
Here is a link to a parts breakdown that you can see how it goes together.
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt
Hint. Go to Print Selection on the right hand side and choose Illustration to get a bigger, clearer picture.
These nuts appear to also support the lower half of the air filter assy. Thsi woudl be the part tht the bottom of the air filter contacts.
From the picture it appears that there are then 3 gaskets.
1) between the lower part of the air filter assy and the carb
2) between the carb and a heat shield
3) between the heat shield and the engine.
It may be that the gaskets are holding your carb on and will require more effort to remove. I think that you woudl want to replace all 3 of the gaskets when reassembling.
There is a tech manual available for the GT275. You need to be sure that you get the correct manual for the year if I remember correctly.
I have a Gt242, GT262, and GT275 Lawn and Garden Tractors Tech manual. The part number is TM1582 (15JUL97) which replaces TM1582 (22DEC94) and TM1515 (01sept92).
The manual states that there are 2 nuts that need to be removed along with any obvious wires to the carb.
If you were looking at the carb from the side of the tractor, the 2 nuts are located a little above and to either side of the bowl.
Note: I am NOT a mechanic. Remember that gas is flammable etc.. etc...
Here is a link to a parts breakdown that you can see how it goes together.
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt
Hint. Go to Print Selection on the right hand side and choose Illustration to get a bigger, clearer picture.
These nuts appear to also support the lower half of the air filter assy. Thsi woudl be the part tht the bottom of the air filter contacts.
From the picture it appears that there are then 3 gaskets.
1) between the lower part of the air filter assy and the carb
2) between the carb and a heat shield
3) between the heat shield and the engine.
It may be that the gaskets are holding your carb on and will require more effort to remove. I think that you woudl want to replace all 3 of the gaskets when reassembling.
Last edited:
iouzilch
New member
I have owned a GT275 for about a year now. Recently it intermittantly would stall. I discovered that if I moved the throttle to full choke that I could get it to run, albeit roughly. I noticed tht when it has the problem, the fuel filter was devoid of fuel and I could see air/fuel bubbles leaving the filter. I tried loosening the gas tank cap thinking that it was vapor locked, but no help. The fuel filter was raplaced about 5 running hours ago.
I let it cool down and it ran without any issue for 1.5 hours on a hot day. I turned it off to disconnect something and when I went to start it again it had the same issue.
This is what led me to your posts. Did you get it fixed?
Mine has an intermittant issue so it may be harder to find. Anyone have any suggestions?
I let it cool down and it ran without any issue for 1.5 hours on a hot day. I turned it off to disconnect something and when I went to start it again it had the same issue.
This is what led me to your posts. Did you get it fixed?
Mine has an intermittant issue so it may be harder to find. Anyone have any suggestions?
