Checking fluids on a new tractor is no joke!

[poldies4]

Thanks to all for the valuable insight. I do feel a whole lot better. I can see the merit in these little habits, or rituals before starting the work. Thanks again.

 

[Usta]

Now that the fliud situation is settled. Check all the nuts and bolts for tightness. I have had HST linkage knuckles come loose enough so I lost reverse. FEL control linkage knuckles loosened enough so that I needed to move the lever over 18 inches sideways to dump the bucket. Loose battery terminal. Pinched "O" ring on main hydo block, etc... I feel fortunate that I can do my own maintenance work. Would hate to have to have a dealer work on each of these small issues. (I like my dealer but I like my seat time more)

Get to know your tractor. Crawl over, under and through your tractor often to check thing out for tightness, leaks, wear or other problems.

 

[Grateful11]

When most of you guys got your tractors were the inspection sheets completely
filled out? I got the paperwork and manual to our "to be delivered tomorrow
L3940" and I noticed a 2 page check off sheet and everything that was
applicable was checked off. I recently found the inspection to the CaseIH 5140 that my
FIL bought back in the early 90's and absolutely nothing was checked off,
maybe things were checked and maybe they weren't, since the dealer has
since lost the CaseIH brand I wouldn't be surprised if anything was checked at all.

 

[number two]

There have been numerous posts about BX tractors that have full front axles that showed up later with low fluid levels-seems that it takes awhile to get the gearcases completely filled.Maybe nobody's at fault here?Good Luck!

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Now that the fliud situation is settled. Check all the nuts and bolts for tightness. I have had HST linkage knuckles come loose enough so I lost reverse. FEL control linkage knuckles loosened enough so that I needed to move the lever over 18 inches sideways to dump the bucket. Loose battery terminal. Pinched "O" ring on main hydo block, etc... I feel fortunate that I can do my own maintenance work. Would hate to have to have a dealer work on each of these small issues. (I like my dealer but I like my seat time more)

Get to know your tractor. Crawl over, under and through your tractor often to check thing out for tightness, leaks, wear or other problems.

I don't change the oil or oil filter in my cars or truck, I do my tractors. I recommend everyone do it at least one time to get a better understanding of your tractor. It's not a big job. Also, if you do it once, I believe you'll always do it when you see how easy and simple it is and when you ask how much they charge. I'd rather do it myself than hook up my trailer, load it on my trailer, strap it down, trailer it 7 miles and then trailer it back, unstrap it, unload it and then unhook my trailer. I can have the fluids and filter changed by the time I got it to the dealer. I took pictures the last time I did it and the thread is here.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/167108-do-your-own-fluids-filters.html
I also took the mowing deck off but not sure that's required but I also recommend you do that to see how it's done, lubricate deck and sharpen blades.

 

[Ken45101]

When most of you guys got your tractors were the inspection sheets completely
filled out? I got the paperwork and manual to our "to be delivered tomorrow
L3940" and I noticed a 2 page check off sheet and everything that was
applicable was checked off. I recently found the inspection to the CaseIH 5140 that my
FIL bought back in the early 90's and absolutely nothing was checked off,
maybe things were checked and maybe they weren't, since the dealer has
since lost the CaseIH brand I wouldn't be surprised if anything was checked at all.

I don't think I've ever seen an "inspection sheet" even though I've bought a five tractors and other equipment.

Ken

 

[bp fick]

I don't think I've ever seen an "inspection sheet" even though I've bought a five tractors and other equipment.

Ken

Very likely this check off or prep sheet existed on your units. You just didn't receive it. A prep check off sheet is pretty SOP. What its value is, unless properly done and some of it checked off, at delivery, in front of the customer, during an orientation, would be of questionable veracity and pretty suspect.

 

[Ken45101]

Very likely this check off or prep sheet existed on your units. You just didn't receive it. A prep check off sheet is pretty SOP. What its value is, unless properly done and some of it checked off, at delivery, in front of the customer, during an orientation, would be of questionable veracity and pretty suspect.

Oh, I agree! I was just remarking that I've never seen one.

Actually, I do remember one on something (a trailer or RV? maybe it was a tractor) where they just drew a straight line down through all the check boxes at once.

They are only as good as the dealership makes them.

Ken

 

[poldies4]

I do have my check sheets, the front axle lubrication is checked. Went to the dealer today and mentioned the low fluid issue. His initial response was that I must have a leak. Makes me think that perhaps he did check it, and as mentioned earlier the breathers were not loose, therefore trapping air? If i'm understanding this correctly. I assured him that it was parked in a clean barn and had there been a leak I would have easily seen it. As well as the cases being clean and dry. At any rate he handed me a quart of fluid and I'm heading out now to top it off. Thanks for all the advice, hopefully I'll learn enough to pass on some myself someday.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I do have my check sheets, the front axle lubrication is checked. Went to the dealer today and mentioned the low fluid issue. His initial response was that I must have a leak. Makes me think that perhaps he did check it, and as mentioned earlier the breathers were not loose, therefore trapping air? If i'm understanding this correctly. I assured him that it was parked in a clean barn and had there been a leak I would have easily seen it. As well as the cases being clean and dry. At any rate he handed me a quart of fluid and I'm heading out now to top it off. Thanks for all the advice, hopefully I'll learn enough to pass on some myself someday.

Great. I think you handled it perfectly. He could have said there may be a leak instead of there must be a leak. He did well less a few points for the "must".

 

[bp fick]

I am so glad this initial panic went by without a truly bad experience.

Again, hydro fluid works in these front axles, but axle gear lube offers so much more protection for the hard work these front axles do with 4wd and FELs. Do give some thought to replacing the 10w20 sudt with a good quality 80w-90 or a 75w-90 semi-syn gear lube. It just isn't expensive and provides an additional level of peace of mind. My .02

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I am so glad this initial panic went by without a truly bad experience.

Again, hydro fluid works in these front axles, but axle gear lube offers so much more protection for the hard work these front axles do with 4wd and FELs. Do give some thought to replacing the 10w20 sudt with a good quality 80w-90 or a 75w-90 semi-syn gear lube. It just isn't expensive and provides an additional level of peace of mind. My .02

Not disputing because I don't know. Questioning to learn new information. Why do you believe less expensive to buy gear oil does a better job than more expensive SUDT that factory uses? Isn't the purpose to just lubricate slow turning gears? I don't really know what's in the front axles that one lube over another would matter. Help me understand. I like to learn at least one new thing a day and hopefully more than one.

 

[bp fick]

Not disputing because I don't know. Questioning to learn new information. Why do you believe less expensive to buy gear oil does a better job than more expensive SUDT that factory uses? Isn't the purpose to just lubricate slow turning gears? I don't really know what's in the front axles that one lube over another would matter. Help me understand. I like to learn at least one new thing a day and hopefully more than one.

I believe it based on the fact that it is an axle. Like all axles, it has gears and bearings that require protection. While I have no objective eye witness to back me up, it is simply would seem easier to have an overhead gun to supply sudt to everything on the assembly line. SUDT works, so it's fine.

My manual states either gear lube or SUDT. So, again, either is fine. I am old school. I want gear lube in my truck diffs, boat motor lower units, and in my tractor's front 4wd axle. I do spend a few pennies more for the semi-syn 75w-90 just because I believe it has slightly better properties and slightly quicker flow rate than standard 80w-90.

I am sure some engineer type guys here can chime in. I know they have in the past and highly supported the idea that gear lube has superior properties over even the best universal type hydro fluids. My salesman strongly suggested doing this, as did the mechanic who set up my tractor and delivered it. I heard what they said and made a personal decision that I would do so as well. That's it. It is merely a personal choice.

 

[Tractor Factor]

I also would like to hear more about this from knowledgeable folks. I've seen this stated here a couple of times, but you never know if it's just internet chat getting repeated.

A quick search turned this up:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/160505-front-axle-fluid.html

...looks good, I'll read it when I get some time later.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I believe it based on the fact that it is an axle. Like all axles, it has gears and bearings that require protection. While I have no objective eye witness to back me up, it is simply would seem easier to have an overhead gun to supply sudt to everything on the assembly line. SUDT works, so it's fine.

My manual states either gear lube or SUDT. So, again, either is fine. I am old school. I want gear lube in my truck diffs, boat motor lower units, and in my tractor's front 4wd axle. I do spend a few pennies more for the semi-syn 75w-90 just because I believe it has slightly better properties and slightly quicker flow rate than standard 80w-90.

I am sure some engineer type guys here can chime in. I know they have in the past and highly supported the idea that gear lube has superior properties over even the best universal type hydro fluids. My salesman strongly suggested doing this, as did the mechanic who set up my tractor and delivered it. I heard what they said and made a personal decision that I would do so as well. That's it. It is merely a personal choice.

I know my manuals also say either one. I guess a truck and boat motor lower unit will be moving at high speed and a tractor never will. Also I'm thinking the front axle is being covered/bathed in the lubricant at all times so in my mind if my theory of being covered or bathed at all times, not sure I can see any difference in any lubricant or am I not understanding at all? Is the front axle submerged at all times in lubricant fluid?

 

[bp fick]

JT, I think your thoughts are straight. Then we get down to the molecular level of lubrication, sheer, and stuff that makes my head ache.

All I know, it is a gear, shaft, seal, bearing contraption. Sudt is something akin to 10w-20. I am not sure that speed is the only issue. There are other stresses at work here. I just kick in my 4wd and feel a whole lot better that there is top quality, top of the line GEAR LUBE in there. There are no pumps or things of that nature. It's an axle. Thus, in my mind, axle fluid is in it.:thumbsup:

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

JT, I think your thoughts are straight. Then we get down to the molecular level of lubrication, sheer, and stuff that makes my head ache.

All I know, it is a gear, shaft, seal, bearing contraption. Sudt is something akin to 10w-20. I am not sure that speed is the only issue. There are other stresses at work here. I just kick in my 4wd and feel a whole lot better that there is top quality, top of the line GEAR LUBE in there. There are no pumps or things of that nature. It's an axle. Thus, in my mind, axle fluid is in it.:thumbsup:

I grew up to the car world in the 60's. 60000 miles was nearing the life of a car and 100000 was unheard of. Oil was to be changed at 3000 miles. Panasonic was junk and a Datsun (now Nissan) was some kind of a car along with Toyota. Jump forward to 2009 and Panasonic, Nissan and Toyota are good products and can be upper end products. Car manuals say change oil at 4500 miles, 5000 miles and some 7500 miles and people talk about vehicles with 200000 and 300000 miles. Gorilla glue will hold forever. Tires last for 60000 miles. People talk on phones in cars. I still start cringing when a vehicle gets 40000 miles and expect it to die any day 60000 and I'm for sure not driving it out of town. 3000 miles between oil changes get me concerned but I have started stretching the changes out to 4000 to 4500 miles some times but sometimes it's still at 3000. Didn't believe in Motor Honey then and still don't. Do use splash of Power Service in the white bottle year round in my tractor fuel and always have even though I usually don't do any cold weather driving. Don't know why for sure but when I first started tractoring I was convinced, sort of, on a forum to do it, still do and still will. Guess there are some things that we have in our heads and it's just easier to keep them there than change them unless Jesus comes down and tells me to.
Appreciate your information and logic/reasoning behind your doing it. Always read your posts.

 

[Tollster]

Go to your dealer and explain the issue, he'll give you the fluid for the front axle. I bet he'll even throw in the 50 hour service for free. I'd pull the drain plugs to see if it's totally dry. I'd also send an email to Kubota, getting the issue documented.

Upsetting, yes, end of the world, no.

I've purchased new Honda's that were not prepped right......

Thats the most professional way to address it.

 

[KKPop]

I purchased my machine last year, it is a BX25. This thread prompted me to check my front axle fluid level, and I'm glad I did. Nothing showed on the dipstick, but I used a screwdriver and detected some fluid near the bottom. I only have 50 hours on the tractor, and none of it has been heavy use, so I don't think that damage was done. I promptly topped it off to make things right.

Thanks to all for the insight.

 

[Goodluck w/ That]

I would let the dealer know about it, if something breaks in the future because of lack of fluid they should replace it, it's their fault as far as I'm concerned. 10hrs, shouldn't have really hurt anything but would still make you mad!