At Home In The Woods

   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,141  
Here is a link for an insert that is made by Napolean. It has the option for "central heat" or gravity vents to supply warm air to other parts of the house. Look down at the bottom of my link and click on manual. Page 8 of the PDF shows the options. Specifictions for NZ3000 Wood Burning Fireplace

Obed,
What insert did you install? I've been thinking of adding one to our house.
Chris
Chris,
We installed a Quadra-Fire 7100 Wood Fireplace. Page 4 of the brochure has a good picture of the duct options. In addition to placing a hot air vent in the hallway, we ran a return duct and vent to the other end of the house to encourage circulation of the heated air through the house, very similar to the way HVAC systems work.

We were originally planning to install a Napolean fireplace. We had gotten a quotation from a local fireplace store. However, when it came time to do the framing, we needed the fireplace guy to come out and make sure we framed everything correctly for the fireplace and various options. Unfortunately, the fireplace guy was pretty busy and wouldn't even return our calls. The only other Napolean dealer was an hour away but had gone out of business. So we went with the Quadra-Fire instead.

The Quadra-Fire was a close second to the Napolean for us. The Napolean had one option we really liked but could not get with the Quadra-Fire. The Napolean has the option to put the fireplace fan in the ductwork. This option lets you put the noisy fan in some non-obtrusive location. The Quadra-Fire has the fan in the fireplace so you are forced to have the fan noise in your living room or den. That was the only thing about the Quadra-Fire we didn't really care for.

Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,142  
Cutting in paint on trim is EXREAMLY time consuming. On new construction you can avoid all of that by painting all the trim prior to installation, then after installation caulk and a quick paint touchup goes very quickly. Spray paint your doors and trim prior to installation and you will have a very professional looking finish with very little time involved.
How do you get the trim carpenter and the painter to coordinate this painting procedure?
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,143  
How do you get the trim carpenter and the painter to coordinate this painting procedure?

Hmmm -- well since I do both of those jobs for myself the coordination is not that difficult. I guess talk to them and see what they suggest. Also an HVLP paint sprayer is ideal for trim and doors.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,144  
How do you get the trim carpenter and the painter to coordinate this painting procedure?

It's not rocket science.

Order the wood, when it arrives tell the painter to paint it....

Then tell carpenter to nail it up.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,145  
It's not rocket science.

Order the wood, when it arrives tell the painter to paint it....

Then tell carpenter to nail it up.
That's interesting. Has anyone actually done this using a sub for painting and a different sub for trim work? What steps did each sub perform and in what order?
 
Last edited:
   / At Home In The Woods #1,146  
That's interesting. Has anyone actually done this using a sub for painting and a different sub for trim work? What steps did each sub perform and in what order?

I have done it. We used stained trim, not painted.

The trim carpenter specified and ordered the "trim pack" which was delivered to the trim stain contractor's shop for staining. The trim was then delivered to the house and the trim carpenter cut it to size and installed it. He has a small amount of touch up stain to hide parts where he had to make a cut. Lastly, the stain contractor came out and touched up everything again.

The secret to getting it done this way is to describe the process, and give a number of trim contractors a request for quote. Using the same description give paint contractors a request for quote.

In today's economy, contractors will be lining up at your door to "do it your way".

Inevitably, all will not be sweetness and light with two contractors interdependent like this and either you or your construction manager will have to be referee. That is why you are paying him.

In some instances you will find pairs of contractors who routinely work together on projects and this will make things go easier.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,147  
To Caulk or Not Caulk

Our baseboards and trim will be painted. Should we caulk where the trim meets the wall or should we not caulk? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each approach?

Thanks,
Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,148  
To Caulk or Not Caulk

Our baseboards and trim will be painted. Should we caulk where the trim meets the wall or should we not caulk? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each approach?

Thanks,
Obed

I caulk all my trim to wall. The smallest gap is easily seen and the variation in the gap really shows and looks unfinished. Caulk makes all that disappear and gives you a finished look. Now I should point out that I use white on all trim so color matching is not an issue.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,149  
Remember that, here in the South, it is hard to keep creepy crawlies out of the house. They really like to set up home in cracks, so I caulk every crack.

When we first moved into our home we had a blower door test done and air leaks showed up in odd (to me) places, so caulking all cracks will prevent some air leakage.

I have been very disappointed in the past with the caulking and painting we had done by "pros." Before we started our first project I asked the neighbor if he could recommend a painter. He said he only knew of 2 good painters in Georgia and they were both dead. :shocked: So we have gone through 4 different painters and were disappointed in all of them. 2 of them we fired immediately.

The wife and I are now doing our own painting and I would rather take a beating than paint. The painting is turning into a multiple year project because I'm slow. :) We are spending a lot of time/effort in the prep work which is the most important step in painting. However, I believe we're getting a good paint job, just as good if not better than if we had a true pro doing it. We spent some time on a couple of paint forums and read a couple of books. One can learn some good techniques by reading the forums and also learn what not to do and what some jackleg painters will try to get away with. But the best way to learn is by doing. When something didn't turn out they way we wanted, we figured out what we did wrong and adjusted accordingly.

When you first asked about painting I didn't respond because I am not a pro and there is a lot to getting a good paint job. I'm a very slow typist also. :eek:
I will mention a few things.

It's really true; cleanliness is next to godliness. Clean and clean again. Vacuum, with HEPA filter, every surface prior to painting, then damp wipe just prior to painting.

If more time is being spent on the prep work that the actual painting you are probably getting a good paint job.

Don't specify just the color of paint you want. Either specify the exact brand and quality level of paint or buy the paint yourself. Some painters prefer a specific brand of paint which is fine, just make sure they don't use the brand's low quality paint. This applies to caulk also. One problem with this is some paint, or more likely, caulk will disappear and end up being used in some other house.

We prime and apply 2 top coats on everything.

One of my pet peeves is the poor caulking done by some contractors. They start off by using a poor quality caulk. To save time and caulk, some will drag instead of pushing the caulk, so the end result is a crack that is covered and not filled. The cracks will reappear in less then a year.

I tool all my caulking with my finger except in tight spots like corners where I use a 1 inch putty knife or even a quarter inch chisel. The first thing I do when I start to caulk (or paint) is get a bucket of water and a rag to clean my finger or clean off caulk where it doesn't belong. I have seen the results of a so called pro wiping off his finger on an adjacent surface. The results are not pretty.

Some will round out or fill inside corners with caulk which makes it darn near impossible to tape off and get good crisp lines.

I have read that the priming should be done before the caulking. The reasoning is that unprimed wood will absorbed more out of the caulk which will cause the caulk to shrink more. That makes sense to me but I'm doing a "repaint."

I have seen "pros" use painters putty to fill nail holes which is quick to use and they immediately paint over it. The manufacturer's instructions of this particular brand was to use with oil based paints only. The end result was not only was there a great deal of shrinkage but after awhile the paint over the putty turned a slightly darker color. The end result is very unsightly. We use wood filler, overfill slightly and sand down.

I understand that with contractors it's all about profits. The less time spent on a project, the more profit and some will do the darnest things to save a little bit of time. I, also, am fully aware that there are good ones out there and are truely professionals. It's just that that I haven't been able to hire one yet. :)

That's all for now. Oh, and I have some specific thoughts about trim carpentry, but I have to get busy doing some prep work. :)
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,150  
On new construction, it's very common for the trim work to get done first and then the painters to come in after. Some painters will start while the trim guys are still working by caulking and filling, but if it's stain grade wood, the trim or cabinet guys will do most of the fill work, but not too much of the final prep. This is where it gets complicated because staining and painting are so differnet from each other, and a great painter might not be so great at preparing wood for finish work. I've seen allot of disaster happen because of this.

The higher end painters will spray enamal on the trim. You can't get the same finish with a brush as you can by spraying it. They will overspray the trim onto the walls, and then when they paint the walls, they will cut it in so it's perfect. Painting trim before installing it is usually only done on remodels when you have to be careful of the floors. On new costruction, the floors go in after the painting is done, so you don't have to worry about them when spraying.

As for trim materials, most of the higher end homes that I've been too are using MDF ripped and cut on site for the bulk of their trim with milled pieces to build it up and finish it off. It's very rare to see an off the rack piece of trim used in that level of home. I think this is a higher end home and would expect the trim to reflect this. MDF gives a perfectly smooth finish, it cuts and mills very easily and when painted, looks amazing. Of course, this is something that should be discussed with the Trim guys beforehand. In most cases, it's best to just tell them what you want and have them offer suggestions. If they have been around for any time at all, they know what works, what others are doing and how to make it allot nicer then the average homeowner.

Good luck,
Eddie
 

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