Gooseneck, 5th Wheel, or Bumper pull?

[justanotherjoe]

Catman had a money saving point about having the trailer wheels and tires compatible with the tow vehicle. Compatible does not mean you have to use all the same tires, just that the rims and tire size are interchangable in a pinch.

 

[rback33]

Catman had a money saving point about having the trailer wheels and tires compatible with the tow vehicle. Compatible does not mean you have to use all the same tires, just that the rims and tire size are interchangable in a pinch.

Robbie,
The cut off for CDL is 26,000 lbs.. meaning 26,001 or more requires a CDL. Anything 10,001 or more is a commercial vehicle (if u are a business) and requires you have DOT registration, driver files, the whole shebang. The difference is you do not have to have CDL, DOT drug test, or mess with fuel taxes. DOT physical log book, everything else applies. But again, as long as you are NOT a business you are OK. Edited to add that the 26,001 or 10,001 mean GCWR... u put a trailer on the back and you are now a commercial vehicle if it is a company vehicle.

 

[Robbie Hegwood]

I hear ya. But here's the gray area. In Ga. they use those rules only for the truck. When I aquired my CDL the instuctor said the real deciding factor was air brakes and under 25999 lbs for the truck [1995]. Not combined weight. He said most trucks anywhere close to 26000 lbs had air brakes and you knew you had to have CDL. The Coke truck I drove was rated at 25999 lbs and had beefed up hyd. brakes to dodge the CDL issues. That's what we drove until they could scedule us to get CDL's. I also believe its become more of an issue these days because they didn't have 1 ton trucks rated at 18'000 lbs pull ratings that they have now. Side note Ford's web site says a 2008 F-450 that now comes with a regular bed like F-350 rated to pull are you ready...24,000 lbs. That's scary and unbelievable. To much truck is always a good thing, just making conversation. Good input though. Robbie

 

[mopacman]

A 20ft trailer is eazier to back up than a smaller trailer. You have to get your load centered on a bumper pull. A GN trailer is always heaver and you have too take wide corners. If I am traveling I use the lightest trailer that will handle the load to get better fuel milage.

 

[DavesTractor]

Jim, unless your state has a special rule, you don't need a CDL with a 14000lb trailer. The GVW rating for my Dodge 3/4 ton is 9000 lbs to give you an idea what the truck end is.

California is special. If you pull a trailer rated at over 10,000# gvwr you need a CDL. If over 40' in length, you need a MCP and a CA number. Some farm use, livestock trailers and RV exceptions apply.

BTW, and this is really special, if your pickup, like my 2006 Dodge dually (with factory pickup bed), is rated at over 11,500 gvwr, you are no longer a "pickup" in California. Technically you must go through the scales, etc. We pull a 20K gooseneck with our Dodge and have a CDL, MCP, CA number, EPN, terminal inspections, etc. This has been beat to death on other threads, but it appears California is much more strict on these rules.

Back to the subject at hand. The Toyota is a fine machine. If loaded reasonably with the proper hitch, it should have no problem pulling the B series Kubota. Now if you want to haul 4 of them at once, you'll need the Cummins, Powerstroke, or Duramax rig

I was in the Dominican Republic recently and saw quite a few medium duty older Toyota trucks. Probably 26,000 gvwr or so. Toyota knows how to make a real truck, we just don't see their commercial stuff here.

 

[BBB]

Let's not beat a dead horse to death. Remember this, If your "load" trailer and tractor outweight your vehicle, you can't hardly stop it. Even if you have brakes on the trailer, if it gets away from you you won't be able to get it back. Make sure you have enough vehicle to handle whatever you tow . Get a bigger truck if needed.

 

[uhftx]

BBB,

Not to start an argument what you say is correct except for the bigger truck comment.

The truck vs trailer weight is inversely proportional and very common with any 18wheeler. As well as my f350 dually and my 11000lb 5th wheel camper.

What you are saying is correct that if there is a brake failure on either of the units there is a definite problem and a momentary panic will prevail. Until the driver regains his composure and takes corrective measures.....

Safe travels

 

[rjkobbeman]

Something that I didn't see brought up regarding the gooseneck is weight over the truck's rear axle. With a gooseneck, the trailer's axles are farther rear of center than a conventional trailer. This adds more tongue weight.

I think a gooseneck is better than a conventional, but you do need to consider all issues.

I am also in the "the little Toyota is not safe to pull 10k lbs" camp.

I have lived through pulling too much trailer and jack-knifing it on the highway. Something people always forget is, just because you truck can pull it, doesn't mean it can "handle" it and stop it.

Anyway, back to the truck specs. You need to get get all of the specs:

GVWR -- this is the gross weight that the truck can/should carry. Include the tongue weight of the trailer in addition to the weight of the truck/passengers/cargo.
GCWR -- this is the combined weight of the truck and trailer and cargo. Include EVERYTHING.
GAWR -- this is the weight rating of your axle. Include everthing over your rear axle -- including the tongue weight of the trailer/cargo and the truck's weight over the axle... including cargo in the bed.

Ideally, you should not exceed ANY of those. It is not hard to overload one of those while not going over the other(s).

 

[medicshawn]

Congratulations you replied to a thread 4 years old.

 

[Duffster]

Congratulations you replied to a thread 4 years old.

That's OK it's still an interesting subject.