jdmar
Gold Member
OK lots of info...
I use regular galvanized for almost everything in an outdoor structure. They are only a few dollars more per 2500 box. If you ever hose off the inside of the barn you won't have rust streaks. If they are OK for the new PTL lumber they will say so....usually "hot dipped" or "double galvanized" etc. I prefer stainless though. They cost about 2-3x the others but will last. I only use them were they are needed...not everywhere.
Most recommend you do NOT screw or nail metal siding/roofing to any of the new PTL. The electric continuity will preferentially rot your expensive metal. It becomes the sacrificial anode in the mix--the outside is galvanized to protect but the nail/screw will pierce this thin coating and make electrical contact with the old fashioned ferrous metal. You can put a non-PTL board just above your base skirt board and attach the siding to that...just let the siding "hang" the last few inches over the PTL skirt board. I would even separate that overlap with somthing like roof felt or even adhesive roof felt/flashing cut into the right width for your overlap.
You may be able to get the older style PTL also. I still get it locally (a load less than one week ago to be honest!) from Holmes lumber (they are actually now owned by Carter so you may get it there also). I have only gotten the posts (6x6") so I am not sure if they have regular 2x material also or even the T&G skirt boards. The posts actually cost LESS than the new PTL! My understanding is that you can use it for AG use since the new stuff may be toxic to some goats.
Notching the top of the post is common in most areas. Notch the post I believe is OK. Notching a 2x material is not (it significantly reduces it's load bearing ability.
Now for the auger. It may be worth renting a skidsteer with auger for a few hours. You can then drill a 24" hole and get a really solid pad below your poles. I have also used my small backhoe to dig a relatively straight hole if I only do a few posts. If you don't want to do this you can drill with a 9" auger...just be accurate! The problem is not just the angle of the hole with the smaller auger(you can clean that with a manual post hole digger). The bigger problem is the inability to "slide" your poles in the two dimensions required to get the poles to line up perfectly for a straight wall and the post exactly the 8' or 10' apart that you design your building for. Keep in mind you can vary the distance a small amount. Often people will shorten the space between the end poles to allow the wood or metal panel to overlap the corner. It is easier to cut the panel than to add a 2" piece! All that means is know your panel dimensions well and build to minimize(aka never need) any cutting. You may even need to lengthen the space at the last poles an inch to give room for the panel and the corner trim...it all depends on your panels.
Hopefully I have helped and not ruined your day!
Peter
I use regular galvanized for almost everything in an outdoor structure. They are only a few dollars more per 2500 box. If you ever hose off the inside of the barn you won't have rust streaks. If they are OK for the new PTL lumber they will say so....usually "hot dipped" or "double galvanized" etc. I prefer stainless though. They cost about 2-3x the others but will last. I only use them were they are needed...not everywhere.
Most recommend you do NOT screw or nail metal siding/roofing to any of the new PTL. The electric continuity will preferentially rot your expensive metal. It becomes the sacrificial anode in the mix--the outside is galvanized to protect but the nail/screw will pierce this thin coating and make electrical contact with the old fashioned ferrous metal. You can put a non-PTL board just above your base skirt board and attach the siding to that...just let the siding "hang" the last few inches over the PTL skirt board. I would even separate that overlap with somthing like roof felt or even adhesive roof felt/flashing cut into the right width for your overlap.
You may be able to get the older style PTL also. I still get it locally (a load less than one week ago to be honest!) from Holmes lumber (they are actually now owned by Carter so you may get it there also). I have only gotten the posts (6x6") so I am not sure if they have regular 2x material also or even the T&G skirt boards. The posts actually cost LESS than the new PTL! My understanding is that you can use it for AG use since the new stuff may be toxic to some goats.
Notching the top of the post is common in most areas. Notch the post I believe is OK. Notching a 2x material is not (it significantly reduces it's load bearing ability.
Now for the auger. It may be worth renting a skidsteer with auger for a few hours. You can then drill a 24" hole and get a really solid pad below your poles. I have also used my small backhoe to dig a relatively straight hole if I only do a few posts. If you don't want to do this you can drill with a 9" auger...just be accurate! The problem is not just the angle of the hole with the smaller auger(you can clean that with a manual post hole digger). The bigger problem is the inability to "slide" your poles in the two dimensions required to get the poles to line up perfectly for a straight wall and the post exactly the 8' or 10' apart that you design your building for. Keep in mind you can vary the distance a small amount. Often people will shorten the space between the end poles to allow the wood or metal panel to overlap the corner. It is easier to cut the panel than to add a 2" piece! All that means is know your panel dimensions well and build to minimize(aka never need) any cutting. You may even need to lengthen the space at the last poles an inch to give room for the panel and the corner trim...it all depends on your panels.
Hopefully I have helped and not ruined your day!
Peter
I appreciate the input. 