NewB with TnT 101 questions

[atlkep1]

Let me start by saying that it was just last week that I learned that a "set" of rear auxiliaries meant 2 hoses, one for supply and one for return.:ashamed: I'm telling you this so that you understand my level, or lack thereof, of understanding of things hydraulic.

I have read, with great interest, about TNT (top-n-tilt) control and how beneficial it can be for road work w/a box blade. As I believe that a large portion of seat time is going to be spent in maintaining my driveway and the woods roads that I have on my property, I think this would be a worthwhile addition to the tractor that I am going to purchase.

My questions about TNT are:
1. These lines have to come thru some sort of control mechanism, like a joystick? Is that correct? Is there something other than a joystick that could be used for this type of control? (I don't know if joystick is the right word or not)
2. Would these lines be "hard-wired"? By that, I mean would there NOT be accessible connections where I could disconnect the tilt functionality?
3. The reason for question #2 is that I plan to add a 3PH log splitter soon after purchasing this tractor. Can I use one of the "sets" of lines from the TNT or do I have to have a 3rd "set" of lines available to run a log splitter?
4. If it IS possible to use an existing "set" of lines from the TNT, what are the pros and cons of doing that VS running a 3rd "set" of lines? (Would there be issues with raising/lowering the attached log splitter w/a disconnected tilt cylinder?)

TIA for your input and your patience:thumbsup: with me while I try to learn how these things work.

Keith

 

[Inky05]

1) Joystick or corntrol valves: yes

2) use quick disconnects and power anything you want with them...

3-4) two sets of remotes OK ( but more is better ). The splitter probably has its own control valve... so use the PB port from the joystick to power it... no need then to disconnect the tilt cylinder. (but if you did disconnect the tilt it would just remain at whatever angle it was at prior to disconnect)

 

[Cocre]

What brand/model tractor are you planning on doing the TnT to?

Several of us have done this, and some have extensive documentation on the forum. Look for recent posts by kennyd for several links with plenty of detail.

A couple of things I learned from doing my TnT; 1) hydraulic stuff is expensive 2) the outcome is worth the expense.

Have fun, take pictures, and share.

 

[atlkep1]

Cocre,

I take it from your question that there is not a "standard" implementation of hydraulics on a tractor, that it would vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

In that case, I may have jumped the gun on this question. Maybe I should wait until I have settled on a tractor (list has been narrowed to BobCat, Kioti, & New Holland) then come with questions about this type of install.

I will search further on the forum and then maybe I can ask some questions like I have a clue . . . . .

Inky05,

So when hydraulics are removed from the tilt cylinder, it will stay in place. This would also be true for the top cylinder? Is this behavior just SOP for the cylinders that are used for TnT? Or for all hydraulic cylinders? PB = power beyond, yes?

Thanx for the input:thumbsup:

I'm going to do some more searching for TnT in the Forums.

Keith

 

[Bird]

Keith, you will need a 2-spool valve for both top and tilt; i.e., one spool to control the top link and a second spool for the side tilt. You'll need two lines or hoses to go to and from the valve to wherever you tap into the hydraulic system. Then you need 4 more lines or hoses to go to and from the two hydraulic cylinders; i.e., between those cylinders and the new valve. The 2-spool valve may be controlled simply with a lever for each spool, as I did, or it is possible to use a joystick. The normal front end loader uses a 2-spool valve; one spool to raise and lower the boom and the other spool to roll back and dump the bucket. You can use quick couplers so that you can unplug the cylinders and plug in other equipment such as your log splitter. I did not use the quick couplers on my tractor so they were "hard wired?" (well, maybe "hard plumbed"). These new lines and valves will not keep you from raising and lowering the 3-point hitch.

Of course different tractors may have a different place to tap into the hydraulics. The front end loader may have a valve with "power beyond" or in the case of my Kubota there was another "auxilliary hydraulic outlet" upstream from the 3-point hitch valve. Using that outlet meant that the 3-point hitch could not be raised or lowered simultaneously with operating the top 'n tilt valves, but there was never any need to do that anyway. Since I only have one right arm and hand, I could only operate one lever at a time.

The first picture is my two top 'n tilt cylinders and I think you can see there are 2 hoses to and from each of them.

The second picture is the 2-spool valve I mounted on the fender of my B2710 with a straight vertical lever to operate each spool.

The third and fourth pictures show how far forward and backward I could tilt the box blade. No picture showing the side to side tilt.

 

[Bird]

Now if you'd like to read a really long thread, you can go back a little over 9 years ago and read the thread I started when I had no idea what I was doing, but got a lot of help from TBN members and somewhere in there you'll even see how much money I spent.:laughing: And of course, I mistitled the thread. It should have been Hydraulic Top 'N Tilt instead of Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt.

 

[Cocre]

TnTs come in many flavors.

Here is my toplink:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/159732-installed-hydraulic-toplink-jd-3320-a.html

And my sidelink:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/167701-installed-hydraulic-side-link.html

 

[kennyd]

Whichever machine you chose, just be sue to get the maximum number of "rear remotes" they offer. You will NEED two for a TnT setup. Having factory installed remotes will be a lot easier in the end.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Whichever machine you chose, just be sue to get the maximum number of "rear remotes" they offer. You will NEED two for a TnT setup. Having factory installed remotes will be a lot easier in the end.

"Getting the factory rear remotes" CANNOT be emphasized enough. The only time that I might question the OEM valves would be if only one was available, so an aftermarket valve would be needed anyway.

 

[atlkep1]

Bird, Cocre, kennyd,

Thanx for the links and sorry for the delay in replying.

I'm on the verge of feeling edu-ma-cated now.

Please expect me back with more specific questions once I get settled on a tractor and determine how many "factory remotes" are available. (MtnViewRanch, thanx for the empahsis on that point. Not that I'm mechanically inept, but I really want this machine to hit my ground ready to run!!)

Let me ask one more question here at the beginning, tho . . . .

Would there be a situation where I would want the TnT to remain hooked up and require the service of an additional rear remote? Or will I be able to handle most situations by simply disconnecting one of the TnT connections and hooking up another implement (at this time, a log splitter is the only thing that I see requiring rear hydraulics, but I don't want to create a gotcha right @ the start).

Thanx for the input guys!!!

Keith