OP
Mighty Dodge
Gold Member
OK, thanks for all the info fellas. I have the ring in tapered end first. Your saying it should be flipped, tapered end facing out?
M.D.
M.D.
Ok What's holding this in. (Cylinder rebuild)
- Thread starter Mighty Dodge
- Start date
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kennyd
Advertiser
I believe that is correct from memory...I think there is a little "tab" on the plastic piece? That should be at the top of the cylinder. But in the end-it needs to fill the groove flush to the top so the ring can slide over it. In the picture you posted-it is obviously sticking up.
OP
Mighty Dodge
Gold Member
Update...sort of
Well I finally got the cylinder apart, used bondo worked like a charm. I opened the package of parts...they're the wrong ones. The set they sold me must be for a larger cylinder...430 maybe. Back to JD tomorrow.
M.D.
Well I finally got the cylinder apart, used bondo worked like a charm. I opened the package of parts...they're the wrong ones. The set they sold me must be for a larger cylinder...430 maybe. Back to JD tomorrow.
M.D.
wdchyd
Elite Member
Niiice MD,
told you bondo works:thumbsup:.....if the dealer doesn't have the right parts you maybe close enough to Baltimore Hyd, Baltimore,MD to match up seals.....those are very common parts .....
Now that you see how this comes apart you can understand why most people give up too easily.....I had one "Truck Repair Shop" completely ruin a pair of cyls just because they needed to be repacked.....he was ticked at me because I gave him the Dealers Tel#,told him to go buy two new cyls....(He literally melted the rod/gland/barrel together)
make sure you polish and clean b4 install
kennyd
Advertiser
I guess that is why you had so much trouble with the orange plastic "tool". What is the part number on the seal kits you have?
OP
Mighty Dodge
Gold Member
Makes sense that the "tool" didn't work well. They said it was the kit for the bucket curl cylinders. Supposed to have the right ones tomorrow. We'll see. One of the service guys was standing there, he said they rebuild them there and they're a pain. He said "welcome to John Deere"
M.D.
M.D.
OP
Mighty Dodge
Gold Member
Well I finally got the right parts. Fixed the left cylinder, the loader holds now. I went ahead and rebuilt the right side as well. Used the tool it worked like it should. I can finally use my tractor again!:dance1: Thanks for all the responses and help.
M.D.
M.D.
dcyrilc
Elite Member
trarwronski
New member
Mighty Dodge,
Tap in gland below flush to expose groove on barrel inside tube, mix up plastic autobody filler "Bondo", fill groove with mixture, go get beer and relax for a few minutes (till it sets up).....yank out and you're out.....
you don't need to buy the OEM kit to do this
Bill
Pardon this Newbie to forum if this post is improper. Can you elaborate a titch on the bondo use. I assume you use the bondo to form a wedge on the exterior (square) side of the "groove" so the lock ring will ride up on it allowing removal. When I tap the gland in, it hangs up right at the inside end of the groove. so "filling" the grove would be difficult. How do you remove the bondo then when you prepare to reinsert the piston and gland? I assume I can easily clean it out with pick tools due to the surface being oily acting as a release?
wdchyd
Elite Member
There is a type of John Deere cylinder that requires a plastic ring to fill a groove when the gland is tapped in, then removing the gland allows the round internal (not seen till it is out) to slide by the groove. If you don’t have that plastic ring from a seal kit that’s when the bondo trick works.
If you have square ring then you have different setup, the square ring needs to come out by turning the gland.
After the cylinder is apart the body can be picked with no harm to the cylinder barrel.
If you have square ring then you have different setup, the square ring needs to come out by turning the gland.
After the cylinder is apart the body can be picked with no harm to the cylinder barrel.
