help with saw purchase.

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I feel there are many considerations than just the amount of wood cut. For years I used both a 262 and a 257 when at the landing. This was producing 4 to 5 cords per day. Not knowing the age or physical and athletic status of the op, nor if he were processing the entire tree or his experience, I felt the 357 may have been applicable. Climbing over limbs and such, a couple more pounds at the end of the day could get dangerous. There is the added weight of the 372 also as a result of more fuel capacity that after 5 or 6 hours of cutting may be an issue. The poster did not tell us much other that the wood production so not knowing many variables , made me suggest the 357 which would handle what he is doing quite nicely. As I stated, people get used to saw weights but I did not know many critical things hence my overall suggestion.

 

[Nitro-Fish]

....... This was producing 4 to 5 cords per day.......Climbing over limbs and such, a couple more pounds at the end of the day could get dangerous. There is the added weight of the 372 also as a result of more fuel capacity that after 5 or 6 hours of cutting may be an issue. The poster did not tell us much other that the wood production so not knowing many variables , made me suggest the 357 which would handle what he is doing quite nicely. As I stated, people get used to saw weights but I did not know many critical things hence my overall suggestion.

I could not produce 4-5 cords of wood per day processing a whole tree or by just cutting from a pile already stacked in 20-30' lengths; that is if you are talking about wood ready to be burned. By the time one or two people cut, carry, split, and stack wood that is being cut in a day's time, 4-5 cords is a real stretch unless of course you also own a wood processor set up with conveyor etc. Now if you're only talking about cutting up rounds to make 4-5 cords in a day, I agree it's possible, but to get what I consider "firewood" cords, I would have to sit back & watch

As far as for throwing in the limbing & processing: from cutting the tree down, limbing, rounding, splitting, moving & stacking, 4-5 cords........ I do know for the limbing I would have recommended the 346xp, not the 372xp, but for production, for me anyway, it's the 372xp.

Some of the guys that cut with me are 65yrs old and all they say when using the 372 is that it is a pleasure to cut with; not full time cutters, just trying to stay warm and help each other out.

As I said, there's nothing wrong with the 357 (or the 262 and the 257 you mention, both close to the same hp family with the 357; 262 a bit more, 257 a bit less), I have one of those too. If I were to have to use only two saws it would most definately be the 372xp & the 346xp for saws of today. For quick cutting of firewood though give me the 372 any day!

Oh, and a few things to make gathering a bit easier:

 

[arrow]

My reference was toward the 357 being an all around saw and being able to hold up to the tune of 15-20 cords per year. My suggestion was based on not knowing critical points of the op and him buying one chainsaw. As far as producing the amount of wood I stated, it was indeed firewood. Skidder would drag up stems. Stems were sectioned to 18". Wood was split on a traditional splitter and belted to a stake panel holding 2 -2/12 cord. We would do that twice in one day ( don't get me wrong, we had all the saws and bigger stuff would warrant larger saws for bucking. Another factor as to the saws we would use was which saws were working.) No stacking or leg work. My point being that these smaller saws held up for that kind of production. No wood cutter can make do with one chainsaw. Even if the op needed experience, the 357 would have made a good first saw and then a good limbing saw if he found he needed more hp of the 372. (My saw of choice after the 357 would have been the 385) but I do agree that the 346 and 372 make for a very nice two saw combo and would be all the saws a home ownwer would need for 10 or more cords and for under that, I'd go for the 357 with a 16" and 20" bar for the one all around saw or a saw to gain experience on.

 

[doall]

now that you have it never loan it. never loan out your chain saw, boat, tractor, or wife: all could come back with a rod slung in them.

 

[niemeyjt]

Talking to local dealer, who sells Stihl and Husqy, he says the Husqy revs faster and you should always use Husqy oil in the mix as it is better than the Stihl oil at such high revs. I am not sure if it is true, just passing it on to OP now he has jumped!

I also agree with all those who say go two saws - I started with an 038 (semi pro) and inherited an 025 (domestic). The lighter weight means I use the 025 95% of the time now.

Finally, again for those reading these posts in the future seeking advice, if you are in a colder climate you may like to see what winterisation options are available. My 038 came with various shrouds and plugs, the 025 came with nothing. A warm handle might even appeal.

J

 

[3rdgenorange]

Finally got to use the 372 tonight. 1st impressions. The thing will definetly throw chips of wood. Seems to have good power. It did seem to smoke some but maybe this is because of it not being broke in?? I noticed the bar seemed to get really warm even with the oiler turned all the way up. At times seemed to cut diagonal which I am guessing is the chain??

 

[arrow]

Finally got to use the 372 tonight. 1st impressions. The thing will definetly throw chips of wood. Seems to have good power. It did seem to smoke some but maybe this is because of it not being broke in?? I noticed the bar seemed to get really warm even with the oiler turned all the way up. At times seemed to cut diagonal which I am guessing is the chain??

Yes but after 3-5 tanks it should stop. Pay close attention to your oil mix ratio. 2. Run the saw with the tip pointed at and near a surface. You should get oil splatter on that surface if oiling properly. 3. Diagonal cuts happen for several reasons. Most frequent is the blade has nicked the ground w/o you knowing. Examine the chain cutters. if nothing seems noticable,I would try giving the saw to someone else to eliminate a technique you may be bringing to the saw. This is a heavier saw than your last and you may be over compensating in a direction to cause an angle cut. Another predominate reason is that the blade and chain are not matching gauges. The proprietor of the store could have made a mistake when putting saw together. The saw is new so I doubt it is a wear problem of either chain top plate angles,depth gauge heights or bar and chain rails. If you resolve that it is not a cutting technique problem nor a gauge mismatch problem, examine the chain for nicks. If none are found, file only the cutters opposite the direction of the veer. (If saw is veering right, sharpen the left cutters only or vice versa) and see if that doesn't straighten out the problem.
Now I'll explain a far out problem I once witnessed. A coworker was using a chainsaw that was cutting to the right. The chainsaw was new. He'd cut to the right. I picked up the saw and it would cut to the left. To make a long story short, we resolved the fact that the bar was getting no oil. His cutting technique leaned in a direction causing more friction on one side of the unoiled rail, mine had the opposite effect. The conclusion was that a bar with no oil, could cause sufficient friction on a larger saw to actually pull the saw to one side or another depending on the user technique. It was the only time I saw this as a logger in the 30 years in the profession and for that matter in the 20 years out of the profession but still cutting wood and owning and selling a mess of chainsaws. It is possible but I think unlikely this would be relevant to your situation. Check the above stuff in the first paragraph and I think you'll solve the problem.

 

[3rdgenorange]

Is it possible for the chain to be to tight and would this cause the bar to smoke?

 

[Nitro-Fish]

The dealer where you purchased the saw should have run the saw in for you; this would mean they should have set the RPMs by using a Tach, and verified the saw was oiling properly, chain adjusted properly etc. Most dealers set the saws about 500 RPMs below what the saw will ultimately be set to once break-in is complete; the ones around here will also adjust the RPMs to spec free of charge after a few tanks of fuel have been run through the saw. Make sure you are adjusting the oiler in the right direction and if your problems continue, return to the place of purchase and have the dealer make it right; you have a 2 year warranty, let them make it right!

 

[3rdgenorange]

Checked the oiler today and it is working fine. Must have been that the chain was to tight??