Rear Blade Why doesn't my rear blade cut?

[dcyrilc]

Well, I only got one picture, but here it is:

 

[crusty 1]

Cyril, you stll havin problems with that blade? I,v got one for you to help me figure out.Used the tractor all day to move gravel dirt etc.,worked fine dig trench across driveway to install culvert now loader won,t raise but will run bucket fine and three point works but loader will not lift!Fluid fine been lookin and no leaks,some danged safety switch?One dumb old Finlander at his wites end to figure out what it could be.Dave

 

[crusty 1]

Forgot to saythat from my eyes your drive looks better than mine by a mile.And I like medium rare just tell me the postage and my check will be in the mail.Really wish I could be a part of your gathering but just cannot.Very kind of you to do this and I sincerly hope you have a great time.:lickingave

 

[dcyrilc]

Hmmm... Thought I had posted on this thread about bending the lower left pin for the 3PH connection on the blade.

Found one of my missing/burried electrical boxes on the edge of the drive a while back and bent the pin. When I removed it, I found that the threaded shank of the pin was not the right size for the hole. Hmmm, not finding the pix either. Oh well. I picked up some new pins which have the same size threaded shank as the Cat2 section of the pin. These fit much better and should be much stronger. Also removed another slop point. Now I'll probably bend the blade if I'm not careful.:laughing:

 

[dcyrilc]

A question for those of you much more familiar with tractors than I am.

How much slop should be in the adjustment section of the right lift arm? I have about 1/8" - 3/16" of up/down play in the linkage here. The slop/play is inside the assembly where the handle for adjusting up or down on the lift arm is. Is this considered normal, or should it be fairly tight as far as vertical movement is concerned?

There is an approximately 1/8" thick washer inside this assembly which supports the arm within the assembly. I am considering adding a second washer to remove the extra play. Any opinions?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would add the washer. Slop when grading is a bad thing. As far if it is supposed to be that way, I doubt it, both of mine were tight when I took them off to install my hydraulic side links.

 

[dcyrilc]

I would add the washer. Slop when grading is a bad thing. As far if it is supposed to be that way, I doubt it, both of mine were tight when I took them off to install my hydraulic side links.

Thanks for the quick response. I just ordered the washer. For $2.20, I figured it would be worth trying. I'm slowly getting things improved on the tractor. Eventually, I'll have to go for the TNT, but that will require buying and installing remotes and valves so it's not going to be soon. The next major point to work on will be tearing the 3PH apart and rebuilding it. It has issues and sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. I'll start a new thread on that.

One more question. On my left lift arm, the weld bead which holds in the upper ball has worn to the point where the ball will come out of the socket. How hard is it to put a new retaining bead/weld on so the ball will remain in place? Also, how would I determine if the ball and/or socket is worn to the point that it would be worth replacing them?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

One more question. On my left lift arm, the weld bead which holds in the upper ball has worn to the point where the ball will come out of the socket. How hard is it to put a new retaining bead/weld on so the ball will remain in place? Also, how would I determine if the ball and/or socket is worn to the point that it would be worth replacing them?

Sounds to me that it has worn enough to be replaced. Not sure how difficult welding it would be, clean everything real good and then put some oil on the ball so that the weld won't stick to it if you happen to get the bead on the ball. Can't hurt to try welding it first, if it works then you will have saved yourself some $$,:cool2: if not, you needed to buy a new one anyway. :mur:

 

[dcyrilc]

Sounds to me that it has worn enough to be replaced. Not sure how difficult welding it would be, clean everything real good and then put some oil on the ball so that the weld won't stick to it if you happen to get the bead on the ball. Can't hurt to try welding it first, if it works then you will have saved yourself some $$,:cool2: if not, you needed to buy a new one anyway. :mur:

I've looked at JDParts and the rod with socket and the ball are two seperate parts and would need to be put together with a retaining weld added anyway, so I think it makes sense to try it on this one first even if just for practice. I'll be tearing the 3PH apart sometime in the next week to start my rebuild on it (JD 2240: Rebuilding my 3PH - TractorByNet.com) so I'll take the lift arm up to a friend of mine to try welding a new retaining bead while the 3PH is apart.

 

[dex3361]

Cyril, you stll havin problems with that blade? I,v got one for you to help me figure out.Used the tractor all day to move gravel dirt etc.,worked fine dig trench across driveway to install culvert now loader won,t raise but will run bucket fine and three point works but loader will not lift!Fluid fine been lookin and no leaks,some danged safety switch?One dumb old Finlander at his wites end to figure out what it could be.Dave

Try taking the hydraulic quick connect lines loose for the function that you are having problems with and reconnect them sometimes they pop out a bit and block the flow. It may be that simple.