whitedogone
Gold Member
I've not had very good luck with tsc paint holding up very well to abuse. Are there tougher paints that are available. I'm not looking for $$$ automotive paints.
tough paint
- Thread starter whitedogone
- Start date
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No.
The Industrial enamels can be reasonably tough, but they do require a long curing time, (Up to 90 days). If you can, leave the painted item in the sun for a while to "bake" it. This will drive out the solvents, and make it tougher.
Other things you can do:
Apply the proper amount. Applying the paint too heavy will trap solvents and reduce durability.
Wait the prescribed time between coats. This will help the solvents evaporate.
Adding a hardener will help with adhesion, which increases durability.
Using an automotive primer that has hardener in it, will allow molecular cross linkage between the primer coats, and the finish coats, which will also increase adhesion.
When I do all of the above, and "bake" industrial enamel in the spray booth, (1 hour, at 160 degrees). it is surprisingly tough, for it's cost. It can be as chip proof as most automotive finishes.
There are high end industrial coatings that are the most durable coatings I know of, but they are not available to the public, and are very expensive.
The Industrial enamels can be reasonably tough, but they do require a long curing time, (Up to 90 days). If you can, leave the painted item in the sun for a while to "bake" it. This will drive out the solvents, and make it tougher.
Other things you can do:
Apply the proper amount. Applying the paint too heavy will trap solvents and reduce durability.
Wait the prescribed time between coats. This will help the solvents evaporate.
Adding a hardener will help with adhesion, which increases durability.
Using an automotive primer that has hardener in it, will allow molecular cross linkage between the primer coats, and the finish coats, which will also increase adhesion.
When I do all of the above, and "bake" industrial enamel in the spray booth, (1 hour, at 160 degrees). it is surprisingly tough, for it's cost. It can be as chip proof as most automotive finishes.
There are high end industrial coatings that are the most durable coatings I know of, but they are not available to the public, and are very expensive.
BHD
Veteran Member
since the lead was removed out of paint none of it hold up very well,(color fast) IMO.
I had some success, with ACE paints, If I want a color that is on the list, and matches, I have painted trailers and other with them, and felt it was a good deal, but the colors do fade out in time,
Sherwin-Williams paints in there industrial line, (what I use the most, partly because I go in and buy mistints and use them, but have them to be good).
they can and will mix to match any color, (there paints do fade as well),
I have little problem with them "lasting or sticking" if properly prepped, but the colors fade
the John Deere paints are reasonable but still fade but some better for color fast, but expensive, you will nearly need lacquer thinner to clean up with over mineral spirits,
(I think I like the JD paints best but the cost (in our area) is the most expensive), but have fewer colors to choose from.
I had some success, with ACE paints, If I want a color that is on the list, and matches, I have painted trailers and other with them, and felt it was a good deal, but the colors do fade out in time,
Sherwin-Williams paints in there industrial line, (what I use the most, partly because I go in and buy mistints and use them, but have them to be good).
they can and will mix to match any color, (there paints do fade as well),
I have little problem with them "lasting or sticking" if properly prepped, but the colors fade
the John Deere paints are reasonable but still fade but some better for color fast, but expensive, you will nearly need lacquer thinner to clean up with over mineral spirits,
(I think I like the JD paints best but the cost (in our area) is the most expensive), but have fewer colors to choose from.
OP
whitedogone
Gold Member
I mostly paint jd green color.
OP
whitedogone
Gold Member
TSC has Hardener that they sell to add to there enamels. I've always been kind of scared to use it because of the hazards.
beenthere
Super Star Member
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We just can't get john deere "color" anywhere but from Deere paint, from my experience. That is if you want to match the real JD color.
Besides the paint directions, be sure that the preparation for painting is done, and the temperature is right.
You do not have to use the hardener to get a good job. Hardener will not make the paint substantially harder. Hardener makes it cure faster, adhere better, and converts the resins to a product that improves gloss hold out.
I have even used spray cans of industrial enamel with good success. You just have to get the solvents out of the paint, so it can cure. Industrial enamel uses a lot of "cheap" solvents, so this is a slow process.
Aside from using the "Texas heat lamp", (the sun), to drive out the solvents, you could potentially "bake" the parts in a room with a heater, or use infrared heat lamps. Solvents will potentially build up in a small sealed area, so use caution.
wedgeheaded
New member
POR 15 sells stuff that is hard and tough. It likes a rusty surface best. Don't put it on over existing paint because if the paint letys go, the POR goes with it. I sell the product line but I'm sure you can order it online from their website. Roughly $44/qt. My next thought would be auto acrylic enamel with a cat. hardener. Pricy but durable.
SPIKER
Elite Member
the hardener actually makes the paint much more durable and cure better. how it does this is at a molecular level by cross linking the paint molecules into a more solid linked/bonded together surface. this also helps to keep the paint on the subsurface which MUST be prepared well. Bare metal needs to be etched with ether a self etching primer and or a etching phosphoric acid that forms crystals on the surface actual converts part of the surface to crystal structure that the pain adheres to well. best to etch the bare metal then spray a metal conditioning / self etching primer over the surface then let the primer surfacer dry correctly sand & clean then paint per all MFG directions.
I've painted cars trucks tractors all kinds of industrial equipment. painted cars for a living for a wile back when the Imron Catalyzed paints were new. Now a days the hardeners are available at TSC to work with their paints and are a good use. my now 8 year old dump trailer used exclusively for wet sand rock creek gravel and wood still looks good has good color fast and only has some scratched surface in the inner bed and it was painted back in 02 using TSC Blue tractor paint with hardener mixed in. I would imagine over 100ton of jagged creek wash dumped out of it.
Mark
HarryVanderpool
Gold Member
Whenever I can, I have my stuff powder coated rather than paint.
100 times more durable, and the bond is forever.
If you build lots of stuff, develop a relationship with your favorite powdercoating establishment. That way you can drop off small parts that can go in with someone elses larger order, thus avoiding the minimum charge.
:thumbsup:
100 times more durable, and the bond is forever.
If you build lots of stuff, develop a relationship with your favorite powdercoating establishment. That way you can drop off small parts that can go in with someone elses larger order, thus avoiding the minimum charge.
:thumbsup: