tough paint

[ray66v]

the hardener actually makes the paint much more durable and cure better. how it does this is at a molecular level by cross linking the paint molecules into a more solid linked/bonded together surface.

Mark

Thanks for the info....but, I already mentioned that.

I have over 33 years experience painting, cars, trucks, aircraft, motorcycles, boats, equipment, etc., etc. And, I have been directly involved in field testing, and development, of many of the products we use today.

In my last 10 years, with a helper, I averaged almost 20 vehicle repairs painted a week. That's about 10,000 right there alone.

 

[lostcause]

Whenever I can, I have my stuff powder coated rather than paint.
100 times more durable, and the bond is forever.
If you build lots of stuff, develop a relationship with your favorite powdercoating establishment. That way you can drop off small parts that can go in with someone elses larger order, thus avoiding the minimum charge.
:thumbsup:

i've never had anything powder coated personally, but i have seen a lot of things that are factory powder coated - fisher snow plows in particular. the coating is very durable and holds up well to the sandblasting it gets from road dirt. my biggest complaint is that on snow plows it seems to be too tough, and when the plows flex, it does not stretch but instead seems to loses adhesion to the metal. when rust gets behind the coating (it always does) it seems to spread very fast, instead of just an isolated rust spot on a painted plow. maybe it's the flexing the plows are subjected to, or maybe it's poor prep on the steel, or maybe it's the general makeup of powder coating. i'm not enough of an expert to decide.

i can say that aside from fading, i've had exceptional durability from rustoleum paints. i use either the clean metal or rusty metal primer as is needed. my equipment trailer is 11 year old sunburst yellow and has no peeling anywhere, and only rust where i have gouged the paint to the metal. i only cleaned the steel with a wire brush & wiped it down with hardware store paint thinner prior to brush painting it.

 

[SPIKER]

i've never had anything powder coated personally, but i have seen a lot of things that are factory powder coated - fisher snow plows in particular. the coating is very durable and holds up well to the sandblasting it gets from road dirt. my biggest complaint is that on snow plows it seems to be too tough, and when the plows flex, it does not stretch but instead seems to loses adhesion to the metal. when rust gets behind the coating (it always does) it seems to spread very fast, instead of just an isolated rust spot on a painted plow. maybe it's the flexing the plows are subjected to, or maybe it's poor prep on the steel, or maybe it's the general makeup of powder coating. i'm not enough of an expert to decide.

i can say that aside from fading, i've had exceptional durability from rustoleum paints. i use either the clean metal or rusty metal primer as is needed. my equipment trailer is 11 year old sunburst yellow and has no peeling anywhere, and only rust where i have gouged the paint to the metal. i only cleaned the steel with a wire brush & wiped it down with hardware store paint thinner prior to brush painting it.

Powder coating is very similar to paint in that 90% of the work is the surface prep required prior to coating. the main advantage to powder coating is that as soon as the part cools down from the oven it is ready to go no more curing is required. I had built powder coating equipment for a good number of years and did my fair share of powder coat painting & been to PPGs powder coating classes that were real good. Company I was working with/for at the time is still cranking out Powder coating systems. Like standard painting there needs to be proper substrate prep. phosphate cleaning/coating is major step in getting the powder to stick. the powder chemistry is very similar to enamel with hardener in it.

Powder coating peeling off the heavy snow plows is more than likely due to the prep and or the fact that the heavy metal was not heated properly to cure the powder. The heavier the part the longer it takes the surface temperature MUST come up to the powders chemistry cure temp. for the powders cure time.


Hope that helps...

Mark

 

[joes_427_vette]

We just can't get john deere "color" anywhere but from Deere paint, from my experience. That is if you want to match the real JD color.

I don't believe they have patient rights on the green color for paint. It can be bought from various paint manufacturers. I just bought a quart of Rustoleum for a fel I built. Matched the tractor very well.

 

[Ford tractor]

Urethane epoxy paint with a hardener will be the most durable. Dupont Imron was one of the first. Just remember that the iso-cyanate hardener will also coat the insides of your lungs blocking their ability to accept oxygen. There is no way to "cure" your lungs once they are coated.

Standard masks DON'T block the iso's. Only supplied air respirators should be used.

 

[ray66v]

Standard masks DON'T block the iso's.

Standard dust masks don't protect you from iso's. But a charcoal respirator can. It has to be used, and stored properly. It does not have to be an air supplied unit.

It is complicated.

I undergo routine testing to determine the appropriate amount of exposure. This assures that my respirator is adequately protecting me. I get 25 hrs. total of use out of a disposable respirator, in up to a 7-10 day period. Then it gets changed. That falls well within the safety margins for the unit I use. That is also using it in a downdraft booth, which does a very good job of removing the spray.

Rest assured if you buy a disposable respirator, or new cartridges for a reusable one, It is very capable of protecting your lungs, for one project. It has to fit properly, and be kept in a sealed container when not being used. Once it has been used, the materials in the filters start to degrade, and in a matter of time, it is no good.

There is also a lot more to protecting yourself than a respirator. Not going to write a book here.

This stuff effects everyone differently, some get lots of exposure, and never have any reaction, and some rare cases can't even walk in the building it was used in, the next day, without a reaction requiring a trip to the ER.

I have always taken reasonable precautions, and have used it for decades without any effects. But, I have also seen dozens use it carelessly with no ill effect. I only know of one case of someone actually having harmed himself, that came after continually using it without any protection at all.

 

[o2batsea]

Triple thumbs up to POR 15 paints. Not the rust encapsulating paint so much, but their "hard nose" paint which is a two part cyanoacrylate (spelling) which comes in a wide array of colors. I also like very much their engine enamel.
Another single part urethane that is equally bash resistant is Durabak available in non skid and smooth. Insane expensive.

 

[whitedogone]

Triple thumbs up to POR 15 paints. Not the rust encapsulating paint so much, but their "hard nose" paint which is a two part cyanoacrylate (spelling) which comes in a wide array of colors. I also like very much their engine enamel.

DO they have JD green?

 

[Scooby074]

DO they have JD green?

ill throw in another vote for POR. Ive had great luck with their products.

In the hardnose paints, they have a "light green" which looks pretty close to JD green. Perhaps an email to the company could confirm that.
HARDNOSE PAINT-POR-15 Inc.

 

[forgeblast]

what about "painting" it in bed liner.