KIOTI DK 45 SE HST Stopped while running - won't re-start

[dourobob]

Update - Dealer's mechanic also thinks we are dealing with a faulty shut off solenoid.

Today after checking fuses and inspecting wiring for possible shorts, the tractor started but only ran for 1 or 2 seconds before shutting down. Did this on 6 or 7 tries but would not continue to run.

As I will be in the hospital tomorrow for my sixth eye surgery in the past 14 months, it is not likely we will get this resolved until sometime next week.

Thanks to all who have helped me through the troubleshooting.

Will post back as soon as I can to report (hopefully) success.

Bob

 

[dourobob]

There are 2 coils in the solenoid. The first coil pulls the solenoid into the open position, to allow the fuel rack to move (loud click from under the hood). The second coil holds the solenoid in the open position. It sounds like you may be loosing the signal for the hold coil. The second click you hear is the solenoid not getting the hold signal and shutting back down.Hope this helps.

Thanks. This is very helpful and exactly what my dealer has said - he just got back from some time away and I was unable to do anything because of my recent eye surgery (which went well BTW - just have to take it easy for a while during recovery).

The problem now is that he is an hour away and the Kioti warranty only covers the tractor when it is at his door. He would send out his mechanic but would have to charge me for at least two hours so he is going to try and help me zero in on the problem over the phone and hopefully save those charges.

What has happened is this -

I checked the 10 A fuse for the engine shut off and, just as the dealer predicted, it had blown.
Replaced the fuse, the tractor fired up like new and ran for about ten feet. Then I heard a snap, the engine died and that 10 A fuse had blown again.
Now we are thinking there is a short, possibly where the wrap around one of the wires or covers has worn through. He says he saw this once before and it was below the platform in the area under the left foot.

I crawled under the tractor and followed the wires as best I could. Did not see anything amiss but I did jiggle and poke a bit hoping for some magic.
Replaced the 10 A fuse and this time only got about 1 foot before it snapped.

If anyone has had this particular problem, can you tell me exactly where the wire was grounding out and blowing the fuse.

I will stay at it but any help would minimize the crawling around under the tractor which is not highly recommended right now because of my eye situation.

I get a sense that I am closing in on the problem but not quite there yet.

All suggestions appreciated.

Bob

 

[retiredfarmer]

This is exactly what happened to my NH TC25D. I am sure it is a short in the fuel shutoff solenoid. My starting issue was eventually traced to the fuel shutoff solenoid. I thought it would be the neutral lockout switch. Apparently you can short the fuel shutoff solenoid via the neutral lockout switch.

 

[MichiganIron]

Could be a bad hold coil in the solenoid. You can run a continuity test on the harness to check for shorts, and test the hold coil in the solenoid.

Short of that, replace the solenoid. Good chance it's a bad hold coil in the solenoid.

 

[CenTex Chris]

Any luck last week, Bob? Just curious and wondering if you had a status update. After reading through this, if I were in your shoes, I'd want to put one more new fuse in and use those few seconds of running time to get it up on the trailer... and then take it to the dealer. Good luck. Hope you've got some good news to share.

 

[dourobob]

Thanks for your interest. And to everyone who helped with their insights, suggestions and experience. I was just getting ready to post an update.

I had thought I may have to do just that but, after a very busy week with no seat time, I decided to take a package of 10A fuses and see if I could at least get the tractor closer to the house - if only in 100 foot steps.

I lifted the hood and removed the side panel to get better access to the solenoid and I started to do another visual check on the the wiring. I noticed the three-wire from the fuel solenoid appeared to be right up against the block?? so I wiggled and jiggled it (love those technical terms), put in a new fuse, fired up the tractor and voila - it ran .. and ran ... and ran.

I kept expecting a SNAP and stop but I actually got to do about an hour of bush hogging and to move a couple of things out of the way before I heard the SNAP again and everything died.

I went back to the wiring and did the wiggle-jiggle adjustment again - the wiring had warmed up and once again was resting against the block. The tractor started up once more and ran just fine.

It is now in the barn and tomorrow I will re-tape that 10 to 12 inches of wiring that comes down from the solenoid and perhaps shift one of the zippy ties that seems to be crowding it toward the block.

Hopefully the problem is solved with this simple fix but I am sure I'll be watching for something to SNAP for a few weeks ahead. I will also carry a few extra 10A fuses.

Cheers
Bob

 

[dourobob]

ARRRGGGGHHHHH!!!!

Thought I had this one licked but, after about 40 minutes of bush hogging today I heard another SNAP.

I had put three layers of electrical tape on the wires coming down from the fuel solenoid and believed I had solved the problem but once the tractor heated up to operating temperature and ran for a while the 10A fuse blew again.

My plan is to leave it sitting until tomorrow so it can cool down and hopefully I can get it back into the barn with another 10A fuse.

The question now is how can I best isolate these wires so they do not rest against the block where the heat seems to be too much for them and the fuse pops? Is there something better and more heat resistant than electrical tape.

Thanks
Bob

 

[mx5guy]

Header rap, designed keep heat in your headers, but also can protect wires from heat, if you think its heat you can make a simple heat shield with aluminum foil to protect your wires.

I don稚 recommend this but we used to use a fault isolation fuse ( brass bar same diamiter of as fuse, cut to same length) and start system up and keep one hand on the power switch, and have as many eyes watching for smoke ( the short or defective relay ), this approach was recommended by IBM to isolate the fault. It did work, but I sure would not try it on my tractor. Good luck trouble shooting.

 

[tinman955]

I dont think masking the problem with tape is gonna be a perminant fix, I think you need to becareful and get all the tape off the wire harness and trace wires or use a volt meter to check resistance on each one to find out which one is grounding or shorting.

 

[JoelD]

Let the dealer sort it out, that is why you purchased new. Not your problem.

You take care of your eye health and let the dealer take care of the health of the tractor.



Joel