KIOTI DK 45 SE HST Stopped while running - won't re-start

[CenTex Chris]

I must agree with Joel; you don't need this headache. Get it up on the trailer and take it to town. The whole reason I'm about to buy new is for the warranty -- hope you choose to put your warranty to work for you, Bob.

 

[dourobob]

Thanks for the concern and I agree with you both but ...
- I don't have a trailer
- the dealer is an hour away
- I am playing and learning as I go

Dealer will do a permanent fix when he comes to my place to do the 50 hour service (part of the original purchase deal) and I don't have to pay trailering or travel time.

Not doing anything to jeopardize the eye (six surgeries in 14 months is more than enough) but I can poke around a bit.

I am pretty sure I found the exact spot where the short happened and will try to post a picture in the next few days.

Bob

 

[CenTex Chris]

Thanks for the update, Bob -- good luck and please keep us
advised. My apologies for just assuming you had a trailer.

 

[dourobob]

The blown fuse saga around continues.

Today I got about an hour of operating time and the fuse blew again.
I poked, prodded, pushed and pulled, changed the fuse and was able to get back to the barn.

This intermittent stuff is so frustrating and I may need to resort to paying dealer travel time.

Before I do that I am going to have a friend, who is much more mechanically inclined and competent than I am, come over and see if he can help.

Report to follow.

Bob

BTW - the eye continues to heal well.

 

[AndrewInOz]

Bob
Hopefully problem solved by now however...
when the fuse blows in seconds, you have a better chance of finding the problem: put a load ( 12volt bulb / inspection lamp ) in place of the fuse. Something less than 120W ( like a old headlamp) will keep the current less than the 10amp wiring limit.
I don't know the Kioti fuse type, but you might be able to get some small croc clips onto the fuse holder or perhaps solder wires onto each end of a blown fuse and then connect these wires to the lamp so the lamp filament is now the fuse.

Then instead of blowing the fuse, the lamp will illuminate when that circuit has a short circuit to the frame ie when the fault is present.
Move the cable loom around looking for an increase in lamp intensity.
Remember that there may be other correctly functioning devices present on that fuse circuit so you may see the lamp glow a little normally, but it go bright when the short is present.

Disconnect the solenoid in question to test for its influence.
Heating the solenoid to its normal operation temperature may promote a faulty winding short.

If the fault is mostly intermittant, and the lamp is big enough wattage, the machine will run like this so when it faults and stops, you can systematically pull the solenoid plug / move wiring to find what turns it off.
HTH,
Andrew.

 

[dourobob]

Hi Andrew
Welcome to TBN and thank you for your detailed response.
I was able to have my " more mechanically inclined friend" come over and we went through the wiring again. After shifting a few things it appears the problem with my DK 45 SE is fixed for the time being. My friend says he really did not do anything, but the tractor has been working well for the past few weeks. I guess we shifted the right thing the right way.
I do plan to keep your comments handy in case it happens again.

Thanks again
Bob

 

[kattywumpus]

Hi Andrew
Welcome to TBN and thank you for your detailed response.
I was able to have my " more mechanically inclined friend" come over and we went through the wiring again. After shifting a few things it appears the problem with my DK 45 SE is fixed for the time being. My friend says he really did not do anything, but the tractor has been working well for the past few weeks. I guess we shifted the right thing the right way.
I do plan to keep your comments handy in case it happens again.

Thanks again
Bob

I had a similar problem with my gremlin (DK40SE HST). When I went to start it I realized it was still in gear, so not thinking anything of it, I slid the shifter into neutral with the key turned to start. The starter turned for a second and then all electrical power was lost. I mean all power, nothing worked, no lights, no dash lights and etc. After saying a stream of choice words. I figured it had to be related to main power feed, most likely the main fuses. My tractor has two 60 amp fuses, I think the second one is for the cab's AC. The fuses tested fine, but I noticed one of the fuses' copper ribbon was discolored. It appeared this fuse had got hot. After plugging the fuses back in everything was fine. My belief is the fuse that got hot forced it way out of the socket some resulting in a poor connection. I seen this happen before in high amp electrical systems.

 

[dourobob]

Bob
Hopefully problem solved by now however...
when the fuse blows in seconds, you have a better chance of finding the problem: put a load ( 12volt bulb / inspection lamp ) in place of the fuse. Something less than 120W ( like a old headlamp) will keep the current less than the 10amp wiring limit.
I don't know the Kioti fuse type, but you might be able to get some small croc clips onto the fuse holder or perhaps solder wires onto each end of a blown fuse and then connect these wires to the lamp so the lamp filament is now the fuse.

Then instead of blowing the fuse, the lamp will illuminate when that circuit has a short circuit to the frame ie when the fault is present.
Move the cable loom around looking for an increase in lamp intensity.
Remember that there may be other correctly functioning devices present on that fuse circuit so you may see the lamp glow a little normally, but it go bright when the short is present.

Disconnect the solenoid in question to test for its influence.
Heating the solenoid to its normal operation temperature may promote a faulty winding short.

If the fault is mostly intermittant, and the lamp is big enough wattage, the machine will run like this so when it faults and stops, you can systematically pull the solenoid plug / move wiring to find what turns it off.
HTH,
Andrew.

Hi Folks
It has been a while but my problem with the constantly blowing 10 amp fuse has resurfaced.
Of course, the tractor was right in front of the entrance to our B&B cabin and guests were scheduled to arrive in the next hour.

Thank God for good friends - my friend and neighbour Steve was just sitting down to supper. but when I called for help, he came right over and we were able to tow the tractor into the barn using his tractor.

I hope to try Andrew's suggestion in the next day or two (depending on temperatures - calling for -29C with wind chill tonight).

Open to any other ideas or suggestions.

Thanks
Bob

 

[JoelD]

Bob
I would be very careful that you don't make things worse

I sound like a broken record but try to find a buddy with trailer and get a lift to the dealer and let them sort out

Would hate for you to end up with a dash fire or the like

Please keep posting and these guys will be relentless in trying to help but be careful you don't make matters worse

Call Rick Wallace at Wallace tractor he might have some experiences that can help he's a great guy

Good luck bob

Joel

 

[kattywumpus]

I checked the 10 A fuse for the engine shut off and, just as the dealer predicted, it had blown.
Replaced the fuse, the tractor fired up like new and ran for about ten feet. Then I heard a snap, the engine died and that 10 A fuse had blown again.Bob

Bob,
Which fuse is this? Were is it located? I have had to troubleshoot a couple blow fuse issues since getting my tractor. Each time it been some type of circuit short issue. I have a service manual now so I can take a look at the circuit diagram.