Snow Equipment Buying/Pricing I know it is July...but a snow question....

[Mike in Ohio]

Moving to Auburn....right on the "primary" and "secondary" snow belt line. I can only anticiapte a lot of snow. I know what I had the last couple winters in the downtown (Cleveland) area, so I can only expect more out there. The good news is that I will be south of Chardon (snow capitol of Ohio).

It's one of those things where if I buy the blower, or blade, now...I can lump it into the 0% financing. If I buy it later...I write a check for $3000.

I would really like to think the FEL is going to work....maybe a bit longer moving the stuff around and trying to dump it...but I can work a lot of hours for $3000.

Mike

 

[fredhargis]

With a 120' paved drive, I wouldn't be afraid to work that with a walk behind thrower (actually, that's what I've done the last 14 years). If it gets to deep for the thrower, use the FEL. I will admit I just moved and now have a 500' gravel drive that gets awful drifts...so I bought a 3 pt. hitch thrower to go with the FEL, and I still have my walk behind unit for the paved part up near the house.

 

[dave1949]

Moving to Auburn....right on the "primary" and "secondary" snow belt line. I can only anticiapte a lot of snow. I know what I had the last couple winters in the downtown (Cleveland) area, so I can only expect more out there. The good news is that I will be south of Chardon (snow capitol of Ohio).

It's one of those things where if I buy the blower, or blade, now...I can lump it into the 0% financing. If I buy it later...I write a check for $3000.

I would really like to think the FEL is going to work....maybe a bit longer moving the stuff around and trying to dump it...but I can work a lot of hours for $3000.

Mike

I would say a blower is certainly at the high dollar end of your choices. 120' driveway isn't all that big. I used to do that much with a Honda 28" walk behind blower. It did take a while and the walk behinds don't have the weight to get down to the pavement in wet packed stuff. I would end up with 4" slabs of packed snow ice by Spring here and there. If you can blow it BEFORE it gets driven on, the walk behind is much happier.

The FEL will get the job done for you and you will still have your $3000. I don't see a blade being that much of an advantage over a FEL for your length of driveway.

With a concrete drive, tire chains have to be selected and used with care. The spiked chains that really bite will do a number on concrete. There a couple long threads on tire chains you could read, but you may be in a good position to just use front tire (assuming 4wd) chains that are fairly inexpensive, easy to mount if and when you really need them, and be able to quickly take off when you don't.

Have fun with yor property.
Dave.

 

[RoyJackson]

With a concrete drive, tire chains have to be selected and used with care. The spiked chains that really bite will do a number on concrete. There a couple long threads on tire chains you could read, but you may be in a good position to just use front tire (assuming 4wd) chains that are fairly inexpensive, easy to mount if and when you really need them, and be able to quickly take off when you don't.

Good point about the tire chains...and now is the best time to buy. You may not save any money buying now...but they'll be available (and might not be when you need them!).
I went with the ladder type (4 link) since my drive is fairly level. I also went for rears only. Although many guys use 'em, I think chains can stress the front axle too much. With steep drives and roads, it's worth the risk...but not in my situation.
2 or 4 link ladder type chains are what Tirechains.com recommends for road (paved) use. 4 link chains are lighter, but that doesn't mean they're light!

I'll be putting my chains on when mowing season is over (late October, early November) and they'll stay on until Spring.

 

[Egon]

If economics are in play just go with the loader and do put on chains. A back blade could be added for ballast and light snowfalls.:thumbsup:

In light snow a blade on either end would work. When the snow gets deep, real wet and heavy the loader will do the job for you. It also allows you to load and dump snow for more room. The blades can't do this especially if you have a frozen existing windrow of snow.

Also remember you may have to deal with the that nice windrow of snow the Municipal Machines will deposit across the front of the driveway. These are easiest handled with the loader.:thumbsup:

And of course the blower is number one but cost ??

Attached picture shows one driveway. A Kubota B7100 with chains would be unable to drive through using a backblade. Neither could it push snow backwards with the backblade. And, seeing as it can't push through with the loader it would not make it with a front blade. That driveway has a 20 degree down slope to the road.

 

[Mike in Ohio]

WOW...great replies! Very much appreciated!

I will stick with the loader....keep the $3000 in my pocket.

Add some chains...one more thing I forgot to mention....

The dealer suggested filling the rear tires with some kind of molasses based product for $150.00. Said it would help with the loader weight.

Safe to say it will also help with the snow?

Thanks to all for your input.

Mike

 

[RoyJackson]

The dealer suggested filling the rear tires with some kind of molasses based product for $150.00. Said it would help with the loader weight.

Safe to say it will also help with the snow?

Filled tires help with stability and to a lesser degree, ballast. Believe me, you'll still want some rear (3PH) ballast.
Some dealers (mine, for example) throw in a ballast box if a FEL is part of the deal...applicable to new tractors only. Buddy of mine bought a 4310 and got one.
Can't hurt to ask your dealer...

I bought a brand new Deere box from a guy...got it with his 970 and never used it. I was amazed how much it helped!!! Definitely recommend a ballast box.

 

[dave1949]

Good point about the tire chains...and now is the best time to buy. You may not save any money buying now...but they'll be available (and might not be when you need them!).
I went with the ladder type (4 link) since my drive is fairly level. I also went for rears only. Although many guys use 'em, I think chains can stress the front axle too much. With steep drives and roads, it's worth the risk...but not in my situation.
2 or 4 link ladder type chains are what Tirechains.com recommends for road (paved) use. 4 link chains are lighter, but that doesn't mean they're light!

I'll be putting my chains on when mowing season is over (late October, early November) and they'll stay on until Spring.

I forgot we never finished that front chain discussion Glad you brought that up. If it were going to be a problem, concrete would show it up I bet. Maybe safer than sorry and stick with rear chains.
Dave.

 

[rekees4300]

.but again, that is what I have always used, and if it is not broke, why fix it?

120' is very much. I'd try the walk behind blower and see how it goes before investing big bucks into attachments. I've been plowing a 900' hilly gravel lane for 10 years with a front blade. It has been able to handle everything except the 2' storm we had in 2004. Had to dig out with the FEL for that one and took a couple days.

 

[VABlue]

I used the loader and rear blade on my 1/4 mile private road last winter and it took hours to get it clean over a couple of days when we were dumped with ~30". Needed to use both the FEL to lower the level (so the little 2305 didn't bury) and move piles, and the blade to clean and level things out. (It hurts the neck after a while looking back at the blade...) So you can handle that for 120' and save your money! Keep the walk behind blower, though, you'll probably use it as much as the tractor!