still trying to decide on size

[medicshawn]

I hope his lot is completely flat and level or a ZTR will beat you to death, or the speed advantage will be gone.

 

[ugabulldog]

Take my situation for example:
* MMM requires spindles, etc. to be greased every 10 hrs, gearbox oil changed every 50. IIRC there are about 17 different zerks. Not required to thoroughly clean the deck, but it makes greasing easier. To really do it right and get at everything, you really have to remove the MMM and get it in the air.

Well I am new at all this (obviously) and have never owned a tractor, just driven one. That's why i am trying to learn as much as I can before purchase.......It sounds like w/ a mmm, the added maintenance plus costs might outway the benefits versus a RFM (or is there just as much maintenance w/ rfm?).....guess thats why so many use a RFM over a MMM, or is it that alot of tractors don't have the mid pto?? (I thought it was the latter) Also, I have read about rigging up a chain to prevent bush hog from dropping on 1/4 valve......if thats what i end up with, how effective is this and how hard to rig up?

 

[rswyan]

It sounds like w/ a mmm, the added maintenance plus costs might outway the benefits versus a RFM (or is there just as much maintenance w/ rfm?)

The biggest difference is how easy one is compared to the other in terms of installation/removal - my MMM either requires the FEL to be on (to raise the tractor so you can slide the MMM underneath) or you can drive over it (the mower that is)

Driving over requires blocking the MMM gauge wheels so it doesn't go rolling around on you when you try to drive over it ..... it does work pretty slick tho' ....

If you are not driving over and using the FEL method instead, then you'll probably want to remove the FEL prior to actually mowing - not all that tough, but it's just another thing to do.

In either case, hooking up the driveshaft on a MMM to the mid-PTO is more of a pain (IMHO) - especially with a 72" deck - than connecting a driveshaft to the rear PTO, with a rear finish mower.

In my opinion, the maintenance is wash between a MMM vs. RFM (... or a ZTR for that matter) ...... there are a snotload of grease zerks on mine (14 ?) ...... but if memory serves, I can get all but two of them (u-joints in the driveshaft), with the mower mounted on the tractor.

.....guess thats why so many use a RFM over a MMM, or is it that alot of tractors don't have the mid pto?? (I thought it was the latter)

Compare the cost - usually a good RFM is about half the cost of MMM - and mebbe sometimes mid-PTO is an option (for additional $ of course)

It's far easier to use a MMM in confined spaces, trimming around obstacles I would guess ... but whether that's an issue would depend on your property and what's on it.

 

[ChuckinNH]

Well I am new at all this (obviously) and have never owned a tractor, just driven one. That's why i am trying to learn as much as I can before purchase.......It sounds like w/ a mmm, the added maintenance plus costs might outway the benefits versus a RFM (or is there just as much maintenance w/ rfm?).....guess thats why so many use a RFM over a MMM, or is it that alot of tractors don't have the mid pto?? (I thought it was the latter) Also, I have read about rigging up a chain to prevent bush hog from dropping on 1/4 valve......if thats what i end up with, how effective is this and how hard to rig up?

There is a down travel limit that can be adjusted on Kubota tractors with 1//4 inching. To start with, I would get the cutter a bit higher than you want it, and set the stop since they do tend to go a bit lower in use. Here are some pictures of the stop set up.

 

[ugabulldog]

There is a down travel limit that can be adjusted on Kubota tractors with 1//4 inching. To start with, I would get the cutter a bit higher than you want it, and set the stop since they do tend to go a bit lower in use. Here are some pictures of the stop set up.

Thanks Chuck....if it as simple as that why do people make such a big deal about having to keep "bumping it up"?

 

[KU Gator]

In your original post, you mentioned a concern about the B3200 not having a suspended MMM and therefore maybe could not be left on while using the brush hog. You are correct that the MMM on the B3200 as well as the 2630 and 3030 are not suspended, but that relates to when they are cutting, the wheels are dropped to the ground and it rides on the ground like an RFM. They can still be raised and locked in place when not being used. The suspended mowers are held up off the ground while mowing and the wheels are intended to be anti-scalping wheels.

RSWYAN gave a good comparison of the advantages/disadvantages of the RFM vs the MMM.

My thought would be if you want to stay with a B and you are going to be mowing with a brush hog a lot, I would look hard at a 2630 or 3030 for the position control instead of the 1/4 valve used on the other B's. If you are going to use a RFM, it would be less of a concern.

 

[medicshawn]

If you're gonna reconsider moving up to an L it offers a few benefits. The first is the Skid Steer Quick Attach for the loader. I don't pull my loader frame off to mow but I do pull my bucket off to increase visibility and cooling. It also allows you to add a Hay spear or grapple pretty easy.

I like the RFM because it doesn't take very long to remove. With a HST trans it's pretty manuverable. You can also keep it if you move to a different tractor.

Moving up to an L would also mean you could probably run that 6 foot bushog.

You might look at the 3700SU they're running some pretty great deals on them.

 

[KU Gator]

I didn't notice you also asked about chains for mower deck stabilizers. Here is the type I ordered: Mower Deck Height Stabilizer Kit -- Finish Mower & Rotary Cutter Parts

For a number of reasons, I hooked mine up different than the design, but they basicly did ok on the one time I have mowed with the brush hog this summer.

 

[DiezNutz]

I hope his lot is completely flat and level or a ZTR will beat you to death, or the speed advantage will be gone.

Some will, that's true. We got ours with torsion front forks so it rides pretty decent. If you try to go very fast with the tractor on rough terrain, you're going to get bounced out of your seat also, plus it's rough on the whole tractor. I'd rather give the $7K machine a beating and added hours than the $18K machine.

Our ZTR is only 52" compared to MMM 60" and even on wide open area it still takes less time (cuts faster) and cuts nicer. That's it's job, it'd better.

This has just been my personal experience, YMMV.

 

[rswyan]

If you try to go very fast with the tractor on rough terrain, you're going to get bounced out of your seat also, plus it's rough on the whole tractor.

Yup, yup

I usually mow in high range, as fast as possible .... errr ..... I mean as fast as comfortable.

If I'm keeping up with the mowing, I'm not cutting a lot off during any given mowing and I'll run about 1800 to 2000 rpm ... when the ground is relatively moist I can cruise along pretty good in high-range .....

Once it gets to summer (like now) things are starting to dry out pretty good and I'll slow down a good bit .... otherwise I (and the tractor) would get beat to death .....

I'd rather give the $7K machine a beating and added hours than the $18K machine.

Makes sense to me .....

BTW, in hindsight I wish I had done what you are advocating - put the $3K I spent on the MMM towards a Kubota F-series Front Cut ..... I use the B2910 constantly for a variety of work around the property ..... I'm always looking at the weather when I start to consider removing the MMM:

How soon will it rain ? (which means the grass will be growing ..... fast) .... and how soon will I have to screw around putting the MMM back on ?

What it usually means is that I try and sneak by without taking it off when I really should - which ain't good ...... so far I think I've had it off only once this year ....

ugabulldog: your property is similar to mine in terms of size (we have 16.5 acres) ...... although it sounds like you could have about double the mowing I have (only about 4 acres here) .....

I'd say that either of our properties are borderline as far as upsizing to an L-series tractor - with the work I have done (and plan to do) there were plenty of times I could have used a larger machine, bigger FEL, etc - stuff would have probably got done quite a bit faster.

What drove our decision at purchase time (we were buying for the long haul) was the idea of what would eventually be the best fit once the majority of the work was done (is it ever ? :laughing, and the primary use of the tractor would be mowing ....

I opted to go with the smaller machine, thinking that less weight would be easier on the lawn ... in those terms, I have no doubt it was the right decision ....

As it ended up, the B2910 was already a move up - I was originally looking at a B7510 when we started shopping .... but my wife (bless her heart) said "Get the bigger tractor (B2910) ..... don't want to get something to small ...."

She would have signed off on an L-series, no problemo - if that was what I said we needed ....