Steel Hydraulic Lines for Loader - Hard to do?

[workinprogress]

I have started to collect parts to build a small loader for a Cub Cadet garden tractor. I was hoping for a nice clean professional design by building steel lines which I can fix to the loader in places. Having only worked with small metal lines (Car Brake lines) with premade ends. I am not sure how hard this would be? The loader plans have it running off a 4-8gpm pump so the metal lines won't be that large (thinking about 3/8 inch or so).

Any thoughts would be great. I currently don't have flaring tools etc to make the ends.

Thanks

 

[/pine]

I recently plumbed rear hydraulics on my tractor using seamless (thick) walled steel tubing...

I used a combination of bends and mechanical flareless fittings...

I have a cast aluminum tubing bender but it was not meant for bending the harder thicker walled tubing as it is intended...But I was able to use my hands and bend the tubing around the cast sweep of the bender (I'm sure if I would have tried to use the bending arm it would have broken...

I was very surprised how easy it was and how well the flareless fittings worked...

in the picture attached the "T" fitting is on the return line for a second valve that will be plumbed from the PB port on the first valve...

The second pic is how I set it up for a pressure test before putting the fender etc back on...

 

[Egon]

Very nice job!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

What make fittings did you use? Thanks.

 

[handirifle]

Steel benders aren't that expensive. harbor Freight has a few different models that are reasonable and I have heard work pretty well.

Another option on the fittings is brazing the lines, it's pretty easy to learn if you haven't done it before. You do need an oxy acetelene set up though.

I plan on redoing the lines on my MF1010 this winter. A lot of mine are the hoses and frankly I prefer the clean look of the steel lines.

 

[oldnslo]

I have started to collect parts to build a small loader for a Cub Cadet garden tractor. I was hoping for a nice clean professional design by building steel lines which I can fix to the loader in places. Having only worked with small metal lines (Car Brake lines) with premade ends. I am not sure how hard this would be? The loader plans have it running off a 4-8gpm pump so the metal lines won't be that large (thinking about 3/8 inch or so).

Any thoughts would be great. I currently don't have flaring tools etc to make the ends.

Thanks

Do you have a decent hydraulic supply store in your area? They would have thetubing, fittings, tube bender, flaring tools,clamps etc. Parker and Aeroquip are two companies that have stores in this area where you can walk down the isles and look at the different fittings which sometimes help plan the job.

They would also have charts to help you size the tubing and get the correct wall thickness for the pressures you will be operating at.

Roy

 

[Egon]

You could also use fittings that do not require flaring.:thumbsup:

 

[BHD]

when I did my back hoe and loader, I used steel tubing and used JIC flares, I will suggest a Ridgid flare tool, JIC are 37 degree, I found a Ridgid 377 flare tool off of Ebay for about $30, a number of years ago, also got a bender for the steel tube, off of Ebay, and it turned out nice,

 

[/pine]

What make fittings did you use?

I could not find a brand name on any of the fittings...some were dark and and some where shiny...the shiny ones said "China" on them...

 

[kennyd]

Swagelok is one brand of flareless fitting. The HydraulicStore sells another type as well as tubing.

 

[Ford tractor]

Use good tubing. 3/8 is pretty easy to bend. Just sneak up on the final angle as it's easy to bend it a touch more and a real pain to try and unbend it!.

 

[mjncad]

I have an aluminum bender that does 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" steel tubing. 3/8" bends easy, 1/2" takes some grunt to get it done. I have the 370-FH Stride Tool Inc. - Imperial® Triple Head Tube Benders For Soft Copper, Aluminum and Thin-Walled Steel

As KennyD can attest; there are more different types of fittings than Carter has little liver pills. If you are using ORFS (O-Ring Face Seal) fittings, then brazing isn't too difficult; but you need an Oxy/Acetylene torch to do it right. I would think 3/8" and 1/4" tubing will be more than adequate.

Do you have a Parker Store near you? Until I become more confident with hydraulics to order online; the local Parker Store has been quite helpful.

Now if I can just find the time to get back on my steel lines project.

 

[workinprogress]

Thanks for all the suggestion. There is not much for hydraulic supply around me. I have had pretty good luck with a local truck repair shop buidling hoses and having fittings in stock but have not used them outside of this.

 

[joes_427_vette]

I found the 3/8" tubing very easy to bend. My local tube bending service sold me the lines flared with fittings for 45 bucks with tax. Those fittings ( JIC or similar name ) can get very expensive. By the time I had every line completed with the hydraulic hoses, coupler ends it was twice what I had figured. Sure makes a nice job though.

 

[Egon]

[QUOTEUse good tubing. 3/8 is pretty easy to bend. Just sneak up on the final angle as it's easy to bend it a touch more and a real pain to try and unbend it!.][/QUOTE]

Tubing comes in many material configurations and pressure/corrosion ratings.

Almost impossible to make any changes to a bend unless one just bends farther.

 

[Mace Canute]

Here's a site with some specs on tubing. I've heard that garden tractors don't have all that much pressure, one fellow said his had a working pressure of under 1000 psi. I'd be interested to see what various units do have for pressure and gpm flow...anybody want to post their GT hydraulic specs? Also, brake line might be a viable choice for you...just saying...
Team Tube Ltd.

 

[workinprogress]

The plans that I purchased were from PF Engineering (Loader Plans, CAD Plans, Build a Loader, Front End Loader ) and they talk about running the system around 1,000 psi at 4-8 GPM. Higher pressures than that will lift more weight than the little tractor can handle. Based on the plans and other forums I suspect the system will be running between 750 and 1,000 psi. As with everything I am trying to plan for multiple options. While I currently have a Garden tractor (2wd ) in the future I could see purchasing a small 4wd tractor. Therefore I am planning on building the loader to handle a little more so if I moved it to a small 4wd tractor it will still work. This could see the pressure a high as maybe 1,500 psi.

It seems like the steel lines fab shouldn't be to bad just have to keep track of the fittings. I didn't realize there was so many type of flares, fittings, and connections. Seems like the simiplest design is to keep with a 37 deg flares and the corrisponding JIC fittings but my head is still spinning with all the different types.

 

[mjncad]

It seems like the steel lines fab shouldn't be to bad just have to keep track of the fittings. I didn't realize there was so many type of flares, fittings, and connections. Seems like the simiplest design is to keep with a 37 deg flares and the corrisponding JIC fittings but my head is still spinning with all the different types.

Welcome to the world of hydraulics.

 

[D7E]

**** solid lines are the blight of my life . lost 3 days this week lifting cabs to access and replace them not to mention $180 for an 18 inch pipe. any chance i get they get replaced with hose ..far better for future maintenance .

 

[mjncad]

What happened D7E to cause you have such joyous fun?