Steel Hydraulic Lines for Loader - Hard to do?

mjncad · Jul 27, 2010

I have an aluminum bender that does 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" steel tubing. 3/8" bends easy, 1/2" takes some grunt to get it done. I have the 370-FH Stride Tool Inc. - Imperial® Triple Head Tube Benders For Soft Copper, Aluminum and Thin-Walled Steel

As KennyD can attest; there are more different types of fittings than Carter has little liver pills. If you are using ORFS (O-Ring Face Seal) fittings, then brazing isn't too difficult; but you need an Oxy/Acetylene torch to do it right. I would think 3/8" and 1/4" tubing will be more than adequate.

Do you have a Parker Store near you? Until I become more confident with hydraulics to order online; the local Parker Store has been quite helpful.

Now if I can just find the time to get back on my steel lines project.

workinprogress · Jul 27, 2010

Thanks for all the suggestion. There is not much for hydraulic supply around me. I have had pretty good luck with a local truck repair shop buidling hoses and having fittings in stock but have not used them outside of this.

joes_427_vette · Jul 31, 2010

I found the 3/8" tubing very easy to bend. My local tube bending service sold me the lines flared with fittings for 45 bucks with tax. Those fittings ( JIC or similar name ) can get very expensive. By the time I had every line completed with the hydraulic hoses, coupler ends it was twice what I had figured. Sure makes a nice job though.

Egon · Aug 1, 2010

[QUOTEUse good tubing. 3/8 is pretty easy to bend. Just sneak up on the final angle as it's easy to bend it a touch more and a real pain to try and unbend it!.][/QUOTE]

Tubing comes in many material configurations and pressure/corrosion ratings.

Almost impossible to make any changes to a bend unless one just bends farther.

Mace Canute · Aug 3, 2010

Here's a site with some specs on tubing. I've heard that garden tractors don't have all that much pressure, one fellow said his had a working pressure of under 1000 psi. I'd be interested to see what various units do have for pressure and gpm flow...anybody want to post their GT hydraulic specs?

Also, brake line might be a viable choice for you...just saying...
Team Tube Ltd.

workinprogress · Aug 3, 2010

The plans that I purchased were from PF Engineering (Loader Plans, CAD Plans, Build a Loader, Front End Loader ) and they talk about running the system around 1,000 psi at 4-8 GPM. Higher pressures than that will lift more weight than the little tractor can handle. Based on the plans and other forums I suspect the system will be running between 750 and 1,000 psi. As with everything I am trying to plan for multiple options. While I currently have a Garden tractor (2wd ) in the future I could see purchasing a small 4wd tractor. Therefore I am planning on building the loader to handle a little more so if I moved it to a small 4wd tractor it will still work. This could see the pressure a high as maybe 1,500 psi.

It seems like the steel lines fab shouldn't be to bad just have to keep track of the fittings. I didn't realize there was so many type of flares, fittings, and connections. Seems like the simiplest design is to keep with a 37 deg flares and the corrisponding JIC fittings but my head is still spinning with all the different types.

mjncad · Aug 4, 2010

workinprogress said:
It seems like the steel lines fab shouldn't be to bad just have to keep track of the fittings. I didn't realize there was so many type of flares, fittings, and connections. Seems like the simiplest design is to keep with a 37 deg flares and the corrisponding JIC fittings but my head is still spinning with all the different types.

Welcome to the world of hydraulics.

D7E · Aug 4, 2010

**** solid lines are the blight of my life . lost 3 days this week lifting cabs to access and replace them not to mention $180 for an 18 inch pipe. any chance i get they get replaced with hose ..far better for future maintenance .