At Home In The Woods

   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,701  
Use a deep box for the night light- it's a tight fit. The little one that cost 50 cents are a real tight fit. You might want to buy on of the lights at the box store now and be sure the size box you have is OK
Pete,
That's something I hadn't considered. Thanks.

Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,702  
Vinyl Soffit Question
When installing the vinyl soffits on the gable ends, one of the vinyl subs that we interviewed nails the J-channel into the brick. Is this a good installation practice?

Thanks in advance for your comments,
Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,703  
Vinyl Soffit Question
When installing the vinyl soffits on the gable ends, one of the vinyl subs that we interviewed nails the J-channel into the brick. Is this a good installation practice?

Thanks in advance for your comments,
Obed

I'm no expert in in this sort of thing but I don't think nailing into brick would ever be a good thing, too brittle. I would say get an electric hammer drill (I have a craftsman that works great and is a standard drill to boot) and mason bit to drill holes. Then use anchors. It won't take too much longer.

Russ
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,704  
nails will work screws will probably last longer. What does your brick mason say about nailing into the mortar joints of freshly laid brick? there maybe a cureing time...
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,705  
Like I said, I am no expert but I don't like the idea of nailing in to mortar either, to soft. I have had good luck using anchors in both brick and mortar.

Russ
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,706  
nails in brick and/or mortar? NO WAY . I rather use hammer drill with small concrete bit and use stainless steel tapcons. keep in mind that the stainless steel tapcons are rated to only go in 1 and 3/4's in the hole so its the perfect length for j channels and other outside products you need to attach. After all you are building a brick wall to last forever ?
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,707  
that brick is going to outlast the J channel. If he nails into it, I forsee lots of uncontrollable chips in the brick.

Is it a common practice to attach J channel to brick in residential building? I thought J channel was just used to install vinyl to hide the wood beneath it.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,708  
Brick To-Dos:

The end of the garage where the garage doors are needs brick.
Roll lock needs to be installed below some of the windows and doors and on top of the retaining walls.
Block and roll lock needs to be laid for the front porch.

This opening is for the cat door between the garage and the back porch.

The back porch was designed to be 1 foot too long. It will be 17 feet long by 12 feet deep. Beside the back porch will be a deck that is 12 feet wide. We have chosen Correct Deck composite decking. The decking comes in 12, 16, and 20 foot lengths. I really wish the house designer had designed the porch to be approx. 16 feet instead of 17 feet so we could have used 16 foot long decking boards in the porch with cutting it or without waste. The back porch roof will start where the eyebrow shown on the left in the picture ends. The other end of the porch will sit on top of the retaining wall. To change it now would require modifying the eyebrow shown in the picture and modifying the brick that is beside the eyebrow. So we're just going to bite the bullet and have some wasted decking material.
 

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   / At Home In The Woods #1,709  
Brick To-Dos:

The end of the garage where the garage doors are needs brick.
Roll lock needs to be installed below some of the windows and doors and on top of the retaining walls.
Block and roll lock needs to be laid for the front porch.

This opening is for the cat door between the garage and the back porch.

The back porch was designed to be 1 foot too long. It will be 17 feet long by 12 feet deep. Beside the back porch will be a deck that is 12 feet wide. We have chosen Correct Deck composite decking. The decking comes in 12, 16, and 20 foot lengths. I really wish the house designer had designed the porch to be approx. 16 feet instead of 17 feet so we could have used 16 foot long decking boards in the porch with cutting it or without waste. The back porch roof will start where the eyebrow shown on the left in the picture ends. The other end of the porch will sit on top of the retaining wall. To change it now would require modifying the eyebrow shown in the picture and modifying the brick that is beside the eyebrow. So we're just going to bite the bullet and have some wasted decking material.

Any reason not to make the deck longer with an uncovered portion? Seems like the deck could easily go all the way to the end of the house.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,710  
Nice cat door area:thumbsup:.

I constantly upset my house designer with dimension changes to reflect real world sizes, but didn't win all of those battles.

On your 17 vs 16, could you put a deck-rative boarder around 3 sides of the deck and use the 16' long pieces? If the cost of blocking around two of the edges (between the outside floor joists) was less than the cost of the long material, you'd be money ahead and have a nice feature. Hope that makes sense...

Pete
 

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