GC parking brake popped out! Damage pics.

[ray66v]

I forgot to mention this with all the stuff I have been dealing with lately. I asked the dealer about the 50 hr service on my old tractor,(when I was originally going to pick it up last week) if he had to drain anything out or should I just have it done at the 50 hr mark. He told me all they do is change the fuel filter, hydro filter, change the engine oil and filter, but just top off the front axle and hydro oil if need be. I asked why not change the hydro and axle?? He said it does not warrant that just to do at your next major service. I just looked at him and said "not on my tractor, I want it done like the manual states." Does anyone else do there service this way??

May manufacturers are apparently deciding that changing the hydo at 50 hrs, is unnecessary. I read discussions about Kubota eliminating this on some models last year.

Of course, some people will never accept this.

So, just like changing the oil in your car, you need to decide when.

I took out some really nice, clean, oil from my tractor, when I did my 50 as per the manual at the time.

I have been using that same oil in my fairway mower and it really likes it.

If I had it to do over, I would change it at 50. But, only because I switched to synthetic. Otherwise, I would not change it until 300.

Btw: Do your own maintenance. Oh wait, I forgot who I am addressing. Of course you will.

 

[dieselfreak]

May manufacturers are apparently deciding that changing the hydo at 50 hrs, is unnecessary. I read discussions about Kubota eliminating this on some models last year.

Of course, some people will never accept this.

So, just like changing the oil in your car, you need to decide when.

I took out some really nice, clean, oil from my tractor, when I did my 50 as per the manual at the time.

I have been using that same oil in my fairway mower and it really likes it.

If I had it to do over, I would change it at 50. But, only because I switched to synthetic. Otherwise, I would not change it until 300.

Btw: Do your own maintenance. Oh wait, I forgot who I am addressing. Of course you will.

What synthetic did you use?? Notice any differances??

df.

 

[tsteahr]

I forgot to mention this with all the stuff I have been dealing with lately. I asked the dealer about the 50 hr service on my old tractor,(when I was originally going to pick it up last week) if he had to drain anything out or should I just have it done at the 50 hr mark. He told me all they do is change the fuel filter, hydro filter, change the engine oil and filter, but just top off the front axle and hydro oil if need be. I asked why not change the hydro and axle?? He said it does not warrant that just to do at your next major service. I just looked at him and said "not on my tractor, I want it done like the manual states." Does anyone else do there service this way??

Wacky,

When I did the 50 hr on my GC a few weeks ago, the hydro oil and engine oil looked clean (as expected considering this oil is filtered). However the front axle oil was quite "sparkley" in when holding the drain pan in the sunlight. Lots of very tiny flakes suspended in the oil. The oil itself looked like new except for the sparkles.

On just a visual assessment of what drained into the pan, I think the most important fluid to change at 50 hrs is the axle fluid. I think the engine oil filter and the hydro oil filters trap most of the break-in junk, but the axle has no filter, hence the sparkles. I'm actually half considering giving the axle another drain and fill in a few hours just to rinse out any remaining residue of brake-in sparkles.

 

[mustangsallysdad]

Wacky,

When I did the 50 hr on my GC a few weeks ago, the hydro oil and engine oil looked clean (as expected considering this oil is filtered). However the front axle oil was quite "sparkley" in when holding the drain pan in the sunlight. Lots of very tiny flakes suspended in the oil. The oil itself looked like new except for the sparkles.

On just a visual assessment of what drained into the pan, I think the most important fluid to change at 50 hrs is the axle fluid. I think the engine oil filter and the hydro oil filters trap most of the break-in junk, but the axle has no filter, hence the sparkles. I'm actually half considering giving the axle another drain and fill in a few hours just to rinse out any remaining residue of brake-in sparkles.

I would find that normal (only fine particles, of course) considering the different base metals being used in the front axle, especially during the intial "break in" phase. I would consider switching the front axle oil over to the also recommended gear oil...you'll find it not as prone to heat up excessively and breach the front axle seals prematurely (no venting, so it will happen sooner than later). I believe the gear oil will provide more longevety simply due to the "cling and sling" lubrication it will provide. Just a little added insurance.

 

[ray66v]

What synthetic did you use?? Notice any differances??

df.

Amsoil ATH. Many of us are using it.

As with most synthetics, there is no difference, other than the price, until you get to either extremely hot, or extremely cold conditions.

When you look at the extremely long warm up times, the manual recommends in cold weather, I feel more comfortable with the synthetic oil.

 

[ray66v]

Wacky,
On just a visual assessment of what drained into the pan, I think the most important fluid to change at 50 hrs is the axle fluid. I think the engine oil filter and the hydro oil filters trap most of the break-in junk, but the axle has no filter, hence the sparkles. I'm actually half considering giving the axle another drain and fill in a few hours just to rinse out any remaining residue of brake-in sparkles.

As mustangsallysdad said, this is normal, and a certain amount of that is always going to be in there. Don't worry about it.

If you are going to change it again, don't use the hydraulic oil. Put in gear lube, with an EP designation. This gives the most protection. For a couple of bucks more, you can also get synthetic.

 

[ray66v]

I made a steep hill, and tested my 2310 parking brake, it held.

Your results may vary.

 

[Wacky]

I made a steep hill, and tested my 2310 parking brake, it held.

Your results may vary.

As this thread indicates :laughing::laughing:.

Besides the EP rating what weight would be good for all-year use. I would be concerned that in the winter the oil could be too thick to work properly. I would think it would take a long time to warm up, (if it does at all when the temps are way below freezing) with how slow the front axle turns.

 

[Wacky]

When you guys did your 50 hr, did you clean the strainer too? The one that you have to take off the wheel to get to.

 

[ray66v]

Yes, but I only know of one person who reported any debris on the screen.

Have you tested the parking brake on ver. 2.0 yet?