GC parking brake popped out! Damage pics.

[mustangsallysdad]

Well, if they are wet, can they even get glazed?

Good point.

 

[lilranch2001]

I tested my bobcats brakes tonight, after reading this thread.
I haven't had a chance to check the parking brake yet, but I was going to my neighbors and there is a 15-20% grade downhill, so I was running full throttle in high range, shoved in the clutch to disable the HST, and hit the brakes and it came to a full stop just like my truck would.

I really did not see any issue with the brakes on my CT235

I do wonder about the parking brake, since when you depress the brakes, and then engage the parking brake, the pedel does raise a little

I should have tried the parking brake on that hill

 

[MF RED in MT]

I also noticed it to "feel" like it engages better. Don't know why, maybe because I have been off of it for a while, or maybe they tightned it more than the previous one. Either way, I am a little gun-shy at using it at all.

Wacky, glad to hear you have a new tractor, :thumbsup:. I do think it is a poor business discipline of MF, :ashamed:, to allow your dealer to perform sub standard workmanship in repairing your tractor, and get away with it, . This poor workmanship cost you $2500 to put this incident behind you.

Just a thought about a better GC parking brake system:
Maybe MF could supply a red boat anchor and ten feet of chain attached to each tractor then and the tractor operator could just toss out the anchor going down hill and when the chain becomes tight, it would then be safe to get off of the tractor and place the recommended wheel chock at the tire. :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: KC

 

[rjmack]

posted by lilranch2001;

I tested my bobcats brakes tonight, after reading this thread.
I haven't had a chance to check the parking brake yet, but I was going to my neighbors and there is a 15-20% grade downhill, so I was running full throttle in high range, shoved in the clutch to disable the HST, and hit the brakes and it came to a full stop just like my truck would

can you make the rear wheels lock up with a heavy application?

i had a 43 year old mf2135, it had a sliding pin to lock the two brake pedals together (which i did), a heavy brake application would lock both rear wheels most of the time.

it worked really good.

i can't recall ever being able to lock the rear wheels on my 2410 using the brake pedal. in fact, it is so spongy that it never really bottoms out, it just very gradually firms up until i get scared to push any harder for fear of something failing.

Originally Posted by ray66v
Well, if they are wet, can they even get glazed?

whether or not they can get glazed is probably irrelevant, the fact is, they do sometimes squeal, and don't usually generate much braking force.

 

[ray66v]

At the bottom is another thread, where the discussion over brakes is concerning a John Deere model.

Post #12 shows photographic examples of heat damaged parts, in a wet brake system.

I have not yet read the entire thread.

Perhaps now it is safe to theorize this is more than a just a MF problem. Although, I am sure someone will disagree with me.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/148846-jd-2210-brake-failure-2.html

 

[rjmack]

good link:thumbsup:

looks like john deere has some braking issues to deal with as well... maybe they all do.

i think the statement that "This is not a stopping brake it is a a parking brake." refers to the lack of effectiveness of the john deere design, not the intended usage. if you think about it, it's ridiculous to claim that a brake is only to be used once the vehicle is stopped (hydro or not), especially when that is the only brake on the machine.

then again, there is the one post where the owner claims that his tractor with wet brakes will lock the rear wheels in a panic stop.

the point i am trying to make, and i think somebody pointed it out previously, is that dealing strictly with the park brake option doesn't do justice to the real problem. if the brakes worked better you wouldn't have to put so much pressure on the pedal and the locking cog wouldn't have to hold back so much force.

 

[lilranch2001]

]can you make the rear wheels lock up with a heavy application?[/COLOR]
i had a 43 year old mf2135, it had a sliding pin to lock the two brake pedals together (which i did), a heavy brake application would lock both rear wheels most of the time.

it worked really good.

i can't recall ever being able to lock the rear wheels on my 2410 using the brake pedal. in fact, it is so spongy that it never really bottoms out, it just very gradually firms up until i get scared to push any harder for fear of something failing.



whether or not they can get glazed is probably irrelevant, the fact is, they do sometimes squeal, and don't usually generate much braking force.

I dont think it locked up, but I only tried it once, and I am not sure if I put enough pressure on the pedels to lock them up, I was just trying to see if it would stop on the hill with brake force instead of HST braking

 

[Wacky]

At the bottom is another thread, where the discussion over brakes is concerning a John Deere model.

Post #12 shows photographic examples of heat damaged parts, in a wet brake system.

I have not yet read the entire thread.

Perhaps now it is safe to theorize this is more than a just a MF problem. Although, I am sure someone will disagree with me.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/148846-jd-2210-brake-failure-2.html

I think that the set up may be almost identical to the MF brake, maybe someone could verify that. The one thing that is concerning, is the size of that brake disc. Although there are many, it looks as if it works like a clutch would. I don't know for sure that is just what it looks like to me.

 

[Wacky]

I forgot to mention this with all the stuff I have been dealing with lately. I asked the dealer about the 50 hr service on my old tractor,(when I was originally going to pick it up last week) if he had to drain anything out or should I just have it done at the 50 hr mark. He told me all they do is change the fuel filter, hydro filter, change the engine oil and filter, but just top off the front axle and hydro oil if need be. I asked why not change the hydro and axle?? He said it does not warrant that just to do at your next major service. I just looked at him and said "not on my tractor, I want it done like the manual states." Does anyone else do there service this way??

 

[hawkeye08]

We bought our Kubota used a few weeks ago. The previous owner had done all the maintenance on schedule and had the dealer do the 50, 200 and 400 hr. Most of the items are checked off in the maintenance schedule. He even had the fuel costs, etc logged. Something like $6.44 per hour to operate, counting all the services and fuel. He even logged the hrs when he greased it.